Tank Transfer Method

I'm curious with the amount of velvet I have seen pop up on r2r lately would this still be your prophylactic treatment ? Or would it just be wise to start rite off with copper ?

For what it's worth, it's my treatment plan still as well. I always try to start off with TTM and watch the fish closely the entire time.
 
For what it's worth, it's my treatment plan still as well. I always try to start off with TTM and watch the fish closely the entire time.

+1 I believe velvet will start to die down soon, as the wholesalers are finally taking this threat seriously and actually doing something about it.
 
I'm continuing to gather my supplies to quarantine my fish. I'm wondering if I would need to worry about ammonia build up in 5 gallon containers/tanks if I only have two small (less than 1.25") fish in them during the TTM?

If ammonia is a concern, would I be better off getting 10g tanks or just using and throwing away a couple of Marine Pure spheres that have sat in my main tank for a while? The main tank is a 60g Cube that has been cycling (dry rock, live sand and a raw shrimp) for 31 days now.

I'm thinking I might setup a 10g "full time" quarantine to transfer the fish into after the final TTM cycle.
 
I'm continuing to gather my supplies to quarantine my fish. I'm wondering if I would need to worry about ammonia build up in 5 gallon containers/tanks if I only have two small (less than 1.25") fish in them during the TTM?

If ammonia is a concern, would I be better off getting 10g tanks or just using and throwing away a couple of Marine Pure spheres that have sat in my main tank for a while? The main tank is a 60g Cube that has been cycling (dry rock, live sand and a raw shrimp) for 31 days now.

I'm thinking I might setup a 10g "full time" quarantine to transfer the fish into after the final TTM cycle.
Ammonia shouldn't be a problem with just a few small fish however if your just doing a ttm and not treating anything else or medicating the water if you do have any ammonia show up you can use prime at 2 drops per gallon to bind it this dose can be doubled if needed but I highly doubt you will see any nh3
 
Ammonia shouldn't be a problem with just a few small fish however if your just doing a ttm and not treating anything else or medicating the water if you do have any ammonia show up you can use prime at 2 drops per gallon to bind it this dose can be doubled if needed but I highly doubt you will see any nh3

Thanks, that is what I thought but wanted to just double check.
 
New to all this so a few questions: Will TTM work with fish that already have signs of Ick or is it better to treat with medication?
Can you do a fresh water dip in between stages in TTM ?
 
New to all this so a few questions: Will TTM work with fish that already have signs of Ick or is it better to treat with medication?
Can you do a fresh water dip in between stages in TTM ?

TTM is fantastic for ich. You will see rapid improvement in the fish over the course of the first and second transfers, and the fish will likely look good by the third transfer.

Naturally, you need to complete all transfers for the fish to be ich free.
 
TTM is fantastic for ich. You will see rapid improvement in the fish over the course of the first and second transfers, and the fish will likely look good by the third transfer.

Naturally, you need to complete all transfers for the fish to be ich free.

agreed 100%
 
TTM worked great for me 18 months ago, and now I have an Emperor Snapper in QT who quickly became covered. So its time for TTM once more. Question... once I complete TTM, is it safe to go straight into DT? I was going to leave my QT up for a couple of small clowns that aren't infected (and will hopefully stay that way).
 
TTM worked great for me 18 months ago, and now I have an Emperor Snapper in QT who quickly became covered. So its time for TTM once more. Question... once I complete TTM, is it safe to go straight into DT? I was going to leave my QT up for a couple of small clowns that aren't infected (and will hopefully stay that way).

I would observe for at least 2 weeks, post TTM, before adding the fish to your DT. Especially since "covered" can in fact mean you are dealing with velvet.
 
Thanks again @Humblefish. I don't want him back in QT since it is now infected, so was going to let it go fallow. Maybe I'll just keep TTM'ing a few extra rounds.
 
Thanks again @Humblefish. I don't want him back in QT since it is now infected, so was going to let it go fallow. Maybe I'll just keep TTM'ing a few extra rounds.
The only reason I would do more than 1 extra transfer is if you needed to for ammonia.
 
Finally decided to eradicate Ich from my DT and start the TTM. My yellow tang is an Ich magnet. My biggest concern is that I only have two 20 gallon tanks to do this with and 5 fish (yellow tang, 2 small clowns, flame angel and sand sifting goby) to quarantine. On Monday, I set up the first tank and seeded the HOB filter with stability. Tuesday I moved everyone over. I monitored the ammonia every 4-6 hours to make sure the levels didn't rise and performed a 25% WC on the tank after about 48 hours. Thankfully ammonia never became a problem and I moved everyone over to a new tank tonight. The final transfer will be to a 40 breeder until they can go back into the display.
 
Finally decided to eradicate Ich from my DT and start the TTM. My yellow tang is an Ich magnet. My biggest concern is that I only have two 20 gallon tanks to do this with and 5 fish (yellow tang, 2 small clowns, flame angel and sand sifting goby) to quarantine. On Monday, I set up the first tank and seeded the HOB filter with stability. Tuesday I moved everyone over. I monitored the ammonia every 4-6 hours to make sure the levels didn't rise and performed a 25% WC on the tank after about 48 hours. Thankfully ammonia never became a problem and I moved everyone over to a new tank tonight. The final transfer will be to a 40 breeder until they can go back into the display.
Great plan!
 
Finally decided to eradicate Ich from my DT and start the TTM. My yellow tang is an Ich magnet. My biggest concern is that I only have two 20 gallon tanks to do this with and 5 fish (yellow tang, 2 small clowns, flame angel and sand sifting goby) to quarantine. On Monday, I set up the first tank and seeded the HOB filter with stability. Tuesday I moved everyone over. I monitored the ammonia every 4-6 hours to make sure the levels didn't rise and performed a 25% WC on the tank after about 48 hours. Thankfully ammonia never became a problem and I moved everyone over to a new tank tonight. The final transfer will be to a 40 breeder until they can go back into the display.
Just make sure you leave it fallow for long enough
 
Day 12 and my Emperor Snapper is looking great!! I use two identical setups of Hefty 29 qt containers with lid, Tetra Whisper 2-10i filters, and basic hard set 78 degree heaters. I do water change on my DT (fish have been ich-free and spotless in that tank for 18 months), and use 5g of that water for each round of TTM. Follow the perfect directions at beginning of this thread. Sure, he's a little cramped in 5g, but its only for two weeks and after all, it is sick bay.


Now to run my bullet goby through the same.
 
If I use the ttm method, do I still need to do fallow for the original tank before I put the fish back in the same ick tank they came from?
 
The thing that confuses me about ttm is that you won't really have any nitrifing bacteria in the tank? If you are sterilizing everything after each transfer no real time to get a cycled tank?
 

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