Tank Transfer Method

[Be102]

I would start with brand new water. You can transfer free swimmers from your DT to TTM tank 1.

Hi HotRocks,

I am thinking about starting this soon and was just wondering if I would have any sort of problems considering I can’t seed anything for the TTM cause I have ich in my display tank. Would this be detrimental for the time the fish are spending the 72 hours in the water with just new saltwater and no biological filtration? Also thinking the same for when I have my “hospital tank” set up that houses the clown fish whilst I am going fallow for 76 on my display tank. Should I just worry about getting a little bottle of bacteria for the hospital tank and not really stress the water quality during the TtM?

Also can you clarify something regarding people “ using disposable air stones” do they just replace the tubing and the actual stone at the end and that is adequate? I don’t neeed to have a second airstone pump and setup, correct? I just don’t want to transfer the ich through contamination.

 

[Brew12]

Would this be detrimental for the time the fish are spending the 72 hours in the water with just new saltwater and no biological filtration?

Yup, no bio filter needed, they aren't in the water long enough for it to produce dangerous amounts of ammonia during TTM.

Also thinking the same for when I have my “hospital tank” set up that houses the clown fish whilst I am going fallow for 76 on my display tank. Should I just worry about getting a little bottle of bacteria for the hospital tank and not really stress the water quality during the TtM?

Bottle bacteria is how I always set up a QT system. Biospira is my go-to. It has worked well for me and is readily available at my local Petco.

Also can you clarify something regarding people “ using disposable air stones” do they just replace the tubing and the actual stone at the end and that is adequate?

Yes, you can use the same air pump, just replace the tubing and air stones.

 

[Be102]

Yup, no bio filter needed, they aren't in the water long enough for it to produce dangerous amounts of ammonia during TTM.


Bottle bacteria is how I always set up a QT system. Biospira is my go-to. It has worked well for me and is readily available at my local Petco.


Yes, you can use the same air pump, just replace the tubing and air stones.

Am I overthinking the process?

Remove fish from display tank in bucket
Bring downstairs to 5 gallon bucket with air stone and heater already set up.
Let them stay there for under 72 hours
Put them in a new bucket or saltwater (can I make this near the bucket already with the fish in it?) the basement is where my Rodi equipment is and would just make the saltwater down there
Remove fish using colander and put into second bucket
Dispose of first bucket water
Repeat the process till the time is up?


Should I go about trying to treat them with any other medicine even tho I am unsure if they are sick with anything? Is that cruel? I just am unsure of any signs of anything’s else but could be oblivious and am unsure if it would be hazardous for them, even if they potentially didn’t have anything? I just want to really be sure to have everything clean and sterile so the fallow period doesn’t happen for nothing.

 

[lapin]

I will start off with saying Im not a big fan of copper unless it has to be done. What I do with new fish while doing the TTM is dose Prazi 2x during the process. With this last batch which included 2 wrasse I also treated with MetroPlex.

 

[Brew12]

Am I overthinking the process?

Remove fish from display tank in bucket
Bring downstairs to 5 gallon bucket with air stone and heater already set up.
Let them stay there for under 72 hours
Put them in a new bucket or saltwater (can I make this near the bucket already with the fish in it?) the basement is where my Rodi equipment is and would just make the saltwater down there
Remove fish using colander and put into second bucket
Dispose of first bucket water
Repeat the process till the time is up?


Should I go about trying to treat them with any other medicine even tho I am unsure if they are sick with anything? Is that cruel? I just am unsure of any signs of anything’s else but could be oblivious and am unsure if it would be hazardous for them, even if they potentially didn’t have anything? I just want to really be sure to have everything clean and sterile so the fallow period doesn’t happen for nothing.

You will want to dump some bleach in the first bucket to disinfect it and then let it dry. It is a best practice to keep the buckets 10 ft apart but if you have to have them closer it likely won't be a problem unless they are side by side.

 

[Be102]

You will want to dump some bleach in the first bucket to disinfect it and then let it dry. It is a best practice to keep the buckets 10 ft apart but if you have to have them closer it likely won't be a problem unless they are side by side.

