TDS meter/ RODI questions

You have to be testing the waste water line and not the "good" water side. A good membrane will typically be about 98 % efficient, with the DI cleaning up that last couple percent. Something's not right. Could you take pictures or diagram how you have it set up.


EDIT TO ADD: Oops! While I was typing you posted the pictures above. Let me see what I can see.

EDIT # 2: Here's what it should look like:


Yea with that valve open ?
 
Bottom line is that you're not utilizing the unit correctly. That valve is to flush your membrane and needs to be closed when you're making water. Where's @AZDesertRat when you need him? I'm just missing something.
 
Isn't the square part on the back side a auto shutoff valve? If so, I'm wondering if it is setup correctly.
 
Trace your lines using this diagram:
http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

Ignore the drinking water pressure tank and faucet but everything else should be the same. Pay special attention to the RO membrane housing, especially the end with two lines on it, note one line is closer to the centerline of the housing long axis and the other is closer to the outer edge. The line closer to the outer edge is the tap water going into the RO from the carbon block and the one closer to the centerline is the treated RO water going out, through the autoshutoff valve and to the DI filter. The way they have the lines woven in and out of the bracket and not color coded with blue, black, red and yellow makes it hard to follow them in the photos but you should be able to trace them with the diagram.
Forget you even have the flush valve, turn the valve handle crossways and forget it exists.
 
Yes he has the auto shut off installed. It should be removed. The square thing in the back. With four lines. Reconnect without it.
 
You can leave the ASOV installed, if it is plumbed correctly it doesn't hurt a thing and allows you to shut the system off automatically when a float valve is used or a solenoid valve and float switches which I prefer.
 

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