Tank Transfer Method

So am I supposed to be making new salt water in every new tub? with no bacteria added?
 
The short answer is ‘Yes,’ so try to use the smallest tanks possible for the fish. Ideally you will have a Seachem ammonia badge to keep an eye on any rising ammonia, but of course before that becomes a real problem the fish should be on to the next tank. One time (for very a small fish) I even used three of those old fashion 2 gallon goldfish bowls lined up in a row, and just kept the fish moving every couple of days (‘hopscotch’) and repeated the process for the necessary total number of days.
 
Hey guys I was wondering if someone could really help any replies would be highly appreciated! So I'm about to start doing the Ttm for Velvet everythings ready I just had a few questions which if possibly answered could really help me,
First question, can I do the the 36 hours any less then 36 hours for example 35 or 34 or less if so how much less?
Question two, near the end it says to do transfer at 71 hours for good measure as opposed to 72, now I like to do my transfers an hour before the time given so does this mean I should transfer the fish at 70 hours because it says 71 hours for 'good measure' or 71 hours as that's already taking good measure. I'm sorry if I've sounded confusing at any point Thank you for your pateince and your time for reading this if anybody can help would really help.
 
Hey guys I was wondering if someone could really help any replies would be highly appreciated! So I'm about to start doing the Ttm for Velvet everythings ready I just had a few questions which if possibly answered could really help me,
First question, can I do the the 36 hours any less then 36 hours for example 35 or 34 or less if so how much less?
Question two, near the end it says to do transfer at 71 hours for good measure as opposed to 72, now I like to do my transfers an hour before the time given so does this mean I should transfer the fish at 70 hours because it says 71 hours for 'good measure' or 71 hours as that's already taking good measure. I'm sorry if I've sounded confusing at any point Thank you for your pateince and your time for reading this if anybody can help would really help.
TTM isn't recommended for velvet as far as I know. It's mainly for ich. If you're doing it for ich, the answer to your questions would yes and yes.
 
Thanks for your reply!, but why is it not recommended? Has any one ever tried it? What's their results been like? I can't seem to find any documented experience of someone trying this but the science and information seems to be out there on the Internet and sounds very logical.
 
TTM sticky updated with new information for eliminating velvet:

Tank Transfer Method For Velvet

Below is a TTM schedule which will eliminate both Ich & velvet:

Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours

^^ No chemicals (such as H2O2) required.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.

The "standard" 72 hour transfer (or 71 hours for good measure) can resume only near the tail end, once the threat of velvet is gone and you are just concerned about the possibility of Ich (which can remain on the fish for a longer duration - 7 days).

The above TTM schedule was once just a theory of mine, but has now been successfully tested multiple times! :)
What are “transfers” ?
 
Are all of the transfers to different tanks so I would need 7 tanks
No. You only need 2 tanks. 2 heaters, 2 powerheads or whatever you choose to make water movement. Plus pvc pipes for hiding. I used 2 10 gallon tanks. You have to clean and let the other tank and equipment dry after each transfer. I usually just rinse the tank and equipment with scalding hot water then let it dry.
 
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The most minimalist way (easiest?) if the fish are small: Those cheap glass goldfish bowls. If you get 3, one can always be clean and dried as you leap-frog the fish along every 2 days and stay one step ahead of the ich.
 
Thanks for your reply!, but why is it not recommended? Has any one ever tried it? What's their results been like? I can't seem to find any documented experience of someone trying this but the science and information seems to be out there on the Internet and sounds very logical.
It is not recommended for velvet because it's ineffective for velvet. The parasite reproduces much faster, nullifying the benefits of TTM. Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate are your best options, and if it's in your display tanks, treat all fish and leave the tank fishless for 76 days.
 
It is not recommended for velvet because it's ineffective for velvet. The parasite reproduces much faster, nullifying the benefits of TTM. Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate are your best options, and if it's in your display tanks, treat all fish and leave the tank fishless for 76 days.
@Humblefish method said it was good for velvet and ich if I read it correctly with the most updated methods? Am I wrong?
 
@Humblefish method said it was good for velvet and ich if I read it correctly with the most updated methods? Am I wrong?
Agree. The updated steps intend to cover velvet as well.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.
 
Agree. The updated steps intend to cover velvet as well.

Basis: Assuming worst case scenario, and velvet trophonts stop dropping off a fish immediately after going into a tank, you have around 48 hours until the tomonts begin releasing free swimmers (that reinfect the fish). So, a 36 hour transfer moves the fish away from the threat before this can happen. However, velvet trophonts can also remain on a fish for as long as 96 hours so that is why you have to do more than one transfer @ 36 hours.
Agreed, this is why I would follow humblefish method exactly as outlined. I also trust 4fordfamily so that's my dilemma. Getting quality CP is near impossible now. And I'd rather not use meds if it can be avoided, that's a big if though as I'd still need to treat for worms, etc...
 
@Humblefish method said it was good for velvet and ich if I read it correctly with the most updated methods? Am I wrong?
I have seen that protocol recently, it MAY work. The hybrid version with H202 is more interesting to me, however.

Personally, I wouldn't try it without H202 for velvet, but that's me. I've seen how virulent velvet can be, and how some strains seem to behave very differently.
 
It's the only thread about the process. Has anyone else actually tried it and been successful? Seeing as how h2o2 is tough to find right now might be an issue but I was thinking of trying this on my 4 fish when they go to the big tank, they were never qt'd when I got them and have been mostly problem free for 3+ years. My blenny gets bloated
 
If you are a 10’ apart guy (ultra careful) I guesss I’d stay that way (lol), unless lids do the trick for you. As to the second question, ‘yes’... as long as you move the fish along together / at the same time— as a group. I think you will like the TTM. Best wishes.
 

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