Hi Brew,
Can I make a large batch of saltwater as I would normally and keep it in the bucket and just use that as new salt water for my tank transfer method? So say make 20 gallons of water and transfer it out as I need it? This might just be a basic reefing question but I just usually make my salt and then do a water change all in the same time span. Just seems easier to do this rather than make 4 different 5 gallon batches. ( I will
Be doing the ttm in a couple 5 Gallon buckets)

 

[Brew12]

Hi Brew,
Can I make a large batch of saltwater as I would normally and keep it in the bucket and just use that as new salt water for my tank transfer method? So say make 20 gallons of water and transfer it out as I need it? This might just be a basic reefing question but I just usually make my salt and then do a water change all in the same time span. Just seems easier to do this rather than make 4 different 5 gallon batches. ( I will
Be doing the ttm in a couple 5 Gallon buckets)

Yup, that is a very good way of doing it. That way you know that the fish isn't going to be having to deal with different salinities during each transfer.

 

[Dondante]

Ok. It appears the female of my bonded pair of expensive clowns that were introduced into DT 3 weeks ago show sign of ich. Spots. No itching/scratching on rocks etc or loss of appetite. In fact they are doing better every day socializing etc. Also in DT are a Bi-Color Blenny who was the last introduced and may be the culprit alothough he has zero spots and healthy and active as can be. And 3 Green Chromis who were first inhabitants 2 months ago. One MAY have a spot on his tailfin .I'll know more tommorow .

Question is what should I do? DT has inverts and corals.

Should I pull them and treat or use TTM?

I'm headed to buy two identical 10 gallon tanks tomorrow .

I will never not QT again .I kept saying I was going to do it and never did .I'm really ticked at myself.

What method should I use?

 

[spiritwalker]

Ok. It appears a bonded pair of expensive clowns that were introduced into DT 3 weeks ago show sign of ich. Spots. No itching/scratching on rocks etc or loss of appetite. In fact they are doing better every day socializing etc. Also in DT are a Bi-Color Blenny who was the last introduced and may be the culprit alothough he has zero spots and healthy and active as can be. And 3 Green Chromis who were first inhabitants 2 months ago. One MAY have a spot on his tailfin .I'll know more tommorow .

Question is what should I do? DT has inverts and corals.

Should I pull them and treat or use TTM?

I'm headed to buy two identical 10 gallon tanks tomorrow .

I will never not QT again .I kept saying I was going to do it and never did .I'm really ****** at myself.

What method should I use?

TTM will work as will 30 or so days with copper treatment. Whichever method you choose your tank will need to be fish free for like 76 days or so to ensure the ich life cycle runs its course.

 

[Dondante]

Yeah. Definitely doing the 72. This sucks .I just came back to the Hobby .I knew better.

I'm just trying to figure out the least stressful way for my Bonded Clowns .The Blenny and Chromis can do either with no problems. The Clowns just seem to be so strange and a little more delicate .

What would you do if fish are eating and not showing signs of stress etc? TTM?

 

[spiritwalker]

Yeah. Definitely doing the 72. This sucks .I just came back to the Hobby .I knew better.

I'm just trying to figure out the least stressful way for my Bonded Clowns .The Blenny and Chromis can do either with no problems. The Clowns just seem to be so strange and a little more delicate .

What would you do if fish are eating and not showing signs of stress etc? TTM?

If they appear healthy and eating I'd probably ttm and be prepared to treat with copper if symptoms worsen.

 

[Dondante]

Thanks, I'll try and grab a pic of the fish tommorow after I pick up some 10 gallon tanks .

 

[Dondante]

Ok she seems to have more spots but still eating very well. I think I have settled on doing 14 days of cupramine( It's the only thing I could have delivered Sunday. No lfs carries anything locally) and then 14 days in a clean tank. I need to start this Sunday. I will find my containers needed Saturday and set it all up and be prepared to transfer the fish Sunday.

How should I go about cycling the QT tank? I can't use anything from the DT where the issue is or can I for the 1st 14 day tank? I have socks and sponges I can use from DT. I can then set up the second tank a few days later with a bottle of Dr Tim's I have?


Thanks in advance.

 

[Brew12]

Ok she seems to have more spots but still eating very well. I think I have settled on doing 14 days of cupramine( It's the only thing I could have delivered Sunday. No lfs carries anything locally) and then 14 days in a clean tank. I need to start this Sunday. I will find my containers needed Saturday and set it all up and be prepared to transfer the fish Sunday.

