Tank Upgrade - Equipment and Fish?

[lexrose]

Hello,

Around the holidays, I plan on picking up a Redsea Reefer 525 (112 gal display and 31 gal sump) and wanted to get some input as to what fish you recommend and what equipment is a must have.

I currently have a 75 gallon setup with a canister and HOB filter on it so I am looking forward to something with a sump. I currently have a CBA, foxface, 2 clownfish, orchid dottyback, Midas, lawnmower blenny, 2 chromis, carpenters fairy wrasse, wheeler watchmen goby paired with a pistol shrimp, some blue legged crabs, and some softies / lps coral. I am getting some more rock in the next few days. I am checking out FB marketplace and other places for secondhand equipment but don’t know what else I should be looking out for. A skimmer is next on my list.

Thanks to all in advance for your input!
Fellow reefer

 

[fishski13]

With the increase in size would definitely look into a more powerful heater set up, probably lights as it is an extra foot longer, maybe powerheads depending on what you already have, cant forget a return pump.

 

[Jedi1199]

Hello,

Around the holidays, I plan on picking up a Redsea Reefer 525 (112 gal display and 31 gal sump) and wanted to get some input as to what fish you recommend and what equipment is a must have.

I currently have a 75 gallon setup with a canister and HOB filter on it so I am looking forward to something with a sump. I currently have a CBA, foxface, 2 clownfish, orchid dottyback, Midas, lawnmower blenny, 2 chromis, carpenters fairy wrasse, wheeler watchmen goby paired with a pistol shrimp, some blue legged crabs, and some softies / lps coral. I am getting some more rock in the next few days. I am checking out FB marketplace and other places for secondhand equipment but don’t know what else I should be looking out for. A skimmer is next on my list.

Thanks to all in advance for your input!
Fellow reefer

With the increase in size would definitely look into a more powerful heater set up, probably lights as it is an extra foot longer, maybe powerheads depending on what you already have, cant forget a return pump.

Get a 2nd heater of same size. When you go larger, 2 smaller heaters are better than a single large one (plus they fit in the sump better). I found a 350w heater from Fluval heats my 135g tank just fine all on its own. I have a 2nd one for a backup set 2* lower than the main one. My heaters are also both digital so I can dial in exactly the temp I want without fiddling with the knob.

For a return pump, I like these...

Compact, adjustable, inexpensive and quiet. I use 2 on my tank because I have dual returns.


For flow generators, I would use what you have at the start. You may or may not need anything extra. Same with lights. Depending on what you use now, you may or may not need to upgrade there.

I recently upgraded a very similar setup to what you are planning. Feel free to check out my build thread. The canister filter was awesome to clean out the dust from the new tank once I filled it up. It was 90% clear within 24 hours.

Build Thread - My new 135 build!!

As many of you know, I have a 55g mixed reef tank that I have been running for about 16 months. This is an exceptionally beautiful tank, and I am so very proud of what I have accomplished with it so far! Unfortunately, as my experience and knowledge has increased, so has my desire to add...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Jedi1199]

Since you are getting new rock soon, now is a great time to get it prepped for the new build which is a few months away.

Get a 20g brute can and toss the rocks in (If you are planning a negative space sculpture, build it first) then fill the can with water from your display on water change day. Add a pump and let the rocks just soak away. Perhaps add in some food every few days to keep the bacterial colonies healthy.

Some people say that there is no cycling bacteria in waste water... Hogwash! There is plenty enough to seed your rocks and you have a TON of time to grow it into a perfectly usable healthy colony before you start your build.

Edit: Also, when you get your curing can set up for your rocks, it would be a great idea to wash out your canister filter media in it. If the waste water doesn't have the bacteria (pffft) the sponges and media in the canister have it in spades and then some!!!

It will also help to run the canister on the new build for at least a few days as the new system balances to the larger volume.

 

[lexrose]

With the increase in size would definitely look into a more powerful heater set up, probably lights as it is an extra foot longer, maybe powerheads depending on what you already have, cant forget a return pump.

Good point. Right now I have a 300w heater. I have other heaters as spares but probably makes sense to get a heater and controller for the larger tank. The light is a maxspect razor 300w and it extends to 60” so I should be covered there. For powerheads I have 2 4K maxspect gyre pumps so hoping that’ll be enough for the larger water volume. Definitely on the lookout for a return pump… any good suggestions. I heard the ecotech vectra are great but I was hoping to find something a little cheaper. Of course, if I can get one secondhand, I’ll be all over it

 

[lexrose]

Get a 2nd heater of same size. When you go larger, 2 smaller heaters are better than a single large one (plus they fit in the sump better). I found a 350w heater from Fluval heats my 135g tank just fine all on its own. I have a 2nd one for a backup set 2* lower than the main one. My heaters are also both digital so I can dial in exactly the temp I want without fiddling with the knob.

For a return pump, I like these...

Compact, adjustable, inexpensive and quiet. I use 2 on my tank because I have dual returns.


For flow generators, I would use what you have at the start. You may or may not need anything extra. Same with lights. Depending on what you use now, you may or may not need to upgrade there.

