TDS: new filters + still have poor performance

[TatorTaco]

I have a BRS 4 stage RODI unit. I just replaced all filters (except that one that runs perpendicular on top). I also replaced the TDS meter to ensure I was getting accurate results.

I live on city water and it’s running at 60 psi.

I’m reading 16ppm coming in, and and only 11 going out. This leads me to believe this unit (or the filters) are not performing well. But, idk why.

Anything I can do to get lower TDS? I’ve had this unit for years and only over the last 6 months have I noticed that my output TDS was greater than zero.

 

[KStatefan]

What is the TDS going into and out of the membrane the membrane and what is the final product water TDS?

 

[blaxsun]

What is the TDS going into and out of the membrane the membrane and what is the final product water TDS?

This. On my RODI system I I have to flush the pre-filter/carbon cartridges by removing the membrane and DI resin (replacing with flush caps) to avoid potentially clogging up both the membrane and resin.

 

[TatorTaco]

This. On my RODI system I I have to flush the pre-filter/carbon cartridges by removing the membrane and DI resin (replacing with flush caps) to avoid potentially clogging up both the membrane and resin.

I’m reading 16ppm coming in, and and only 11 going out.

 

[blaxsun]

I’m reading 16ppm coming in, and and only 11 going out.

Mine has 225+ going in and 0-1 going out...

 

[TatorTaco]

I think I’ve opened Pandora’s Box. It occurred to me that this issue started when I was working with Coralvue to get my booster pump to work with a Hydros controller.

It’s possible that I routed the lines to the wrong place during those calls. That would justify why the TDS isn’t improved much - it might be skipping a filter.

I know my “out” TDS probe is correctly placed by referencing stock photos online. I’m KINDA sure my “in” TDS probe is correctly routed. I’ll attach a pic for reference of the back of the unit.

Besides the color of the RO lines being weird, do y’all see any glaring issues?

 

[blaxsun]

It's hard to tell without seeing all the canisters, tubing and knowing which colors are which. On my RODI system, I have the "in" probe right after the T-valve connected to the cold water supply and the "out" probe is after the auto-shutoff with the hose that I use for filling up my RO containers.

 

[TatorTaco]

Is this one of those situations where I’m better off starting from scratch with a new unit?

I don’t have a local subject matter expert local, and I’m not optimistic that a CAR at BRS is gonna be able to help me trace each line to each junction.

 

[blaxsun]

Have you checked this out?

4 Stage RO/DI Installation Instructions

Bulk Reef Supply Reverse Osmosis Deionization Systems only take a few minutes to have connected and making purified water. All of the plumbing on the RO/DI unit will be complete and all you will need to do is connect the tubing to a suitable source water connection, and direct the product and...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[KStatefan]

Is this one of those situations where I’m better off starting from scratch with a new unit?

I don’t have a local subject matter expert local, and I’m not optimistic that a CAR at BRS is gonna be able to help me trace each line to each junction.

I do not know what all you have done. There are plumbing diagrams you can look at. They are all basically the same depending on what options are on it.

You could call Russ @Buckeye Hydro next week and I would bet he would help you even without purchasing from him.

 

[workhz]

How about just map and draw it out like a flow diagram with boxes. Might be easier to troubleshoot.

 

[TatorTaco]

Started to draw it out but it looks like it wouldn’t make sense.

I’ve referenced the BRS site, and everything appears to be connected correctly.

I’m debating ordering new color coded lines to mirror the way it’d come brand new, or just buying a new unit altogether which I’m sure would solve my issue. Bonus- I’d have spare parts. Thoughts?

Below is a screenshot from their website. I’ve never changed the top membrane (ever). Could that be a cause? I thought it’s sole purpose was to help push water through the unit again to reduce excess waste water?