Teach Me! I want to learn

[Lavey29]

So far only partial parameters have been posted unless I missed something. Alk and salinity numbers? How often water changes? Using RODI? Any ICP test to look at everything? I Agee with some of the other posts. Overnight deaths are often 02 related or poor water quality. Disease can enter the tank via different routes but you would probably note some distress signs before death.

What is your sump turnover rate gph? Are you getting enough dwell time in the sump?

 

[Uncle99]

Wouldn’t parasitic death be slower though, overnight?! Also wouldn’t there be any visible signs?

Not always visible.
Velvet kills fast, say 24-36hrs ish.

 

[newreef1]

So far only partial parameters have been posted unless I missed something. Alk and salinity numbers? How often water changes? Using RODI? Any ICP test to look at everything? I Agee with some of the other posts. Overnight deaths are often 02 related or poor water quality. Disease can enter the tank via different routes but you would probably note some distress signs before death.

What is your sump turnover rate gph? Are you getting enough dwell time in the sump?

My salinity is 30ppm which I believe is 1.025. I used to keep my tank slightly lower to match the LFS who keeps it at 1.018. But I now go to a different LFS. Thinking of ordering fish online in the future. The only thing is I added a cover for my MP40 because I’ve had fish getting sucked into it, I wondered if that lowered the 02 bit removed them the next day and also added air stone immediately, would it still have that much effect. I don’t know my sump gph, you mean my return pumps gph? Also I use a RODI filter, not sure if it’s rated correctly, to be on the safe side should I add prime to my water before adding salt and mixing it? Prime should be like an extra layer to remove any chlorine which may contribute to my high nitrate numbers?

 

[newreef1]

So far only partial parameters have been posted unless I missed something. Alk and salinity numbers? How often water changes? Using RODI? Any ICP test to look at everything? I Agee with some of the other posts. Overnight deaths are often 02 related or poor water quality. Disease can enter the tank via different routes but you would probably note some distress signs before death.

What is your sump turnover rate gph? Are you getting enough dwell time in the sump?

Should I get an Icp test? I’ve heard mixed things on the accuracy but I’m willing to go that if it helps. Who do you recommend?

 

[Freenow54]

Hello,
I’m going to be honest with this post. When I first started this “hobby” it wasn’t a hobby. I just wanted a nice looking tank with colorful fish swimming around. Slowly I started enjoying my small WC/routine as I felt I was keeping the fish healthy. Keep aside the learning curves with diseases, I’m tired of seeing my fish die. Last night came home to a dead angelfish which was eating fine the morning before. Today my bird wrasse and another fish died. No injury, no disease, my ammonia etc are all normal within range. (Normal for my tank when my fish were doing fine for months).

I’m tired of seeing my fish die with no valid explanation. I’m going to learn everything I can now, seriously. This post is to ask people if you recommend any books. I’m a great learner, great student. Any books you guys recommend for fish keeping, tank keeping etc. And if anyone wants a virtual intern, ‍ I’m going to take all experience and recommendations I can get. I’m not going to let any of my fish die anymore, definitely not randomly.

I just finished reading this book published by a member. Full of different approaches, and DIY projects added. The one picture is of supermodels for Paul. Another great source is Bulk Reef Supply videos. Just google it Proceeds go to research

 

[newreef1]

I assume you're asking about the sulfur denitrator.

A sulfur denitrator is basically a chamber with sulfur pellets in it, through which tank water is very slowly dripped. The chamber gets anerobic, bacteria use sulfur and nitrate to respire in the absence of free O2, and the nitrate gets used up (well, converted). I use a modified calcium reactor and run it as a denitrator, but they're available purpose-designed:

GEO NR612 Nitrate Reducing Sulfur Reactor | Geo's Reef

www.geosreef.com

There are a bunch of threads about them here.

Just to be clear, it isn't obvious to me that high nitrate is the root cause or even a substantial contributor to your issues. I just suspected that you hadn't used one.

Changing topic a bit: are you losing fish in QT or in the DT? What's the QT setup and protocol?

