Tank structure
- Thread starter Puffer Lover
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KrisReef
10K Club member
1993 is almost 30 years old. Silicone seals seem to fail over time and the newer tank should have more life expectancy going forward then a 30 yo tank, and possibly have zero scratches where an old tank usually comes with a few.
If both tanks were new then I would get the tank with thicker glass. If one of the tanks has starfire (clearer, or less green tint inside the glass) then I would prefer the starfire tank if they were the same age, but I would lean towards the new tank if all these things are equal. The glass in both tanks is thick enough to avoid a lot of distortion in the glass (bowing).
A new tank is a beautiful thing, the bracing in modern tanks allows more light penetration which is why newer reef tanks are made without the central brace.
The new tank should have a warranty but check with the manufacturer to find out if they do and look online to see if the new tank and manufacturer have a good reputation, or not.
When a tank does fail the problem is not if the manufacturer will replace the tank but rather who is going to pay for the damage and livestock losses that result from the flood in your house?
If both tanks were new then I would get the tank with thicker glass. If one of the tanks has starfire (clearer, or less green tint inside the glass) then I would prefer the starfire tank if they were the same age, but I would lean towards the new tank if all these things are equal. The glass in both tanks is thick enough to avoid a lot of distortion in the glass (bowing).
A new tank is a beautiful thing, the bracing in modern tanks allows more light penetration which is why newer reef tanks are made without the central brace.
The new tank should have a warranty but check with the manufacturer to find out if they do and look online to see if the new tank and manufacturer have a good reputation, or not.
When a tank does fail the problem is not if the manufacturer will replace the tank but rather who is going to pay for the damage and livestock losses that result from the flood in your house?
Puffer Lover
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The new tank is an Aqueon with two braces whereas the old one only has one directly in the center. What about resealing the older tank?
mrlavalamp
Well-Known Member
Go with the newer tank.
A standard resealing is cosmetic more than it is structural.
A full knock down and rebuild would be needed to "renew" the life of the older tank to even start to compete with the new tank.
A re-seal is no small task but doable for the above average hobbyist (a tank this size gets tricky though especially alone, the silicone skins too quickly).
A full rebuild on a tank this large is a massive task and requires tools and skills most do not posses, I wouldn't recommend it at all.
A standard resealing is cosmetic more than it is structural.
A full knock down and rebuild would be needed to "renew" the life of the older tank to even start to compete with the new tank.
A re-seal is no small task but doable for the above average hobbyist (a tank this size gets tricky though especially alone, the silicone skins too quickly).
A full rebuild on a tank this large is a massive task and requires tools and skills most do not posses, I wouldn't recommend it at all.
Puffer Lover
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Thank you for your input. I appreciate it!
Puffer Lover
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Thank you for your input. I was under the impression that leaks dealt with the interior seals. Personally, I thought it was at the glass joints, which sounds like what you’re talking about. In all honesty, other than the bottom, the sides look like the tank was never even filled with water and looks new. I remeasured and the sides are half inch. I don’t plan on a rebuild whatsoever, just a reseal. Do you still think the tank is compromised? Thank you and I don’t mean to sound redundant, just at a loss. The old tank weighs much, much more than the newer and came on a steel stand. Maybe it’s the older style look than for support but I’m not sure.
davidcalgary29
2500 Club Member
Do a water test on that old tank! Ask that the vendor fill it with (fresh) water, throw in some oolite, and check for seam incursions. Fine sand will contrast much better with seams (in incursions) than water.
mrlavalamp
Well-Known Member
The very small amount of silicone that is actually between the panes of glass is the primary structural adhesive force that keeps these glass boxes together. The layer is very thin and should have NO air bubbles between the sheets of glass.
The silicone on the interior corners is to protect the primary silicone by keeping everything away (sand, water, scraping tools etc.).
I have resealed a 120 gallon. After doing it I would never reseal a tank that size again. The time investment, the elbow grease, the costs of the silicone and cleaning materials. I had to do it twice too because the first time it skinned too fast so the second time I got a helper (who I also had to teach to do it correctly).
I promise you resealing a large tanks is much harder than it looks on youtube.
This is just my opinion but the old tank is not worth resealing, and it is a big risk to trust your setup to 30 year old silicone with a questionable past. Things might be different if there were fewer unknowns in the tanks history, but I dont trust it myself (especially if you think the tank was dry for a period of time).
I look at it this way: You are making a decision that could cost you a few hundred dollars either way you go (reseal vs. buying the new tank), but what follows this decision is THOUSANDS of dollars invested in livestock.
Dont risk thousands of dollars trying to save a couple hundred
