Tank update @ 4months. Suggestions, thoughts criticism all welcome

mcgallagherc

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4 months update

48"x24×24" first tank
Set up professionally by guy who cares for 500 gallon tank at work (he comes by maybe once a month if I need him)
2 older used light bars that came with set up
Protein skimmer

Water params iver checked with salifert today:
Alk-8.6
Nitrate-5-15
Phosphate-0?
Calcium-380
Water temp not 100% but set to 78
Don't know Salinity or any other params

2 orange storm clowns
Midas blenny
Cardinal fish
Firefish
Longnose butterfly

1 green torch looks amazing
1 torch I F'd up and bleached with too much light and high location in tank(its struggling)
1 hammer coral that isn't extending out or looking great
2 mushroom rocks
2 zoa frags(1 looks good and 2nd smaller one had cyano? On it, just blew it off and cleaner whatever else I saw
Blasto colony- maybe 6 heads
1 RBTA(looked great at first but since has not been expanding and flowing) understand I'm told it's a new tank but guy who set it up put it in for me.
Numerous small hermits and snails
1 bristle starfish
1 cleaner shrimp
1 arrow crab

pics no particular order but yoy can tell from newer to most recent

Any advice or constructive criticism is welcome, no need to bash anyone.

Thanks and hope everyone mKes it a great night

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Forgot to mention, also have carbon bag in sock filter in sump.

Plan to keep LPS (mostly "flowy" coral) and fish. No SPS desired as of now

Also my guy is ordering me 2 xr15s latest model through his vendor.

I run 1 MP40 that will not connect with mobius app. Keep it on reef crest around 30-40%
 
Everything seems good , I would have something to check salinity. I would just let things thrive and no need to change anything unless you have an issue arise.
Phosphate is good at 0. Typically you only will read it in the .0 or .00 if it’s good. Calcium could be a little higher. I try for 420-450

i always am checking pH because I run a co2 scrubber.
salinity, and temp.

other than that, I only test all parameters every few weeks or month unless I see an issue. My tank is about 4-5 months old and I’m running LPS and softies and nems. I wouldn’t recommend my strategy with SPS Dominant

i water change 10-20% every 1-2 weeks. Sometimes I go a month, I do notice better coral growth since I left everything alone more and just did my water changes here and there
 
Everything seems good , I would have something to check salinity. I would just let things thrive and no need to change anything unless you have an issue arise.
Phosphate is good at 0. Typically you only will read it in the .0 or .00 if it’s good. Calcium could be a little higher. I try for 420-450

i always am checking pH because I run a co2 scrubber.
salinity, and temp.

other than that, I only test all parameters every few weeks or month unless I see an issue. My tank is about 4-5 months old and I’m running LPS and softies and nems. I wouldn’t recommend my strategy with SPS Dominant

i water change 10-20% every 1-2 weeks. Sometimes I go a month, I do notice better coral growth since I left everything alone more and just did my water changes here and there
I've yet to do a water change. I read about some people here not doing them at all, less is better for me with hours I work. I'll get a thermometer to keep eye on water temp. I'm In South alabama and have 2 very large windows in front of house not far from tank.

Need to look into checking Salinity. My friend who does this for a living and has own shop stopped by hooked up skinmer and checked my water 2 weeks week and said all was good. I just like 2nd, 3rd, and 4th opinions being green to this hobby. Afraid I'll hose something up.

Don't plan on keeping SPS so all good there

Thanks
 
Everything seems good , I would have something to check salinity. I would just let things thrive and no need to change anything unless you have an issue arise.
Phosphate is good at 0. Typically you only will read it in the .0 or .00 if it’s good. Calcium could be a little higher. I try for 420-450

i always am checking pH because I run a co2 scrubber.
salinity, and temp.

other than that, I only test all parameters every few weeks or month unless I see an issue. My tank is about 4-5 months old and I’m running LPS and softies and nems. I wouldn’t recommend my strategy with SPS Dominant

i water change 10-20% every 1-2 weeks. Sometimes I go a month, I do notice better coral growth since I left everything alone more and just did my water changes here and there
Also, i will ask my personal reference for raising calcium but I have no clue. Your opinion is appreciated
 
How about starting a build thread. You can either copy your post here to start it or add any pics of just starting.
 
