TDS Readings after replacing membranes :/

tangboy

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I changed out my RO/DI this summer, fresh poly filter, Carbon filter, poly filter and DI resin tube.

I filled up my 324 tank and haven't added salt yet. Had baserock and sand in it, been running skimmer on it to pull anything out I can before I do some water changes and then finally add my salt.

I checked my 35 gallon trash can and my water is 45ish TDS... I've only made about 500 gallons of water on this batch of filters etc. Should it be this high?!

I do not want to put anything in my tank that is double digits!
 
did you spill anything in it (like saltwater)? I spilled some saltwater into my ato resevoir once on accident (not much, maybe a cup or less), tds of the resevoir shot to over 40...

check the water coming out of the unit with a very clean glass.. that should tell you if it's coming from the unit or if it's been contaminated..
 
What is the TDS directly out of the RO/DI? The trashcan will be higher due to being exposed to atmosphere and if it has been used before probably salt and debris in the can.

To troubleshoot a RO/DI you need the tap water TDS, RO only TDS before the DI and the final RO/DI directly from the unit, not from a storage container or bucket which may be contaminated. It could be something as simple as salt or as bad a exhausted DI resin or a bad membrane.

What are your three TDS readings?
 
I tested it in a clean container with about 10 oz of water and it was running about 15 after just letting the water run through it...
 
I should say this is a 4 stage RO unit.

Prefilter, Carbon, Prefilter, RO/DI membrane (removes silicates and phosphates)...
 
If it is a RO/DI, at a minimum you need a new DI cartridge or resin as yours is way past exhaustion.
As I mentioned before, you need to know the tap water TDs and RO only TDS too since the RO membrane is the workhorse of the system and does 90-98% of the work. If the membrane is bad or not seated properly in the housing it could be making the DI do all the work which is not good.

First, get a clear glass drinking water glass and wash it by hand in extremely hot water so it has no dishwasher soap residue or anti spotting agents on it or hard water spots. Then since we suspect your DI is exhausted get a gallon jug of distilled water and triple rinse both the glass and your TDS meter in distilled water then check the TDS of the distilled water in the glass to make sure it is 0 or very close to it. This will ensure the meter is clean and fairly accurate.
Next draw a sample of your tap water in the glass and insert the meter allowing the reading to stabilize before writing it down. Triple rinse the glass and meter in distilled water then let the RO tun for at least 5-10 minutes and take a sample of the RO only water before the DI filter and again let the reading stabilize before writing it down. You should be able to disconnect the 1/4" line leading from the RO membrane to the DI filter at the DI end to draw this sample if you don't have a DI bypass valve. Again triple rinse the glass and meter in distilled water one more time before drawing a RO/DI sample directly from the system after it has been running several minutes then write down this last reading, triple rinse the meter and glass a final time in the distilled and put the meter away clean and capped and the glass upside down so it stays clean for next time.

What are all three TDS readings? This is the first setp in troubleshooting the RO/DI system. If you want to go further you need to know your water pressure and your water temperature and measure your exact waste ratio to ensure the system is operating efficiently. All of these tests are critical to good DI life.

If it is RO only you still need two readings, tap water TDS and RO only TDS and you still need to do the triple rinses to make sure the meter is clean and accurate. If it does not show 0 TDS +/- in distilled water the meter needs to be calibrated or replaced. If it is an RO only system why might I ask do you have two prefilters unless you are using a granular carbon which I hope is not the case as carbon degrades with use and turns to dust when in granular form and can add TDS and potentially foul the membrane if the last prefilter is not very low micron.
 
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I seem to not be remembering things well...

Here is what I have

Stage 1: 1 Micron Sediment Filter
Stage 2: Heavy Duty Carbon Block
Stage 3: Silicate Blaster DI Cartridge
Stage 4: 50 GPD RO Membrane

That is what is on my history from foster & smith.

And once again, these were replaced just a few months ago and have less then 500 gallons of water made...
 
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OK so you do have a RO/DI and you need three TDS readings. The actual order of the filters is sediment, carbon, RO membrane then the DI if it was a factory built system. Did you buy these filters and install them in a system you already had? If so it is possible the system had two carbons to begin with and you would need to do some replumbing to place the DI at the tail end of the process. Do you have any photos of the RO/DI system and its plumbing or a name and model? If the DI is not the last thing in the process it will wear out quickly since it should only be doing a final polishing of what the RO missed, not doing the bulk of the work and letting the RO cruise.
 

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