Temp Controller
- Thread starter saltypilot
- Start date
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Big G
captain dunsel
Have had good results with Finnex controller. The reading is high by 2 degrees but that's OK. Rock steady temp. Use with my Finnex Titanium heater.
https://amazon.com/Finnex-Temperatu...ocphy=9033029&hvtargid=pla-353630736126&psc=1
https://amazon.com/Finnex-Temperatu...ocphy=9033029&hvtargid=pla-353630736126&psc=1
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I have an ink bird, but I am worried about the temp probe failing.
Wish they made one for reef tanks.
And I make beer, and have 2 of these on freezers. One has died after two years. And when they fail they will not shut off.
So you could overheat your tank if you dont have a thermostat on the heater.
So I am using it as redundancy to my heater thermostat, but would love something better.
Wish they made one for reef tanks.
And I make beer, and have 2 of these on freezers. One has died after two years. And when they fail they will not shut off.
So you could overheat your tank if you dont have a thermostat on the heater.
So I am using it as redundancy to my heater thermostat, but would love something better.
I find using underpowered heaters eliminates most stuck on worries: But if get stuck on dont really have the umpf to fry the live stock. Secondary back up is my fish room/bedroom has its ac and heater on its own thermostat. So rarely arevthe heaters ever on just enough to push the temp a few degrees.
Some R2R info on it here... https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/who-out-there-is-using-a-bayite-controller.535852/
Yeah, I'm not happy with these controllers that have non-submersible sensors. So obnoxious.
I've been using a Hygger (from amazon) on my 125 and my QT 40. So far I've been really happy with it. I wish it was obvious how much power the actual controller bit would operate, because quite frankly at this point I would buy them, toss the heaters in the bin, and just use the controller part for my big tank.
I've been using a Hygger (from amazon) on my 125 and my QT 40. So far I've been really happy with it. I wish it was obvious how much power the actual controller bit would operate, because quite frankly at this point I would buy them, toss the heaters in the bin, and just use the controller part for my big tank.
Yeah, I was considering Hygger but they don't have the option to buy just the controller so I passed as I wanted the redundancy of a heater with a thermostat.
NinnJinn
Well-Known Member
I wish they made replaceable probes. My inkbird temperature is over 40degrees out of whack in the most that I can calibrate it is 15 degrees ... Have a different controller coming tomorrow.
NinnJinn
Well-Known Member
But be sure to research them for saltwater. I was pretty happy with mine for the first 10 months that I had it and then the temperature probe went crazy on me it's currently saying that things are almost 40 degrees warmer than what they really are and unfortunately on inkbird everything is sealed up so there's no way to replace the probe. While they do have an option to calibrate temperature, it only goes to plus or minus 15 degrees.
I am waiting for the mail as we speak I have a bayite due to come today and I will see how that works out... bayite you can replace the temperature probe
OP
OP
saltypilot
Community Member
SO I ended up getting a good deal on an apex a week after I bought this standalone temp controller lol.
I plan to keep the standalone and implement it as a FailSafe. Question is, what is the best way to do so? Was thinking use two heaters, one via the Apex and one Via the temp controller. That way if either side goes bad there is still some redundancy.
Or would it be best to run the standalone tied into the Apex?
I plan to keep the standalone and implement it as a FailSafe. Question is, what is the best way to do so? Was thinking use two heaters, one via the Apex and one Via the temp controller. That way if either side goes bad there is still some redundancy.
Or would it be best to run the standalone tied into the Apex?
IMHO, the greatest "danger" is that it runs too long and overheats the aquarium. The risk of this, is primarily that the Apex temp probe goes insane, and gives out a value that is 5 degrees too low or something.
So lets say your set-temp is 78. I would set the temp controller to turn off at 80. Then program the Apex to hold the temp at 78. Additionally, program it to turn OFF at something like 65. Then plug the heater into the temp controller, and the controller into the Apex.
Rationale:
1) If the temp is below 65, either you haven't been paying attention at all to your aquarium when the heater failed and the house turned to ice, or the Apex temp probe failed. (solution, $3 digital thermometer, just look at it daily).
2) If the Apex goes insane, and just turns the outlet on forever, the temp controller will shut itself off when it hits 80.
3) In normal operating circumstances, the apex turns it on at 77.8 or whatever, and turns off at 78.2 or whatever, and the controller is well within the range of 80, so it's "on", so everything is wonderful.
Once in awhile, when the heater is on, look at the temp on the controller, and check that it is within a sane range of both the apex, and the little digital one.
I would also use a When statement on the heater. Set some value like, 2 hours, or whatever you feel is safe for your heater size vs aquarium. This is like a circuit breaker. If the heater runs longer than this time, it will switch to OFF, and need to be MANUALLY reset to auto. This means if the Apex decides the temp probe is permanently stuck at say 75, and it needs to run the heater forever, it will shut off after 2 hours no matter what. You can also configure an alarm for this condition.
The only other thing I might do is add a second Apex temp probe as a sanity check against the first one. The most likely bad apex scenario is the temp probe becomes exposed to air, and reads room temperature rather than tank. So each probe should be in a different area of the tank, mounted in a different way.
Now you have like.. 4-5 forms of redundancy, and if you still cook your tank with this setup, I'm not convinced you either pay attention, or could have prevented it.
So lets say your set-temp is 78. I would set the temp controller to turn off at 80. Then program the Apex to hold the temp at 78. Additionally, program it to turn OFF at something like 65. Then plug the heater into the temp controller, and the controller into the Apex.
Rationale:
1) If the temp is below 65, either you haven't been paying attention at all to your aquarium when the heater failed and the house turned to ice, or the Apex temp probe failed. (solution, $3 digital thermometer, just look at it daily).
2) If the Apex goes insane, and just turns the outlet on forever, the temp controller will shut itself off when it hits 80.
3) In normal operating circumstances, the apex turns it on at 77.8 or whatever, and turns off at 78.2 or whatever, and the controller is well within the range of 80, so it's "on", so everything is wonderful.
Once in awhile, when the heater is on, look at the temp on the controller, and check that it is within a sane range of both the apex, and the little digital one.
I would also use a When statement on the heater. Set some value like, 2 hours, or whatever you feel is safe for your heater size vs aquarium. This is like a circuit breaker. If the heater runs longer than this time, it will switch to OFF, and need to be MANUALLY reset to auto. This means if the Apex decides the temp probe is permanently stuck at say 75, and it needs to run the heater forever, it will shut off after 2 hours no matter what. You can also configure an alarm for this condition.
The only other thing I might do is add a second Apex temp probe as a sanity check against the first one. The most likely bad apex scenario is the temp probe becomes exposed to air, and reads room temperature rather than tank. So each probe should be in a different area of the tank, mounted in a different way.
Now you have like.. 4-5 forms of redundancy, and if you still cook your tank with this setup, I'm not convinced you either pay attention, or could have prevented it.
