Tap Water switch to RODI

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Hi all,

I was looking for some input on a small situation regarding algae and switching to RODI from tap water. My reef has been running for about 3 months and during this time I have been using only tap water. I have some hair algae and a couple other types which I think is bryopsis and possibly dictyota growing around the reef, and especially in the refugium . At this point it isn't out of control, but I do want to make sure it doesn't take over. Refugium also has some chaeto which is doing ok, but not thriving compared to the hair algae. So now I have my RODI unit and started using it for top off and so far 1 water change.

Currently have a mixed reef with some acro, zoas, lps, euphyllia. Everything looks pretty good and appears to be growing.

Tank parameters:
Ph: 8.15
Ca: 450
Mg: 1380
Po: 0
No3: 5
Kh: 7
Sg: 1.024

Questions:
1. Kh is typically at 8.5 but has dropped to 7 since the switch to RODI is that normal? I'd like to keep it around 8 - 8.5 but not too concerned if it stabilizes at 7 with just water changes, and I can always just start dosing to get it back to where I want.
2. Should I expect the algae to die back now that I am using RODI? I'm assuming I've had 0 reading on Phosphates because the algae has consumed them.
3. If the algae does die off I'm assuming it will release nutrients and cause new algae growth unless it is manually removed before it dies. Is this assumption correct?
4. I could treat with reef flux if necessary to get a head start on knocking the algae back, but would rather not use an additive if its not really going to help.
5. Is there anything I'm not thinking of that I should prepare for
 
You are still in the "tank uglies" stage. Various nuisance algaes will come and go during this time. I wouldn't waste too much time worrying about them at this point.

Please try to avoid treating your tank with whatever magic potion promises to cure something that is almost always a transitory problem anyway.

As for the drop in Kh - sure, switching from tap water to rodi it is not unreasonable to expect a drop. Remember that the rodi unit is removing all the various ions from the water, leaving you with just H2O. Especially in a new tank, and with few/small corals, the alkalinity can easily be brought up to wherever you think you need it with simple water changes. This is especially true if you use a salt mix that normally mixes high, like reef crystals.
 
I would also recommend getting your specific gravity up to 1.026. It should have the added bonus of raising your KH.
 
OK, then I shall stay the course with just using RODI for a while and see what happens with the algae. Do you recommend scrubbing the problem areas to manually remove existing algae? Or is that just going to spread the issue to other areas? I'd love to get a Kole tang, but already lost one in acclimation/QT so I'm reluctant to try that again. I'll also beef up my CUC as I only have a handful of snails at this point.
 
The hair algae will probably continue to grow, even going to rodi water. Going to rodi water will help keep additional contaminates going into the tank.
You didn't say how many fish you have, or how much of a cleanup crew you have.
But my first thoughts on hair algae would be manual removal and going bigger on the cleanup crew. Reef Cleaners.org has great deals on packages.
Don't give up on a tang ( depending on tank size ). They can be a great tool.
If you can hold off on chemical solutions, I would.

Tank is new so these issues are normal.
 
The tank is a standard 75 gallon, and for fish I have only a small perc clown, diamond goby and a starry blenny. I really would like to eventually get the Kole tang and a dwarf Angel added. I stopped adding fish after I lost a couple in QT (Kole tang and firefish).

Cleanup crew at this point is only 6 snails (trochus and margarita) I have an open order for an additional 5 trochus once they are in stock. I'm a bit leary on adding hermits as they get mixed reviews on whether they will pick at corals and try to steal snail shells. The annoying part with the algae is that seems to like growing between my zoas and it eventually annoys them so that they are not fully opening.
 
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The tank is a standard 75 gallon, and for fish I have only a small perc clown, diamond goby and a starry blenny. I really would like to eventually get the Kole tang and a dwarf Angel added. I stopped adding fish after I lost a couple in QT (Kole tang and firefish).

Cleanup crew at this point is only 6 snails (trochus and margarita) I have an open order for an additional 5 trochus once they in stock. I'm a bit leary on adding hermits as they get mixed reviews on whether they will pick at corals and try to steal snail shells. The annoying part with the algae is that seems to like growing between my zoas and it eventually annoys them so that they are not fully opening.
Checkout the cleaner packages at Reef Cleaners.org
I use all of the available hermits and snails. While snails do get eaten by hermits, imo it's just part of the deal with a reef tank. I do find scarlet hermits to be less inclined to go rogue.
 
The tank is a standard 75 gallon, and for fish I have only a small perc clown, diamond goby and a starry blenny. I really would like to eventually get the Kole tang and a dwarf Angel added. I stopped adding fish after I lost a couple in QT (Kole tang and firefish).

Cleanup crew at this point is only 6 snails (trochus and margarita) I have an open order for an additional 5 trochus once they in stock. I'm a bit leary on adding hermits as they get mixed reviews on whether they will pick at corals and try to steal snail shells. The annoying part with the algae is that seems to like growing between my zoas and it eventually annoys them so that they are not fully opening.
Although you can’t just automatically that RODI will fish your problems, it could be the solution. After switching to distilled water, my gha cleared up pretty quick. Manual removal by blowing off rocks and such won’t cause problems. If hair algae wants to spread, it’s gonna spread whether you scrub or not. Physically removing the algae removes the nutrients that it consumed from the aquarium entirely, so I would recommend this. It sounds like you have quarantined your fish. If this is the case, I would also recommend quarantining your snails to avoid reintroducing a parasite.
 
Wow, I was looking at the reef cleaner packages and they seem a bit extreme. I feel like all I'll see is the clean up crew if I follow those guidelines. Are these the guidelines most follow? I guess if that is the expected size for a CUC then I am woefully understocked.

I'm afraid I might starve a cleanup crew of that size. I don't have an epic plague of algae. Just a few spots where a patch of algae has taken hold. For the most part the tank is pretty clear.
 
Wow, I was looking at the reef cleaner packages and they seem a bit extreme. I feel like all I'll see is the clean up crew if I follow those guidelines. Are these the guidelines most follow? I guess if that is the expected size for a CUC then I am woefully understocked.

I'm afraid I might starve a cleanup crew of that size. I don't have an epic plague of algae. Just a few spots where a patch of algae has taken hold. For the most part the tank is pretty clear.
No, definitely don’t get the clean up crew recommended for your tank. It’s WAY too big. Look at designing your own with about 50 inverts, or if you want something already laid out, maybe the 25 or 30 gallon crew.
 
Wow, I was looking at the reef cleaner packages and they seem a bit extreme. I feel like all I'll see is the clean up crew if I follow those guidelines. Are these the guidelines most follow? I guess if that is the expected size for a CUC then I am woefully understocked.

I'm afraid I might starve a cleanup crew of that size. I don't have an epic plague of algae. Just a few spots where a patch of algae has taken hold. For the most part the tank is pretty clear.
For a new tank I recommend adding as needed. For an mature reef replacing cuc a full package may be warranted
 

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