TDS Creep on ASO?

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My RODI is giving too high a TDS than what should be realistic. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a possibly cross contamination of water within then ASO? Just an idea.
 
What's TDS before it hits your RODI and what's the TDS before it hits the DI and the Final TDS?
 
What's TDS before it hits your RODI and what's the TDS before it hits the DI and the Final TDS?

House 800
Water Softener 670
RO 80-150 @60-65psi
DI 0+ (I removed the DI it's already used up).

I already ordered all replacement filters from spectrapure. .5micron and 99% rejection RO with their two high cap DI.

The RO membrane I have now came with the unit that I bought open box and it's rated for 93% @65psi for 150GPD 2:1. I have hard water so I'll be changing the ratio to 3:1 when the new filters arrive.

I am still wondering what I did wrong with this current setup. Worse case the issue is still hiding but will be suppressed more when I change filters.

I removed the ASO and it didn't do anything really.. the TDS was horrible at around 160 from a hand held.

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Does anyone else's ASO idle the PSI before it drops? Mine went down some and the gage meter was shaking a lot around some number and the whole thing was rattling then after 10 seconds or something it went down to 0.
 
I suggest to talk to Marc @melev he can explain why your unit does that.

IMO the membrane was backwards installed as the water by passes the membrane and will use up your DI quickly.
 
Changing the membrane to 100gpd at 98% rejection rate will help consume less TDS. I believe we spoke via email about a week ago, right? The problem is you have very high TDS. At least now we know the water softener is reducing the TDS somewhat.

I run the same 150gpd system myself, and swapped out the normal membrane with a 100gpd membrane and it has made my resin last much longer as well. The waste ratio rises, but the membrane removes more total dissolved solids.

Water doesn't cross-pollute in the Auto Shut Off Valve (ASOV). It's simply a mechanical plunger to shut off the flow of water going to the system when fully pressurized.
 
Does anyone else's ASO idle the PSI before it drops? Mine went down some and the gage meter was shaking a lot around some number and the whole thing was rattling then after 10 seconds or something it went down to 0.

That is what it was supposed to do, to turn off the system. Pressure drops to zero when it is off.

Did you remove the pressure switch and some other tubing? It looks like it. Be sure you turn off the booster pump when you aren't running it. That is what the pressure switch did automatically; you have to do it manually now.
 
I believe we spoke via email about a week ago, right? The problem is you have very high TDS. At least now we know the water softener is reducing the TDS somewhat.

...

Water doesn't cross-pollute in the Auto Shut Off Valve (ASOV). It's simply a mechanical plunger to shut off the flow of water going to the system when fully pressurized.

Yes we talked over facebook. :)

Okay I just didn't know if it was possible. Also had another question, if I was suppose to run the water through the carbon before putting the RO in?

Did you remove the pressure switch and some other tubing? It looks like it. Be sure you turn off the booster pump when you aren't running it. That is what the pressure switch did automatically; you have to do it manually now.

I unplugged the booster pump entirely and by passed it. I took it off only as a test. I took photos before I did it and set everything up the way I received it after. It was mainly because I saw a comment on YouTube about TDS creep on ASO so I was wondering if that had any validity. So I tested it myself and saw the ASO didn't do anything negative.


Also I bought replacement filters for this unit. Just waiting on shipping :)
 
The water flows this direction: Sediment -> Carbon -> Carbon -> Booster Pump -> Membrane -> ASOV -> DI stage.

When you install a new membrane, you need to let it run for one hour to flush out the food grade preservative within the membrane. After about 5g of water has been pushed through it, then hook up the DI stage. No reason to waste DI resin during this procedure. (Another method is to simply take the DI cartridge out if that is easier.)

I have a video about TDS creep that may help you, not sure if you saw it yet? But it has nothing to do with the ASOV. http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/182-RO-DI-TDS-Creep-is-it-worthy-of-concern
 
Perfect timing! I literally would've been out of water today. Went to the saltwater store twice this week and the dood closed early. 45min drive each way.

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Perfect timing! I literally would've been out of water today. Went to the saltwater store twice this week and the dood closed early. 45min drive each way.

IMG_2499.JPG

@melev problem solved with new membrane! 98% currently. :)
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That's much better. Remember, let it run for one hour. Then hook up the DI stage.
 
You will love that membrane. I have been running the same one for 8.5 years now, my softened tap TDS runs between 450 and 800 and the RO only TDS is still better than 99.3% rejection rate. Actual test results from January 29th were water temp 59.9F, softened TDS 482, boosted pressure 92 psi and RO only TDS 3.3 using a COM-100 TDS meter. That's with the original membrane still and only a few 0.2 micron ZetaZorb and 0.5 micron carbon replacements in that 8.5 years. Standard MaxCap DI cartridges lasted well over a year, in excess of 1000 gallons, and the SilicaBusters went 3+ years or over 3000 gallons. Softened water, good prefiltration and a booster pump make all the difference in the world.
Oh and that is at just slightly over 1:1 waste ratio too on their UHE-100 RO/DI system.
 

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