How should I go about cycling the QT tank? I can't use anything from the DT where the issue is or can I for the 1st 14 day tank? I have socks and sponges I can use from DT. I can then set up the second tank a few days later with a bottle of Dr Tim's I have?


Thanks in advance.

You can set up the first QT with stuff from the DT so no problems with your plan.

 

[Geebs19]

I currently have 2 clowns and and watchman goby that were exposed to ich that I want to do the TTM. I just ordered a one spot foxface and 2 randalls gobys that I want to do TTM as well after a few days of observation. I was wanting to use 5 gallon buckets, should I run 2 5 gallon buckets at the same time to split the fish up due to the amount of room?

 

[Brew12]

I currently have 2 clowns and and watchman goby that were exposed to ich that I want to do the TTM. I just ordered a one spot foxface and 2 randalls gobys that I want to do TTM as well after a few days of observation. I was wanting to use 5 gallon buckets, should I run 2 5 gallon buckets at the same time to split the fish up due to the amount of room?

I would recommend that. Even full of water that isn't much volume for 6 fish.

 

[Geebs19]

I would recommend that. Even full of water that isn't much volume for 6 fish.

Decided to qt the new fish I got today and run the existing 3 through ttm and then once they are in the last 72 get the new 3 into their first 72 hours so I can sterilize the qt tank.

 

[HomeSlizzice]

I have a newly proposed TTM method idea that should work for Velvet, Ich, Flukes, etc... from what I have read about velvet, and all the other stickies in this forum so far.

I came across these two videos on YouTube from a guy running the TTM on his new clowns. His TTM system seems really easy and effective. Take a look:
How To Do a Quarantine Water Change - Tank Transfer Method:

My New Clownfish And Quarantine Setup. He is showing his TTM set up in detail:

Basically for keeping the temp stable and not needing to use a bunch of heaters, he is using a larger tank for holding the heater, and simply resting the smaller tanks in it and swapping them out as needed.

So after some more reading and research; I wanted to see everyone's opinion on if you think it will work for all the major parasites/diseases, especially velvet. I really am trying to find a good way around using copper of some sort as you can tell haha.

NEW QT Quarantine Tank / TTM Tank Transfer Method procedure:

Day 1 - Methylene Blue 30 min bath, Fish in tank.
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 24-36 hours, and add API General Cure to TTM QT (API GC suggested dose is every 48 hours, Humblefish recommended 5-7 days)
Day 3 - 2nd transfer at 24-36 hours, Fresh Water dip, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 4 - 3rd transfer at 24-36 hours, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 5 - 4th transfer at 24-36 hours, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 6 - 5th transfer at 24-36 hours, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 7 - 6th transfer at 24-36 hours, add API General Cure to TTM QT (API GC suggested dose is every 48 hours, Humblefish recommended 5-7 days)
Day 8 - 7th transfer at 24-36 hours, add Seachem Prime (Velvet should be gone)
Day 9 - Nothing, check ammonia
Day 10 - 8th transfer at 48 hours, add Seachem Prime
Day 11 - Nothing, check ammonia
Day 12 - 9th transfer at 48 hours, add Seachem Prime
Day 13 - Nothing, check ammonia
Day 14 - 10th transfer a 48 hours, move to 20G Long QT
Day 15 to 29 - Observe and keep normally in 20G Long QT until day 30
Day 30 - Now if there are no signs of disease, release into display.

Would the 15 day observation period be totally necessary for anything other than to give the fish a bit of a break before going into the display?

Compared to Humblefish's proposed velvet TTM which gave me the inspiration for my post a while ago. Thank you btw:
Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours That protocol should eliminate both ich & velvet.


Equipment for TTM:
3 - 4x Clear Home Depot Storage Bins to rotate to allow them to dry for 48 hours
1x Large Storage Bin that can hold the smaller Storage Bins
1x Heater and small powerhead to circulate water in large bin
3 - 4x Identical PVC elbows/T's for hiding to rotate to allow them to dry for 48 hours
Multiple Airstones w/ airlines and an air pump to rotate to allow them to dry for 48 hours

Equipment for QT observation post TTM:
1x 20G Long or 29G Tank
1x Heater
1x glass thermometer
PVC elbows/T's for hiding
1x Seachem Ammonia Alert badges
1x Airstones w/ airlines and airpump.
1x HOBSeachem Tidal Filter 55

Thoughts?

