Tank stand open front question

[D_Reep1106]

Hey all, couldn’t figure out how to title it better but there you go.

my question is about the front beam on my future 300 stand. I’m getting a 10x2x2 300 gallon tank. The sump is 8x2x2 so I would like to keep the 8ft open on the front of the stand. would 3-4 2x8’s on end support the weight of the front without middle braces? Now I could add braces in 2ft in on one Ed if I’ll help but I would like where the sump will sit to be open. Not to mention it’s the same
Depth as the display so I don’t want to have to build out the front of the stand.

 

[Ron Reefman]

As I see it, the issue is not the weight at the ends of the stand but the 10' or 8' span's ability to carry the weight and not sag. That are you going to use as a cross member at the top of the front opening?

I had a 12' stand with a 180g and a 75g both sitting on it. I used two 2x8 that were glued and screwed together as a beam across the top of the front opening. I also had a center brace that was attached, but in a pinch, if I had to remove it, it could be done without much trouble. But I also designed the stand so the entire sump could be removed out the end of the stand if necessary.

I also added a set of short plywood walls around the base which I covered with a shower pan liner from Home Depot. That kept spills off the floor and bottom of the stand. I also added a bulkhead to the liner and ran a drain line out through the wall into the backyard in case of a serious overflow.

I did 2 sliding doors on the front. Originally they were thin plywood. But I eventually switched to a double layer of Formica laminate glued back to back in 2 different colors. So I could flip them over and go from blue doors to light gray doors. The bottom trim on the stand also got a string of led lights just for fun.

 

[D_Reep1106]

As I see it, the issue is not the weight at the ends of the stand but the 10' or 8' span's ability to carry the weight and not sag. That are you going to use as a cross member at the top of the front opening?

I had a 12' stand with a 180g and a 75g both sitting on it. I used two 2x8 that were glued and screwed together as a beam across the top of the front opening. I also had a center brace that was attached, but in a pinch, if I had to remove it, it could be done without much trouble. But I also designed the stand so the entire sump could be removed out the end of the stand if necessary.

I also added a set of short plywood walls around the base which I covered with a shower pan liner from Home Depot. That kept spills off the floor and bottom of the stand. I also added a bulkhead to the liner and ran a drain line out through the wall into the backyard in case of a serious overflow.

I did 2 sliding doors on the front. Originally they were thin plywood. But I eventually switched to a double layer of Formica laminate glued back to back in 2 different colors. So I could flip them over and go from blue doors to light gray doors. The bottom trim on the stand also got a string of led lights just for fun.

I’m wanting to use 3 2x6’s glued and screwed together on the front top brace As a beam to span the 8ft opening. That’s my question if it will hold the 300. Basically trying to build a 10ft version of what you have without the brace in the middle and the tank goes end to end

 

[Ron Reefman]

I think three 2x6's will be fine over an 8' or 10' span.

Will you have doors of some kind on the front?

I did another stand and used a smaller beam. I was worried about the sag. So I measured the gap from bottom 2x4 to the top 2x4 and cut a 2x4 brace 1/8" longer. I then used a floor jack to lift the stand by the top beam, wedged and hammered the 2x4 vertical brace into place and set the stand back down. That brace never moved except when I took it out to change the sump/refugium. Then I put it back in place.

 

[D_Reep1106]

I think three 2x6's will be fine over an 8' or 10' span.

Will you have doors of some kind on the front?

I did another stand and used a smaller beam. I was worried about the sag. So I measured the gap from bottom 2x4 to the top 2x4 and cut a 2x4 brace 1/8" longer. I then used a floor jack to lift the stand by the top beam, wedged and hammered the 2x4 vertical brace into place and set the stand back down. That brace never moved except when I took it out to change the sump/refugium. Then I put it back in place.

No doors or anything. I am leaving it completely open. Its for a garage system so I would rather have the access than the look.