Tell me what's wrong with my simple ATO

[clm65]

Nothing wrong with this system. My system is similar. RO/DI output to mechanical float valve in sump. 'Above Normal' water level sensor attached to Apex, alarms, and turns OFF output connected to electric ball valve. Ball valve closes when power is lost. I've added a 'high level' sensor as well, hard wired to an audible alarm, if the water level gets within an inch or so of the top of the sump, and a battery powered water alarm on the floor under the sump.

Works great, I sleep well at night.

On RO/DI system 'TDS Creep': Yes, RO membranes run more efficiently if you let them run for extended times. True, BUT... Water from that RO membrane is going through (in my case) a 3 stage DI system. No way that little bit of contaminate is getting into my tank. No. Way.

Add in the fact that my RO system is not used for tank alone... My RO system feeds a 5g pressure tank, attached to a drinking water faucet, fridge ice and water in the kitchen, and an ice maker on the patio. The RO unit runs a lot.

Also, you've got to do proper maintenance. I inspect my float valve, manually trip my 'above normal' sensor to insure it's working as expected, weekly. I replace my sediment filter, flush my RO membrane, and inspect my color change DI cartridges monthly, and change my (4) carbon block filters quarterly. RO membranes seem to last me about 2 years.

Awesome! Like my system, but on steroids! Lot's of good ideas here....

 

[45ZoaGarden]

You could also add a small tank in the garage like the other people said.

 

[WVNed]

Why do I care? I've been in this hobby for a long time, but there is still a lot that I don't know. And there a loads of people on this site that are much smarter than me. So when I'm doing something that seems contrary to what everyone else is doing, I figure it is worth at least asking what I might be missing. Doesn't mean I am going to change what I am doing, but I would like to at least understand where I might be vulnerable.

Things can almost always be made better. But then again there are always diminishing returns.
I do not test my make up water, Yes a little stuff grows in my tanks. I don't care what it's TDS is. I removed what I don't want with the RODI. Nothing that grows in the tanks is going to hurt my system

We argue a lot about optimum and best stuff. I just do what works for me and if I see a new idea on here I like I try it out.

 

[clm65]

Only downfall is a potential float valve failure. You could add optical sensors to make it more secure if you wanted. You could always add a three way splitter to the output hose in your garage and add a ball valve and run that line to a bucket if you wanted to test your water. I would add optical sensors just in case. You can never have too many security blankets. But there is no reason for you to spend $200 and get a conventional system. A $20 sensor and id say you’re good.

Excellent idea on the sensor! I do have a branch off the RODI line in the garage that I use to fill a brute can for water changes, and allow testing as needed.

 

[TinCanHero]

I was wondering too, do you run an Apex? if you do you can add in layers of security using the breakout boxes

 

[clm65]

I was wondering too, do you run an Apex? if you do you can add in layers of security using the breakout boxes

No, don't have an Apex. Maybe someday....

 

[Greybeard]

I've always been told not to store DI water in a metal pressure tank. RO, yes, but not DI. Something about DI water being aggressive in breaking down metals? Have to ask an expert... and I admit to not being one.

 

[CoralFan1776]

I've always been told not to store DI water in a metal pressure tank. RO, yes, but not DI. Something about DI water being aggressive in breaking down metals? Have to ask an expert... and I admit to not being one.

I'm not saying that it's ok to store DI water in a pressure tank or not but thought I would point out that the water is stored in a bladder in the pressure tank and doesn't come in contact with the metal.
Or at least that is my understanding. I've never cut one open to confirm with my own eyes...

 

[CoralFan1776]

I have a similar setup although for ATO it is different.
My tank is upstairs and sump and RO/DI is in the basement.
As others have pointed out the only real worry is for a double failure with your solenoid and float valve.
The only reason I give it any thought is because if they both fail it could mean death to everything in your tank unless you have fish only and then it would have to be pretty extreme.
The odds are low for a double failure though...

The way I set mine up was to only add RO water to the sump through a dosing pump.
Since I add Kalkwasser anyway all my RO is dosed through a Kalk reactor at night for PH stabilization.
With a high/normal water sensor to shut it off.
The fail safes for this is the dose rate on the pump is low enough it would take a couple of days before it were to overflow the sump and that would happen before death would occur in the tank.
I have a water sensor on the floor so I would know the sump overflowed.
That can only happen if the high water sensor fails as well.
I monitor PH and salinity with an Apex so would also know through those alarms.
I also visually look at the sump every night so I would see an abnormally high water level.
The value of the dosing pump is that it slows down the failure rate and gives me a chance to catch it.
I've never had a failure however with the exception of letting my RO reservoir go dry and the level getting low which I don't even monitor for. The return pump blowing bubbles always gives that away.

In your situation I don't know that I would do more than add a sensor for high water.