TDS=45??

jmags080307

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I have the aquafx barracuda 50 GPD and i have an additional canister with a second resin. I replaced both resin cartridges, the sediment and carbon block in the beginning of november. my tds meter (HM digital tds ez meter) and it's reading 35? i haven't calibrated my tds meter in a while but after i replaced the cartridges in november the reading was zero. i see no ill effects in my tank. a few spots of algae and some diatoms on the sand (nothing crazy). it made me think to test my rodi for tds. could those resin cartridges go bad that fast? i'm probably using 20 gallons of water a week. seems fast to me. i'd say my rodi is a little over 2 years old. not sure if it could be the membrane? any thoughts would be appreciated.
jay
 
I have the aquafx barracuda 50 GPD and i have an additional canister with a second resin. I replaced both resin cartridges, the sediment and carbon block in the beginning of november. my tds meter (HM digital tds ez meter) and it's reading 35? i haven't calibrated my tds meter in a while but after i replaced the cartridges in november the reading was zero. i see no ill effects in my tank. a few spots of algae and some diatoms on the sand (nothing crazy). it made me think to test my rodi for tds. could those resin cartridges go bad that fast? i'm probably using 20 gallons of water a week. seems fast to me. i'd say my rodi is a little over 2 years old. not sure if it could be the membrane? any thoughts would be appreciated.
jay
Membranes can go bad in two years but a lot of factors there. I can name a few that would deplete a membrane fast.
Running for hours of continuous use
Not flushing your membrane before/after and every couple hours during use
Running expired carbon or sediment blocks.
Are you able to check the tds before it reaches the DI stage-there lies your answer
 
Membranes can go bad in two years but a lot of factors there. I can name a few that would deplete a membrane fast.
Running for hours of continuous use
Not flushing your membrane before/after and every couple hours during use
Running expired carbon or sediment blocks.
Are you able to check the tds before it reaches the DI stage-there lies your answer
Before DI= 37, after my first DI resin = 29, after 2nd DI resin = 37.

I didn't realize yiu needed to flush your membrane. So I never have.
 
It sounds like your RO/DI system could use a general tune-up. First you need to understand the different parts of the system. There are four basic parts to your RO/DI system.

The first is the sediment filter. This removes particles from the water that might clog later stages.

The second part are your carbon blocks. These protect your expensive membrane by removing chlorine and chloramine (the former being more damaging than the latter), and other chemicals.

The third part is the RO membrane. This is where 95% of the work is done in the RO/DI system. Most membranes have rejection rates >= 95%. That means if the water coming out of your tap reads 250ppm TDS, it should be 12ppm TDS or lower after the RO membrane.

The final stage of the system is the DI resin. This removes ions that are difficult for the RO membrane to handle. After the DI stage, the TDS reading of your water should be 0ppm.

All of these parts of the system need to be serviced at different times, and you won't be able to tell they need to be serviced by looking at the TDS of the product water.

The sediment filter and carbon blocks are usually referred to as the "prefilters." In general, you need to replace these every 6 months regardless of how much water you make or the final TDS. It is possible to be smart about this and replace the prefilters only as necessary. You can replace the sediment filter only when water pressure before and after the prefilters drops. To do this, you will need a pressure gauge before and after the prefilters. If the pressure is dropping, the prefilter is getting clogged and needs to be replaced. You can replace the carbon blocks when they're exhausted by checking the waste water for chlorine or chloramines. If any chlorine or chloramines are detected, the carbon block(s) need to be replaced immediately. Chlorine will ruin an RO/DI membrane in very short order. Depending upon how much work you feel like putting into RO/DI maintenance, it might just be easier to replace the prefilters on a schedule, every 6 months. If you haven't replaced your prefilters in a while, you should do so regardless of the final TDS.

The RO membrane actually does not need to be replaced very frequently. My last membrane I had for over 10 years. You only need to replace the RO membrane when the rejection rate drops. To test this, you first must determine your membrane's rejection rate. Most membranes reject about 95% or more of the solids, so 95% is a decent rule of thumb. First, measure your tap water's TDS. Then, measure the TDS of the water after your RO membrane, but before the DI resin. Since the rejection rate of your membrane is 95%, that means about 5% of the solids should remain. So, take your tap TDS and multiply it by 0.05. If the reading after your RO membrane is greater than this number, you may need to replace your RO membrane. Keep in mind, however, that many things affect membrane performance, such as pressure and water temperature. This number may vary depending on your source water.

Because the DI resin is the last final polish, it needs to be replaced any time the TDS of the product water reads above 0ppm. If your system is running efficiently and you're staying on top of filter replacements, your DI resin should last a while. It's possible if your water has high CO2 that it might exhaust fast, but in general, DI resin should last a while.
 
It sounds like your RO/DI system could use a general tune-up. First you need to understand the different parts of the system. There are four basic parts to your RO/DI system.

The first is the sediment filter. This removes particles from the water that might clog later stages.

The second part are your carbon blocks. These protect your expensive membrane by removing chlorine and chloramine (the former being more damaging than the latter), and other chemicals.

The third part is the RO membrane. This is where 95% of the work is done in the RO/DI system. Most membranes have rejection rates >= 95%. That means if the water coming out of your tap reads 250ppm TDS, it should be 12ppm TDS or lower after the RO membrane.