In the DT, I don’t think it’s my nitrates because even with the same high level the fish were fine. I’m also suspecting either 02 or ammonia despite the ammonia not coming up on the API. I think my RODI filter is the issue for my nitrates, I’m going to start adding prime to my water now before WC and before mixing with salt. I think that might lower nitrates. And in the meantime, add some fritz turbo to help lower ammonia.

 

[newreef1]

I just finished reading this book published by a member. Full of different approaches, and DIY projects added. The one picture is of supermodels for Paul. Another great source is Bulk Reef Supply videos. Just google it Proceeds go to research

Thank you, I’m starting the videos another user commented today too. Will watch these as well.

 

[Spare time]

I’ve added an extra air stone and increased my mp40 and RedSea wave makers speed. Could it be ammonia burns? Something with the live sand and ammonia? I’ve ordered some fritz turbo 900, hoping that will add some good bacteria and reduce ammonia fast, comes in tomorrow. Should I dose prime?

I doubt there is an ammonia issue

 

[Spare time]

My salinity is 30ppm which I believe is 1.025. I used to keep my tank slightly lower to match the LFS who keeps it at 1.018. But I now go to a different LFS. Thinking of ordering fish online in the future. The only thing is I added a cover for my MP40 because I’ve had fish getting sucked into it, I wondered if that lowered the 02 bit removed them the next day and also added air stone immediately, would it still have that much effect. I don’t know my sump gph, you mean my return pumps gph? Also I use a RODI filter, not sure if it’s rated correctly, to be on the safe side should I add prime to my water before adding salt and mixing it? Prime should be like an extra layer to remove any chlorine which may contribute to my high nitrate numbers?

Your salinity is low. It should be 35ppt or about 1.026sg ish

 

[PharmrJohn]

As stated above BRStv has a lot of good information. I'm watching videos daily to get back in the game right. I've been out x12 years.

 

[Lavey29]

Should I get an Icp test? I’ve heard mixed things on the accuracy but I’m willing to go that if it helps. Who do you recommend?

In a big system that has been up and running for awhile with some issues it wouldn't hurt. I get mine done every 4 months or so. It's only $45 but I get a view of a lot of things i can't test for. Some things obviously aren't much of a concern with a fowler but they do check pollutants. Are you running carbon?

I use ATI labs

 

[Lavey29]

In the DT, I don’t think it’s my nitrates because even with the same high level the fish were fine. I’m also suspecting either 02 or ammonia despite the ammonia not coming up on the API. I think my RODI filter is the issue for my nitrates, I’m going to start adding prime to my water now before WC and before mixing with salt. I think that might lower nitrates. And in the meantime, add some fritz turbo to help lower ammonia.

I wouldn't add prime. Thats not going to help nitrates. Fowlrs typically have higher nitrates because no coral there to use them up. Wet skim more and maybe chaeto refugium is what I use.

 

[kevgib67]

I highly recommend watching BRS 52 weeks of reefing and this book written by a member on here.

 

[Malum Argenteum]

In the DT, I don’t think it’s my nitrates because even with the same high level the fish were fine. I’m also suspecting either 02 or ammonia despite the ammonia not coming up on the API. I think my RODI filter is the issue for my nitrates, I’m going to start adding prime to my water now before WC and before mixing with salt. I think that might lower nitrates. And in the meantime, add some fritz turbo to help lower ammonia.

Are you quarantining? If so, what is the QT setup like and what procedures are you using? If not, that's where I'd start improvements to improve outcomes.

If you have ammonia in the QT or the DT, then improving filtration (and possibly reducing the increases in bioload) is critical.

Not sure how NO3 could be coming through the RODI, unless the DI resin is exhausted (is it?). What is the NO3 content of the source water and product water?

Prime should be like an extra layer to remove any chlorine which may contribute to my high nitrate numbers?

If chlorine is coming through your RODI, then your RO membrane is toast (chlorine damages RO membranes, fairly quickly). If it is toast, then replacing it and making sure that the chlorine is being removed by the prefilter is imperative. If you are dealing with chloramines, then the prefilter must be a chloramine prefilter (catalytic GAC).

 

[newreef1]

Are you quarantining? If so, what is the QT setup like and what procedures are you using? If not, that's where I'd start improvements to improve outcomes.

If you have ammonia in the QT or the DT, then improving filtration (and possibly reducing the increases in bioload) is critical.