 

[DLHDesign]

One thing I've noticed while doing TTM is that the transfers are pretty stressful on the fish (and me; but mostly the fish). With some species, it can take about a day for the fish to settle in and start eating again after each move. And that's without any meds in the water. If you were to add medications that are potentially appetite suppressing into the mix, I'm not sure how well that would do. Might be fine, but having the fish eating well is often more important than having them medicated.
One strength of TTM is that it's relatively gentle on the fish. I wouldn't say the same is true of the above alternative due to all the medications mixed in.

In terms of the bins; it's a nice idea, for sure. I would be worried about the QT tank water getting into the bath water a bit, but this can likely be avoided with care. I've never found the sanitation of tanks and gear to be all that difficult (it's mostly just "rinse with vinegar water and let dry"), but I can see how this could make it even easier.

 

[Brew12]

I have a newly proposed TTM method idea that should work for Velvet, Ich, Flukes, etc... from what I have read about velvet, and all the other stickies in this forum so far.

I came across these two videos on YouTube from a guy running the TTM on his new clowns. His TTM system seems really easy and effective. Take a look:
How To Do a Quarantine Water Change - Tank Transfer Method:

My New Clownfish And Quarantine Setup. He is showing his TTM set up in detail:

Basically for keeping the temp stable and not needing to use a bunch of heaters, he is using a larger tank for holding the heater, and simply resting the smaller tanks in it and swapping them out as needed.

So after some more reading and research; I wanted to see everyone's opinion on if you think it will work for all the major parasites/diseases, especially velvet. I really am trying to find a good way around using copper of some sort as you can tell haha.

NEW QT Quarantine Tank / TTM Tank Transfer Method procedure:

Day 1 - Methylene Blue 30 min bath, Fish in tank.
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 24-36 hours, and add API General Cure to TTM QT (API GC suggested dose is every 48 hours, Humblefish recommended 5-7 days)
Day 3 - 2nd transfer at 24-36 hours, Fresh Water dip, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 4 - 3rd transfer at 24-36 hours, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 5 - 4th transfer at 24-36 hours, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 6 - 5th transfer at 24-36 hours, add Rally to TTM QT (suggested dose of Rally is every day for at least 3 days)
Day 7 - 6th transfer at 24-36 hours, add API General Cure to TTM QT (API GC suggested dose is every 48 hours, Humblefish recommended 5-7 days)
Day 8 - 7th transfer at 24-36 hours, add Seachem Prime (Velvet should be gone)
Day 9 - Nothing, check ammonia
Day 10 - 8th transfer at 48 hours, add Seachem Prime
Day 11 - Nothing, check ammonia
Day 12 - 9th transfer at 48 hours, add Seachem Prime
Day 13 - Nothing, check ammonia
Day 14 - 10th transfer a 48 hours, move to 20G Long QT
Day 15 to 29 - Observe and keep normally in 20G Long QT until day 30
Day 30 - Now if there are no signs of disease, release into display.

Would the 15 day observation period be totally necessary for anything other than to give the fish a bit of a break before going into the display?

Compared to Humblefish's proposed velvet TTM which gave me the inspiration for my post a while ago. Thank you btw:
Day 1 - fish in tank
Day 2 - 1st transfer at 36 hours
Day 4 - 2nd transfer at 36 hours
Day 5 - 3rd transfer at 36 hours
Day 7 - 4th transfer at 36 hours
Day 10 - 5th transfer at 71 hours
Day 13 - 6th transfer at 71 hours That protocol should eliminate both ich & velvet.


Equipment for TTM:
3 - 4x Clear Home Depot Storage Bins to rotate to allow them to dry for 48 hours
1x Large Storage Bin that can hold the smaller Storage Bins
1x Heater and small powerhead to circulate water in large bin
3 - 4x Identical PVC elbows/T's for hiding to rotate to allow them to dry for 48 hours
Multiple Airstones w/ airlines and an air pump to rotate to allow them to dry for 48 hours

Equipment for QT observation post TTM:
1x 20G Long or 29G Tank
1x Heater
1x glass thermometer
PVC elbows/T's for hiding
1x Seachem Ammonia Alert badges
1x Airstones w/ airlines and airpump.
1x HOBSeachem Tidal Filter 55

Thoughts?

I'd want to figure out how to add Metroplex between the GC dosing. Uronema seems to be more common lately and I'd want the extra protection from it.