You would just copy your first post, and paste in the start of your build thread. You can go back and copy additional info you wanted to share. Also, if you have word, just copy all of your posts at the start of this thread, then copy all of it over to a new build thread. I've also been known to have 2 windows of R2R open in order to copy from one thread to another.
Is there a way to copy whole post and make a build thread?
 
I've never seen guidance suggest that "0" phosphate is a good thing. I've seen plenty of anecdotal evidence suggesting it isn't.

Generally, 0.02-0.05 should be the lowest you want to push it. Go too low and your coral will start to suffer -- like my zoas that are currently melting and SPS that are currently pale with poor PE from stripping phosphate (and in the SPS case, running too much alk for the nutrient level)
 
I've never seen guidance suggest that "0" phosphate is a good thing. I've seen plenty of anecdotal evidence suggesting it isn't.

Generally, 0.02-0.05 should be the lowest you want to push it. Go too low and your coral will start to suffer.
Again, tested using salifert kits. I do have a few corals not doing well but have a couple that look great
 
Everything seems good , I would have something to check salinity. I would just let things thrive and no need to change anything unless you have an issue arise.
Phosphate is good at 0. Typically you only will read it in the .0 or .00 if it’s good. Calcium could be a little higher. I try for 420-450

i always am checking pH because I run a co2 scrubber.
salinity, and temp.

other than that, I only test all parameters every few weeks or month unless I see an issue. My tank is about 4-5 months old and I’m running LPS and softies and nems. I wouldn’t recommend my strategy with SPS Dominant

i water change 10-20% every 1-2 weeks. Sometimes I go a month, I do notice better coral growth since I left everything alone more and just did my water changes here and there


Phosphate is not good at zero. That's arguable worse than high phosphate as corals need some and dinos often correlate with 0.00

Also the ocean calcium levels are about that so its fine if OP keeps it there
 
Phosphate is not good at zero. That's arguable worse than high phosphate as corals need some and dinos often correlate with 0.00

Also the ocean calcium levels are about that so its fine if OP keeps it there
Dinos and cyano have appeared. What is solution to raising phosphate?
 
Dinos and cyano have appeared. What is solution to raising phosphate?


You can feed more (this will raise nitrate too), or you can dose phosphate. Dosing is easier. Taking into account the error range in test kits, 0.03-0.1 is my preferred safe range, ideally closer to the lower value. Phosphate is the only thing commonly tested, other than salinity and arguably pH, that needs to be within such a small range
 
Again, tested using salifert kits. I do have a few corals not doing well but have a couple that look great

So at best, you know the PO4 level is < 0.03. Which is still pretty low. Those are "ULNS" numbers for SPS tanks. LPS tanks can handle quite a bit more. Even up to 0.1 ppm (with 10-15 ppm NO3) if you're not having nuisance green algae issues.

Don't hesitate to feed more (the easiest way to increase PO4 if you're not looking for strict level control). Those struggling corals might be starving. Or you could dose something like Neophos or trisodium phosphate if you'd rather dose.
 
So at best, you know the PO4 level is < 0.03. Which is still pretty low. Those are "ULNS" numbers for SPS tanks. LPS tanks can handle quite a bit more.

Don't hesitate to feed more (the easiest way to increase PO4 if you're not looking for strict level control). Those struggling corals might be starving. Or you could dose something like Neophos or trisodium phosphate if you'd rather dose.
I feed 1 frozen cube spirulina mysis at night. Twice a day maybe?
 
I feed 1 frozen cube spirulina mysis at night. Twice a day maybe?

Are you just feeding spirulina? If so, you need some diversity. It's the best way to ensure the health of your inhabitants. I'd add a quality pellet to the mix, at a minimum. And those LPS will absolutely eat meaty foods if you target feed.

I might go a bit overboard compared to most, but my philosophy is that by providing food diversity, I guarantee that everything gets the needed nutrition.

I feed a standard mix twice a day (10 am, 7 pm):
1. Aquaforest Liquid Artemia
2. Aquaforest Liquid Mysis
3. Aquaforest Liquid Vege
4. Aquaforest Plankton Elixir
5. 1 drop Aquaforest Fish V (vitamins)

In addition:
In the mornings, I add New Life Spectrum marine pellets
In the evenings, I add Aquaforest Tiny fish feed pellets

I also hang a credit-card sized piece of nori in the tank on Sundays -- alternating red and green.

