Tank Transfer Method

I would like to suggest an alternate version of the Transfer Method

Don't you have concern over aerosol transmission by having all 5 tanks up and running the entire time?

Nevermind... just saw Humblefish addressed that concern.
 
ALL the fish must be removed from a DT in order to starve ich out.

Are you saying you want to do hyposalinity in your DT with the firefish still in there? To avoid having to catch them? That may or may not work, but all corals/inverts will need to be removed beforehand as they will die in hypo conditions.
No...not hyposalinity...using a product called HyperCure to kill ich in swimming stage...it won't harm inverts...and also you are saying that the fire fish need to be removed whether they show any signs of ich or not...
 
Those one gallon containers work just fine for up to two small 1" fish. Another good size are 10 gallon aquariums side by side and you can go as big as required. I've traditionally used five 10 gallon aquariums for fish up to about 5". I've had 100 percent success with this over the last 10 years with about 30 new arrivals and 8 in an advanced Cryptocaryon infection stage.

Regarding aerosol transmission: I've always had them side by side and even with open tops at times and if aerosol transmission were a real problem this would not work. Thus in my opinion there's nothing to worry about here.

I invite everyone to try it as well to see for yourself and let us know.
Regards
 
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Those one gallon containers work just fine for up to two small 1" fish. Another good size are 10 gallon aquariums side by side and you can go as big as required. I've traditionally used five 10 gallon aquariums for fish up to about 5". I've had 100 percent success with this over the last 10 years with about 30 new arrivals and 8 in an advanced Cryptocaryon infection stage.

Regarding aerosol transmission: I've always had them side by side and even with open tops at times and if aerosol transmission were a real problem this would not work. Thus in my opinion there's nothing to worry about here.

I invite everyone to try it as well to see for yourself and let us know.
Regards
Thank you and welcome to Reef2Reef...you've helped already although its not what I'm going to do...:)
 
Regarding aerosol transmission: I've always had them side by side and even with open tops at times and if aerosol transmission were a real problem this would not work. Thus in my opinion there's nothing to worry about here.

And if it is a concern, it is one that could be solved by blowing a fan across them to force any water vapor away from the other tanks.
 
And if it is a concern, it is one that could be solved by blowing a fan across them to force any water vapor away from the other tanks.
It seems to me that if the droplets are evaporation...its like distilling...should be pure although its obviously not all evaporation...so I guess my point is pointless...:rolleyes:
 
No...not hyposalinity...using a product called HyperCure to kill ich in swimming stage...it won't harm inverts...and also you are saying that the fire fish need to be removed whether they show any signs of ich or not...

This stuff is garbage: http://sicceus.com/fish_health.html

Yes, you will need to remove all the firefish (and treat them) in order for your fallow period to be successful. And as someone who has had to catch firefish in a tank full of rock, I fully understand the PITA this is going to be. o_O I've had some luck catching them using the bottle trap:

plasticbottleinstructions.jpg
 
Made the following adjustments to the sticky, to help wrasses and other prazi sensitive species:
However, you do have the option of dosing Prazipro (if you need to deworm) at the tail end of transfers 2 & 4 (or 1 & 3). The fish only needs 24 hours of exposure time to Prazipro, so dose 24 hours before you are set to make the next transfer. A second round of Prazipro is required 5-7 days after the first, but again dose the medication 24 hours before you are set to transfer the fish out. Just remember if you do this that you can't use any ammonia reducers while Prazi is present in the water.
 
One last note on the Transfer Method II would be to make sure you appropriately acclimate your fish when going from the last quarantine aquarium to your main display or to your main quarantine, where temperature and salinity might be different. Thus keep in mind the five quarantine aquariums should be exactly the same set up and original source water to have the same parameters.
 
Hi

I have two questions:

In the Transfer Method, the water of each tank is new or it is possible to use water from the main tank ???
It is necessary to acclimate the fish every time you change of tank?


Thanks
 
In the Transfer Method, the water of each tank is new or it is possible to use water from the main tank ???

Water from your DT is fine so long as it is disease-free. And don't purposely suck out any gunk (i.e. vacuum the sand) if you plan on using the water for TTM. ;)

It is necessary to acclimate the fish every time you change of tank?

So long as temp & SG match between the two tanks, there is no need to acclimate.
 
Thanks it is very helpful for me since I am in the planning process of transferring my live stocks to larger tank.
 
Has anyone used tap water with a dechlorinator instead of rodi? Our city is jacking up water rates. A lot.

It's possible to do, but not recommended. Can you use distilled water instead?
 
Has anyone used tap water with a dechlorinator instead of rodi? Our city is jacking up water rates. A lot.
If you don't use a booster pump for your RODI system this might be a good reason to invest in one. Not only will it make water faster, but it will reduce the amount of waste water generated.
 
wow, I need to start consider investing a booster pump for my rodi.
 
wow, I need to start consider investing a booster pump for my rodi.
off topic but a booster made a huge difference for me, my city water pressure is only 35psi, the pump boosted it to nearly 100 and my production water rate went from maybe 2 gph to over 5. This resulted in my flooding my basement storage room a few times...
 
off topic but a booster made a huge difference for me, my city water pressure is only 35psi, the pump boosted it to nearly 100 and my production water rate went from maybe 2 gph to over 5. This resulted in my flooding my basement storage room a few times...
I should be more careful. Some days I feel like I am better at derailing threads than providing the necessary information! :confused:
 
Thank you for warning. This is why I keep holding it off.
 

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