I recently upgraded a very similar setup to what you are planning. Feel free to check out my build thread. The canister filter was awesome to clean out the dust from the new tank once I filled it up. It was 90% clear within 24 hours.

Build Thread - My new 135 build!!

As many of you know, I have a 55g mixed reef tank that I have been running for about 16 months. This is an exceptionally beautiful tank, and I am so very proud of what I have accomplished with it so far! Unfortunately, as my experience and knowledge has increased, so has my desire to add...

www.reef2reef.com

After I replied to the first post, I saw the comments about the heaters and think I can probably use the ones I have then. I have a 300w eheim with a dial and a 200w finnex with a digital adjustment. While they may not be ideal, sounds like they should do okay to begin with at least.

 

[lexrose]

Since you are getting new rock soon, now is a great time to get it prepped for the new build which is a few months away.

Get a 20g brute can and toss the rocks in (If you are planning a negative space sculpture, build it first) then fill the can with water from your display on water change day. Add a pump and let the rocks just soak away. Perhaps add in some food every few days to keep the bacterial colonies healthy.

Some people say that there is no cycling bacteria in waste water... Hogwash! There is plenty enough to seed your rocks and you have a TON of time to grow it into a perfectly usable healthy colony before you start your build.

Edit: Also, when you get your curing can set up for your rocks, it would be a great idea to wash out your canister filter media in it. If the waste water doesn't have the bacteria (pffft) the sponges and media in the canister have it in spades and then some!!!

It will also help to run the canister on the new build for at least a few days as the new system balances to the larger volume.

Great! I know as soon as the new tank is delivered, I will be horribly impatient trying to get everything setup ASAP. What’s the best way to transfer fish when doing a tank upgrade like this?

 

[Jedi1199]

Great! I know as soon as the new tank is delivered, I will be horribly impatient trying to get everything setup ASAP. What’s the best way to transfer fish when doing a tank upgrade like this?

Read my build thread. You can see exactly what I did and why.

 

[fishski13]

With the increase in size would definitely look into a more powerful heater set up, probably lights as it is an extra foot longer, maybe powerheads depending on what you already have, cant forget a return pump.

Good point. Right now I have a 300w heater. I have other heaters as spares but probably makes sense to get a heater and controller for the larger tank. The light is a maxspect razor 300w and it extends to 60” so I should be covered there. For powerheads I have 2 4K maxspect gyre pumps so hoping that’ll be enough for the larger water volume. Definitely on the lookout for a return pump… any good suggestions. I heard the ecotech vectra are great but I was hoping to find something a little cheaper. Of course, if I can get one secondhand, I’ll be all over it

For return pumps I would defnitely go with the ecotech vectra, probably the s2 or m2 depending if you want more or less flow or the sicce sdc series.

 

[Jedi1199]

For return pumps I would defnitely go with the ecotech vectra, probably the s2 or m2 depending if you want more or less flow or the sicce sdc series.

Cracks me up how many people are so stuck on brands.

It's a return pump people!! All it needs to do is pump water from the sump to the display. It doesn't need a fancy controller board, or any other nonsense. A simple flow adjustment is all it needs. Plug it in and forget about it. For $18 I will take the one I posted over any of those ecotech or Sicce pumps every day.

 

[fishski13]

Cracks me up how many people are so stuck on brands.

It's a return pump people!! All it needs to do is pump water from the sump to the display. It doesn't need a fancy controller board, or any other nonsense. A simple flow adjustment is all it needs. Plug it in and forget about it. For $18 I will take the one I posted over any of those ecotech or Sicce pumps every day.

it cracks me up how you use that kind of pump to run hundreds and thousands of dollars of livestocks you do you

when it breaks down unexpectedly we will see what happens

 

[Jedi1199]

it cracks me up how you use that kind of pump to run hundreds and thousands of dollars of livestocks you do you

when it breaks down unexpectedly we will see what happens

OK, so you are saying that a $350 or $450 pump will NEVER break? Please.. get real man..

I could buy 10 of the ones I use for the cost of one Sicce, and if it breaks, replace it immediately. What do you do when your $400 Ecotech breaks down?

You are a victim of marketing my friend. Nothing more.

 

[Jedi1199]

it cracks me up how you use that kind of pump to run hundreds and thousands of dollars of livestocks you do you

when it breaks down unexpectedly we will see what happens

Just out of curiosity, What do you think will happen if one or even BOTH of my return pumps break down. Will they be stuck on like a heater and nuke the tank? They run 24/7 right now.. is "stuck on" a problem?

Will they stop pumping water? Worst case in that is that for the time they are off, I have no flow through the sump. Is that going to nuke my tank? Highly doubtful. I would even go as far as to say "impossible" unless it happens when I am away from my home for weeks on end.

So for $18 I get a pump that does the job I need. What do you get for the extra $332 for the Ecotech s2 or $432 for the M2? What do you get for the extra $152 for the Sicce? HOW are they doing a better job than the one I use?

 

[lexrose]

Just out of curiosity, What do you think will happen if one or even BOTH of my return pumps break down. Will they be stuck on like a heater and nuke the tank? They run 24/7 right now.. is "stuck on" a problem?