Lastly, I feed a Marine Fusion cube twice a week (has chunks of clam, squid, mussels), and soak the standard morning mix in garlic elixir 3x a week. I'm also I'm waiting on a bag of Avast Marine Reef Jerky freeze-dried food to arrive that I'll work into the schedule.


And that's not including the 6 different types of food (and various amino acids and other things) I add just for coral and microfauna (mostly an hour after lights-out, 10pm).
 
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Are you just feeding spirulina? If so, you need some diversity. It's the best way to ensure the health of your inhabitants. I'd add a quality pellet to the mix, at a minimum. And those LPS will absolutely eat meaty foods if you target feed.

I might go a bit overboard compared to most, but my philosophy is that by providing food diversity, I guarantee that everything gets the needed nutrition.

I feed a standard mix twice a day (10 am, 7 pm):
1. Aquaforest Liquid Artemia
2. Aquaforest Liquid Mysis
3. Aquaforest Liquid Vege
4. Aquaforest Plankton Elixir
5. 1 drop Aquaforest Fish V (vitamins)

In addition:
In the mornings, I add New Life Spectrum marine pellets
In the evenings, I add Aquaforest Tiny fish feed pellets

I also hang a credit-card sized piece of nori in the tank on Sundays -- alternating red and green.

Lastly, I feed a Marine Fusion cube twice a week (has chunks of clam, squid, mussels), and soak the standard morning mix in garlic elixir 3x a week. I'm also I'm waiting on a bag of Avast Marine Reef Jerky freeze-dried food to arrive that I'll work into the schedule.


And that's not including the 6 different types of food (and various amino acids and other things) I add just for coral and microfauna (mostly an hour after lights-out, 10pm).

Are you just feeding spirulina? If so, you need some diversity. It's the best way to ensure the health of your inhabitants. I'd add a quality pellet to the mix, at a minimum. And those LPS will absolutely eat meaty foods if you target feed.

I might go a bit overboard compared to most, but my philosophy is that by providing food diversity, I guarantee that everything gets the needed nutrition.

I feed a standard mix twice a day (10 am, 7 pm):
1. Aquaforest Liquid Artemia
2. Aquaforest Liquid Mysis
3. Aquaforest Liquid Vege
4. Aquaforest Plankton Elixir
5. 1 drop Aquaforest Fish V (vitamins)

In addition:
In the mornings, I add New Life Spectrum marine pellets
In the evenings, I add Aquaforest Tiny fish feed pellets

I also hang a credit-card sized piece of nori in the tank on Sundays -- alternating red and green.

Lastly, I feed a Marine Fusion cube twice a week (has chunks of clam, squid, mussels), and soak the standard morning mix in garlic elixir 3x a week. I'm also I'm waiting on a bag of Avast Marine Reef Jerky freeze-dried food to arrive that I'll work into the schedule.


And that's not including the 6 different types of food (and various amino acids and other things) I add just for coral and microfauna (mostly an hour after lights-out, 10pm).
3 different foods I feed
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I dose neophos 2x's a day as my po4 keeps bottoming out. I also will add a pinch or 2 of spirilina and reef roids--not feeding corals, just adding a bit to the water. I mix 5-6 cubes of various frozen in a condiment container and feed 2x's a day with various pellets that I rotate once a day or every other day. The container usually lasts 2 day. I also add coral food to it a couple times a week as well as dried mysis. I also dose AB+ reef fuel. My no is 15-25 so I dose nyos zero/bio booster as well so I can feed heavier. Oh, 15 ml nopox a day
 
While I'll agree that 0 phosphates is not good, using the salifert test you really don't know if that 0 is a true 0. It could very well be anywhere between 0 and 0.02(margin of error in the salifert test). Anything above 0, but below 0.2 is fine, never run 0 its a recipe for dino's .

If you want a better method of testing phosphates that is a more reliable number, try a Hanna ULR phosphorous test.

Calcium a little low, but nothing to worry over(nominal values are typically around 420).

I might mix in a little more variety in my food, but I think your fine with what your feeding(might want to try PE calanus, or just plain PE mysis), LRS is great food( I might feed that more often then the others), and for the love of your fish, DO NOT USE GARLIC!! While it's great to get finicky fish eating, it should not be used long term as it has been shown to show significant liver damage.

I personally think your doing fine, just need to tighten up the parameters a bit, and mix in a little more variety in your food(might want to try a decent pellet too, like TDO Chromo-boost).
 

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