The final stage of the system is the DI resin. This removes ions that are difficult for the RO membrane to handle. After the DI stage, the TDS reading of your water should be 0ppm.

All of these parts of the system need to be serviced at different times, and you won't be able to tell they need to be serviced by looking at the TDS of the product water.

The sediment filter and carbon blocks are usually referred to as the "prefilters." In general, you need to replace these every 6 months regardless of how much water you make or the final TDS. It is possible to be smart about this and replace the prefilters only as necessary. You can replace the sediment filter only when water pressure before and after the prefilters drops. To do this, you will need a pressure gauge before and after the prefilters. If the pressure is dropping, the prefilter is getting clogged and needs to be replaced. You can replace the carbon blocks when they're exhausted by checking the waste water for chlorine or chloramines. If any chlorine or chloramines are detected, the carbon block(s) need to be replaced immediately. Chlorine will ruin an RO/DI membrane in very short order. Depending upon how much work you feel like putting into RO/DI maintenance, it might just be easier to replace the prefilters on a schedule, every 6 months. If you haven't replaced your prefilters in a while, you should do so regardless of the final TDS.

The RO membrane actually does not need to be replaced very frequently. My last membrane I had for over 10 years. You only need to replace the RO membrane when the rejection rate drops. To test this, you first must determine your membrane's rejection rate. Most membranes reject about 95% or more of the solids, so 95% is a decent rule of thumb. First, measure your tap water's TDS. Then, measure the TDS of the water after your RO membrane, but before the DI resin. Since the rejection rate of your membrane is 95%, that means about 5% of the solids should remain. So, take your tap TDS and multiply it by 0.05. If the reading after your RO membrane is greater than this number, you may need to replace your RO membrane. Keep in mind, however, that many things affect membrane performance, such as pressure and water temperature. This number may vary depending on your source water.

Because the DI resin is the last final polish, it needs to be replaced any time the TDS of the product water reads above 0ppm. If your system is running efficiently and you're staying on top of filter replacements, your DI resin should last a while. It's possible if your water has high CO2 that it might exhaust fast, but in general, DI resin should last a while.
Appreciate the help! I change the sediment and carbon blockers every 6 months. My water from the tap has a tds of 430. So it seems like my membrane is eliminating 95%. Sounds like I need to chhange it.
 
Appreciate the help! I change the sediment and carbon blockers every 6 months. My water from the tap has a tds of 430. So it seems like my membrane is eliminating 95%. Sounds like I need to chhange it.

Glad to help. 37ppm TDS in your case would be around 92% rejection, so you're right, you may need to replace the membrane. You mentioned it's a 50GPD unit? You may want to replace the membrane with a 75GPD instead. These membranes typically have some of the best rejection rates available.
 
Best money one can spend regarding water station IMO is HM Digital inline dual tds. For the longest time I only had the hand help tds meter , but I would never live without the multi stage in line tds meter again(very small investment around 30-50 bucks)....gives you a better idea of how your system is performing at various stages....as an aside I would avoid adding water with such high readings as although you aren't seeing any immediate degradation of tank health...doing so is a cumulative effect and will haunt you down the road....go for zero tolerance....enough things can go wrong on their own in reefing, so you don't want to knowingly contribute to factors that contribute to lack of long term success ( meaning less than optimal proper water cleanliness water changes)....good luck
 
Best money one can spend regarding water station IMO is HM Digital inline dual tds. For the longest time I only had the hand help tds meter , but I would never live without the multi stage in line tds meter again(very small investment around 30-50 bucks)....gives you a better idea of how your system is performing at various stages....as an aside I would avoid adding water with such high readings as although you aren't seeing any immediate degradation of tank health...doing so is a cumulative effect and will haunt you down the road....go for zero tolerance....enough things can go wrong on their own in reefing, so you don't want to knowingly contribute to factors that contribute to lack of long term success ( meaning less than optimal proper water cleanliness water changes)....good luck
appreciate all the comments. new 75 GPD membrane on the way, a flush valve kit, the HM digital inline TDS meter and 7 lb pack of resin. had a 10% coupon for everything. had to head to my LFS today to buy RODI water. picked up 10 gallons (tested 0 with the handheld TDS).
 
appreciate all the comments. new 75 GPD membrane on the way, a flush valve kit, the HM digital inline TDS meter and 7 lb pack of resin. had a 10% coupon for everything. had to head to my LFS today to buy RODI water. picked up 10 gallons (tested 0 with the handheld TDS).
Very nice!
 
Flush valve check. Inline tds meter check.
395 coming out of tap, 14 after membrane and 0 after TDs. Thanks everyone. I'll start flushing before and after:)
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O tds is always a good feeling. I always appreciate concise exact measurable items in this hobby....the tds meter is one of those things that gives that consistently and unlike lots of other params in this hobby I still can appreciate a consistent measurable big fat ZERO. Congrats.
 
I assume you got the flow restrictor to match the new membrane? Realize the inline tds meters are not temp correcting so can be off because of it. Just depends on your water temp. Also the flush kit is useless, does nothing on our hobbyist level units. Now if by flush kit you mean you bypass the DI for the first few minutes when you start up the unit, then that is a good thing. It gets rid of tds creep so it doesn't deplete your DI faster than normal.
 
Might not be the answer, but check to make sure your resin canister is in the right way. I did that one time and could not get my tds below 20. When I flipped it and put it in the correct way it stayed at 0
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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