Will they stop pumping water? Worst case in that is that for the time they are off, I have no flow through the sump. Is that going to nuke my tank? Highly doubtful. I would even go as far as to say "impossible" unless it happens when I am away from my home for weeks on end.

So for $18 I get a pump that does the job I need. What do you get for the extra $332 for the Ecotech s2 or $432 for the M2? What do you get for the extra $152 for the Sicce? HOW are they doing a better job than the one I use?

So I definitely appreciate a budget build. I don’t think there is anything wrong with either option. Yes, the ecotech and sicce pumps are expensive but they typically come with a higher build quality with some an increased level of usability and functionality features. No, they are not necessary but do give users the ability to customize their setups easier. I certainly don’t have top of the line equipment now, I would say my equipment is somewhere around the middle of the road. I’d likely be interested in getting a return pump with some additionally functionality (I’m being vague here because I didn’t look into what “features” return pumps have). But I’d like to push past the return pump here. How about skimmers? Are they necessary? What skimmers do you recommend?

 

[Jedi1199]

Just out of curiosity, What do you think will happen if one or even BOTH of my return pumps break down. Will they be stuck on like a heater and nuke the tank? They run 24/7 right now.. is "stuck on" a problem?

So I definitely appreciate a budget build. I don’t think there is anything wrong with either option. Yes, the ecotech and sicce pumps are expensive but they typically come with a higher build quality with some an increased level of usability and functionality features. No, they are not necessary but do give users the ability to customize their setups easier. I certainly don’t have top of the line equipment now, I would say my equipment is somewhere around the middle of the road. I’d likely be interested in getting a return pump with some additionally functionality (I’m being vague here because I didn’t look into what “features” return pumps have). But I’d like to push past the return pump here. How about skimmers? Are they necessary? What skimmers do you recommend?

What does a return pump do? What is its primary function? It pumps water from the sump to the display. Nothing more, nothing less. It is a simple single function device.

What functionality does a return pump NEED? Adjustment for flow rate and.... Hmmmm, well nothing else. The ONLY other function that you need is the ability to easily take it apart for cleaning. Nothing else, nope, nadda, zilch, zero, zip!!

Move water from sump to display, end of story.

Save your money and put it into your lighting. That ecotech pump is nearly the cost of a good Kessil A360X tb.

Lights are the single most important and most misunderstood component of our ecosystems. They also are the most expensive.

 

[lexrose]

For return pumps I would defnitely go with the ecotech vectra, probably the s2 or m2 depending if you want more or less flow or the sicce sdc series.

Are dc return pumps better than ac ones?

 

[Jedi1199]

Are dc return pumps better than ac ones?

To what end? Do they move water differently? Nope.

 

[Jedi1199]

Here is a write up that I found...

Write-Up Wednesday: DC Return Pumps​

Category: Equipment, Write Up Wednesdays
Tagged as: dc return pump, write up wednesday

Return pumps come in two flavors, dictated by the electricity that runs them. AC return pumps run on alternating or “AC” power while DC return pumps run on direct current or “DC” power.

AC pumps have been powering our tanks for a long time with a good track record so why fix something that isn’t broken? There are a couple of reasons why these DC pumps are marketed as “better” than their AC counter parts:

Control

A DC return pump gives you the option of variable speed control which means you can now control how much water flows out of the pump. Contract this feature with an AC powered skimmer pump that is either on 100% or off.

This control comes in handy in a return pump as if the flow rate is too much, simply turn the pump down. Need more flow back into your tank? Crank the pump up! Remember that you’ll still need to know approximately what flow rate you need as if you need flow that is beyond the capabilities of the pump given your head pressure, you’re out of luck.

Flow control is achieved through an included controller where flow can be dialed up or down. These controllers often include a built-in feed timer that will shut off the pump for a number of minutes while you feed your fish.

Finally for controllability, DC pumps have a “soft start” feature meaning the pump starts at a low rpm and ramps up to full speed, potentially reducing broken impellers.

Efficiency

DC pumps are more efficient than AC pumps. In other words, it takes less electricity to get more performance out of the pump. That means a smaller electric bill. (I highly doubt that you’ll see a drop in your home power bill if you switch to a DC return pump, but hey, it makes for a great selling point!).

While these DC return pumps look promising, I’ve avoided them for one big reason: quality.

I’ve talked to several saltwater equipment retailers that tell me that they have stacks of dead DC return pumps. I’ve also talked to several other professional saltwater tank installers who have had multiple failures of these pumps.

For the pumps that are still operating, I’ve run across countless stories of the controller for the pump being hot to touch including one instance where the client called the service company to complain about the heat of the box!

I like the concept of a DC-driven return pump and I’m still avoiding them until I see a DC return pump of real quality.


Source: https://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/wri...ecord so why fix something that isn’t broken?

 

[Jedi1199]

After reading this I can tell you firsthand, my pumps have a simple gate valve for flow control. I can dial the flow up or down simply by opening or closing the gate a little by hand. Since this is likely something you will only do once, do you need an outside controller for that?