Not sure how NO3 could be coming through the RODI, unless the DI resin is exhausted (is it?). What is the NO3 content of the source water and product water?


If chlorine is coming through your RODI, then your RO membrane is toast (chlorine damages RO membranes, fairly quickly). If it is toast, then replacing it and making sure that the chlorine is being removed by the prefilter is imperative. If you are dealing with chloramines, then the prefilter must be a chloramine prefilter (catalytic GAC).

I dont quarantine anymore because an Ich infected fish was put into my tank. How do you suggest improving filtration? And decreasing bioload (less fish, feed less) I feel like I do less of those compared to other users on here. I’m thinking of getting a UV sterilizer not sure how that will help with ammonia but it will help with free floating bacteria and parasites.

 

[newreef1]

Hello,
I’m going to be honest with this post. When I first started this “hobby” it wasn’t a hobby. I just wanted a nice looking tank with colorful fish swimming around. Slowly I started enjoying my small WC/routine as I felt I was keeping the fish healthy. Keep aside the learning curves with diseases, I’m tired of seeing my fish die. Last night came home to a dead angelfish which was eating fine the morning before. Today my bird wrasse and another fish died. No injury, no disease, my ammonia etc are all normal within range. (Normal for my tank when my fish were doing fine for months).

I’m tired of seeing my fish die with no valid explanation. I’m going to learn everything I can now, seriously. This post is to ask people if you recommend any books. I’m a great learner, great student. Any books you guys recommend for fish keeping, tank keeping etc. And if anyone wants a virtual intern, ‍ I’m going to take all experience and recommendations I can get. I’m not going to let any of my fish die anymore, definitely not randomly.

Took my water to another LFS, he tested with API, I told him I have that and he proceeds to tell me how it’s the most accurate test for “tanks like this”. I got my chemipure blue and fritz turbo 900 in today. I’ve also ordered all new test kits, salifert. Thinking of ordering Hannah for ammonia but it wouldn’t come in for another week and I want to test now so Salifert.

Going to do a large WC thinking 50% tonight. Replace chemipure elite with my chemi blue and replace my filter pads. After the WC, will add my fritz, if it is ammonia hoping the bacteria will help establish a better bio filter to a heavier bioload. Any ideas?

 

[newreef1]

Took my water to another LFS, he tested with API, I told him I have that and he proceeds to tell me how it’s the most accurate test for “tanks like this”. I got my chemipure blue and fritz turbo 900 in today. I’ve also ordered all new test kits, salifert. Thinking of ordering Hannah for ammonia but it wouldn’t come in for another week and I want to test now so Salifert.

Going to do a large WC thinking 50% tonight. Replace chemipure elite with my chemi blue and replace my filter pads. After the WC, will add my fritz, if it is ammonia hoping the bacteria will help establish a better bio filter to a heavier bioload. Any ideas?

This is a pic of my angel. Any idea what the spots are, they just appeared slowly between yesterday and today. Hopefully might help ID what’s going on.

 

[newreef1]

This is a pic of my angel. Any idea what the spots are, they just appeared slowly between yesterday and today. Hopefully might help ID what’s going on.

@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081 any idea on what this could be. Doing a large WC now so wondering if I could do anything different to help, also changing chemipure and filter pads. Will be adding cuprisorb tomorrow when it comes in. Also have bottle of Fritz turbo 900 on hand.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Sterilizer will address free floating organisms and not erase what is existing on fish. the fish shows facial erosion which in part caused by water quality and dietary issues.
For nitrate, ive seen some tests and studies showing successful use of amquel for nitrate reduction but may or may not work opposed to water changes and reduced feeding/feeding quantity.
What foods are you offering and is fish breathing at a rapid rate or normal?

 

[newreef1]

Sterilizer will address free floating organisms and not erase what is existing on fish. the fish shows facial erosion which in part caused by water quality and dietary issues.
For nitrate, ive seen some tests and studies showing successful use of amquel for nitrate reduction but may or may not work opposed to water changes and reduced feeding/feeding quantity.
What foods are you offering and is fish breathing at a rapid rate or normal?

The angel seems to be breathing slightly fast. My trigger is at the top shooting water out. Just did WC, replaced filters and added microbacter 7.