Tank stand 2x4 and bottom holes?

[Johnd651]

So I was wondering, I will be building a 36 x 42" tank, and will be building a custom stand into the room that I jut finished sheetrocking. The plan was to have 3 holes drilled into the bottom on the center of the 36" side. The holes are 1.77" for 1 inch bulkheads. But they look like the edge of the bulkhead will be about an inch from the edge of the glass. With a 2x4 being 1.5 inches wide, what is the norm? Move the holes in further towards the center of the tank? Or do you frame around the opening holes? Or do you notch into the 2x4s?

 

[Big G]

Bump

 

[Johnd651]

Pics added of tank dimensions

 

[Johnd651]

any ideas?

 

[lmm1967]

are you building the tank? Is it rimless?

The dimensions show that the holes are 1.77", the overflow box is 5.28" (5.28-1.77)/2 = 1.755. That is pretty close to working for the hole - the problem is the flange nut is wider than the hole - as drawn you will not have the clearance you need.

I would not compromise the 2x4 - I would move the holes inward enough to avoid the supports of the stand. Keep in mind you're going to want to be able to install / remove that bulkhead while the tank is in position on the stand.

 

[count krunk]

Have you considered an overflow that drains thru the back of the tank vs bottom? This requires the tank to be like 5" off the wall

 

[Johnd651]

are you building the tank? Is it rimless?

The dimensions show that the holes are 1.77", the overflow box is 5.28" (5.28-1.77)/2 = 1.755. That is pretty close to working for the hole - the problem is the flange nut is wider than the hole - as drawn you will not have the clearance you need.

I would not compromise the 2x4 - I would move the holes inward enough to avoid the supports of the stand. Keep in mind you're going to want to be able to install / remove that bulkhead while the tank is in position on the stand.

That is the drawing from SCA, rimless with euro bracing. There dimensions are why I started wondering about the 2x4s.

 

[Johnd651]

Have you considered an overflow that drains thru the back of the tank vs bottom? This requires the tank to be like 5" off the wall

Im not against it, but am going in a corner with it, and have only a couple inches of wiggle room. Plus the bottom drain would be cleaner since you would always see the pipes from the one side.

 

[lmm1967]

Thats roughly 120 gallons - have you considered making your stand out of 3/4" plywood? Stronger than 2X4s, lighter and less space taken up.

You need to be able to cut pretty accurately and assemble it square - as long as you can do that a plywood built stand will be superior for your situation IMO.

 

[ca1ore]

The general guidelines for grinding holes in glass is to not put them any closer to an edge than the diameter of the hole. That should give you a bit more than an inch of clearance. Either way, just build the stand slightly deeper (front to back). Notching dimensional lumber is not a good idea. You'll presumably have cross supports and a plywood deck so plenty of strength. You could also use plywood as your rear beam. It would only be 3/4" thick and stronger in the horizontal dimension than 2x4 anyhow. I use sistered plywood as my horizontal beams in all my stands these days.

 

[Johnd651]

Thats roughly 120 gallons - have you considered making your stand out of 3/4" plywood? Stronger than 2X4s, lighter and less space taken up.

You need to be able to cut pretty accurately and assemble it square - as long as you can do that a plywood built stand will be superior for your situation IMO.

Don't laugh... but I suck at cutting a straight line. I actually am really good at framing, and building with lumber, but straight line across a big sheet... I can't do it. (I usually employ my wife for those cuts.)

Ill have to search for plywood stand plans. My original plan was too build the stand similar to the wood plans floating around online, but make it a little thicker (two 2x6s sandwiched together for the top), put 3/4 ply on top and bottom, and then trim it out to match the room I am currently sheetrocking with flat and crown trim. It would look like the tank has a little 1x4 finished stand around it.

 

[Johnd651]

I can always ask about moving the holes in another few inches, and see what the tank builders say. I am not against it, just was really curious now that Ive gotten this far into the planning stages.

 

[Johnd651]

The general guidelines for grinding holes in glass is to not put them any closer to an edge than the diameter of the hole. That should give you a bit more than an inch of clearance. Either way, just build the stand slightly deeper (front to back). Notching dimensional lumber is not a good idea. You'll presumably have cross supports and a plywood deck so plenty of strength. You could also use plywood as your rear beam. It would only be 3/4" thick and stronger in the horizontal dimension than 2x4 anyhow. I use sistered plywood as my horizontal beams in all my stands these days.

