Tank upgrade plan-thoughts?

Toddp65 · Aug 4, 2015

Within a week I plan on moving ahead with my tank upgrade (29-60).
Tank is set up in desired location, plumbed and leak tested. I'm currently making saltwater for the move but I only have one 32 gallon can for that process. I have reef flakes already rinsed and dried out and the extra dry Marco rock which will make up the majority of the display tank rock sitting in a tub of saltwater half built in the way I want them. The current live rock will mostly go in the sump except for some underlying pieces which will also go in display.

So my plan is to place the sand in the new tank (it'll only amount to about an inch or so) and then add some of the Marco rock and begin filling the tank with the water I have prepared (kind of using the tank for water storage as well) until its half filled or so and continue making water in the process. I'll have a powerhead circulating the water in the tank as it won't be enough to reach the overflow.
If the timeline is right I should have tank filled and running with all dry rock and water prior to the move.
On move day I'll drain 20 or so gallons for displacement as I add some of the existing cured water from the old tank then I'll scrub some of the algae covered live rock from 28 and put in sump and add some of the better rock to the display.
I know this sounds somewhat complicated but my goal is to have tank running with dry rock and water a day or so prior to move OK kus thus way I can stare at coral structure and make any changes prior to adding coral and livestock. Since there will be no bacteria in this tank it shouldn't cycle or spike as it runs with no life, correct?

Thoughts?

Toddp65 · Aug 4, 2015

No one?

Hausser · Aug 4, 2015

will all the new sand and rock it will need to cycle. The 20 gallons will help with cycle.

Toddp65 · Aug 4, 2015

I'm using the 25 or so lbs from my 28. It's mostly going in the sump and remainder in display

brandon429 · Aug 5, 2015

As I read your description, it will not cycle or rot or do anything when filled with the dry materials and water. Organic material must be added to get the rot to get the ammonia

If you added tank water to a tank of dry sand and Marco rocks, what would begin to occur would be seeding of Marco rocks and dry sand since tank water probably has a billion nitrifers in suspension attached to other items in suspension. That condition isn't lethal to them, so no cycle.

Adding higher meats like a coctail shrimp sure would lol

When you add the live rock to the system you still don't have to spike ammonia as that would kill or stress benthic animals on the good cured live rocks. They will cast their goods to the dry substrates.

The initial bioload for the new tank is planned around the cured substrates used in the new tank, the dry materials are simply inert and are new vital space for seed colonization.

You are doing a blended skip cycle and its not hard to pull off. Moving cured substrates among tanks isn't lethal if you'll keep things wet, so your bioload xfers like it never left the old tank, its no different than if I walk over to my ten yr old pico reef and instantly double the rock load using dry Marco rock. No cycle occurs, and that substrate takes on life slowly, my bioload wasn't increased just the vital space.

Toddp65 · Aug 6, 2015

Thanks...
I won't be adding my existing tank water until the move next week.
I'm currently letting the tank filled with dry sand and water settle then I'm going to add the Marco rock (I know, kind of lopsided because it's difficult aquascaping with waster and sand but I only have an inch of the reef flakes so i can move it around) that way there won't be any cloudiness or huge temperature spikes while moving livestock and existing live rock over and I won't stress anything because the scape will be done mostly...

Harold Green · Aug 6, 2015

Was there some reason why you didn't just mix the new salt water in the tank with the dry rock and sand?

Toddp65 · Aug 6, 2015

Not really. I generally like it mixed prior going into the tank at right salinity equal to current tank. I guess I could have but effort would if been the same

Harold Green · Aug 6, 2015

When I set up my 210 I was able to run the ro line into the tank, let it fill up and then turned the pumps on. Added the salt and let it run for a day or so then adjusted the salinity.