So that entire top is all plywood sitting on top of 2x4 dimensional posts and bottom? Very interesting. That changes my approach a bunch. Height plan is going to be between 36 and 42 inches tall as well.

 

[ca1ore]

So that entire top is all plywood sitting on top of 2x4 dimensional posts and bottom? Very interesting. That changes my approach a bunch. Height plan is going to be between 36 and 42 inches tall as well.

Yes. Stand was for a VERY LARGE tank though; that's why the horizontal plywood 'beams' are 8". You lose stand access with them that deep but since all my equipment is in the basement no biggie. For a smaller tank you could drop width down in the front but keep it in the back.

 

[Johnd651]

Yes. Stand was for a VERY LARGE tank though; that's why the horizontal plywood 'beams' are 8". You lose stand access with them that deep but since all my equipment is in the basement no biggie. For a smaller tank you could drop width down in the front but keep it in the back.

Whats the min ply height? Part of my reason for such a tall stand (36-42in) is so I can fit a 40B sump under the tank, and possibly 10gal QT plus other ATO water/dosing containers. With a 42" stand I could probably easily do a 4 or 6" high plywood, even on the front. Also, how is that all assembled on top? The ply looks to be sitting on the edges of most of the dimensional, but what about the corners (never mind - your getting the 1.5inch dimensional by sistering two 3/4). Glue? Fasteners? Nails?

 

[WVNed]

Since you are going to have a full top under the tank I don't think notching the 2x4 there would be a problem or use a higher quality piece of dimensional lumber there 1 inch thick accross the back of the stand.

 

[ca1ore]

Whats the min ply height? Part of my reason for such a tall stand (36-42in) is so I can fit a 40B sump under the tank, and possibly 10gal QT plus other ATO water/dosing containers. With a 42" stand I could probably easily do a 4 or 6" high plywood, even on the front. Also, how is that all assembled on top? The ply looks to be sitting on the edges of most of the dimensional, but what about the corners (never mind - your getting the 1.5inch dimensional by sistering two 3/4). Glue? Fasteners? Nails?

HaHa ….. assumes I remember exactly what I did. 6" depth on the plywood 'beams' will be more than enough. Did 8" on my 450. Corner legs are triple sistered 2x4s - Plywood rests on top of the outside two 2x4s but then an inside one goes up higher so the face of the ply can be screwed into the leg. I glued and screwed the two pieces of plywood together to get my DiY micro lam and then ripped the 8" widths on my table saw. That way i get a perfectly flat top. I'm a charter member of overbuilders anonymous, so don't laugh at how overbuilt the stand is LOL.

Check out my build on the monster tank forum here at R2R - I think there are some other pictures at the start of that thread.

 

[cthedaytrader]

Is it being custom built? Have you considered not having an internal overflow and just having them drill the tank for an external overflow, and after market one like modular marine or whatever brand you prefer? Saves you space in the tank and the drains then come out behind the stand.

Another option if space allows for an external or internal is to made the stand wider so the drains clear the 2x4s

 

[Johnd651]

Is it being custom built? Have you considered not having an internal overflow and just having them drill the tank for an external overflow, and after market one like modular marine or whatever brand you prefer? Saves you space in the tank and the drains then come out behind the stand.

Another option if space allows for an external or internal is to made the stand wider so the drains clear the 2x4s

Yes it will be a custom. I will ask to see if they will drill it more towards the center. I dont mind back overflow, but in this case the tank will sit in a corner so i dont want it to far from the wall.

 

[Johnd651]

HaHa ….. assumes I remember exactly what I did. 6" depth on the plywood 'beams' will be more than enough. Did 8" on my 450. Corner legs are triple sistered 2x4s - Plywood rests on top of the outside two 2x4s but then an inside one goes up higher so the face of the ply can be screwed into the leg. I glued and screwed the two pieces of plywood together to get my DiY micro lam and then ripped the 8" widths on my table saw. That way i get a perfectly flat top. I'm a charter member of overbuilders anonymous, so don't laugh at how overbuilt the stand is LOL.

Check out my build on the monster tank forum here at R2R - I think there are some other pictures at the start of that thread.

Oh... your build is now a bookmark.