Temperature question

Something so simple.... I took the top covers off my tank... that’s all. This could have actually been disastrous!

3 lessons learned

1. keep my heaters turned on (I’ll get them on a controller) This one was just full on dumb on my part.
2. discovered techniques to help reduce temperatures
3. never assume a small change won’t have big effects.

thanks everyone!
 
If your other parameters are mostly in line I have found the temp change doesn't matter at all unless you are keeping Acros. I have had a mixed reef for years and the temp in my tank routinely swings 5-6 degrees overnight during the months I turn the heater off. Throughout the year the water temp varies from 73 to 84 and have not lost a single coral other than the acros. I try not to let it stay at the high end or the low for more than a few days otherwise my zoas and LPS start to expelle what I believe to be zooxanthellae. Either that or some kind of stringy waste.
 
I started to get interested in temperature after I fully closed my hood (lost a wrasse, unfortunately) and also installed T5 lighting. Previously my tank had been very stable, within about 0.3-0.5F.

After the hood closure my temperature increased markedly more than what I was expecting. I asked myself “what is representative of the real world?” And broke out some googlefu.

The Australian Institute of Maritime Science (AIMS) have demote weather stations across large parts of the Australian coastline, including the Great Barrier Reef. https://weather.aims.gov.au/#/overview

Here is what I found:

daily temperature swing of about 1 degree C in shallow water, and 0.5 degree C in deeper water was usual (Approx 2F and 1F respectively)

seasonal temperature swing of up 6-10 degree C was typical between Summer and Winter (Approx 10-18F).

I am now less concerned about keeping my tank in a very tight band.

7A9C9C64-DE9A-4D67-BF87-BA46F2F8BB72.png


38D47092-F703-4B79-B68B-C6E9B178680F.png


E075DCE9-E9E9-4BF2-BC0B-BCC480EC2AE3.png
 
I started to get interested in temperature after I fully closed my hood (lost a wrasse, unfortunately) and also installed T5 lighting. Previously my tank had been very stable, within about 0.3-0.5F.

After the hood closure my temperature increased markedly more than what I was expecting. I asked myself “what is representative of the real world?” And broke out some googlefu.

The Australian Institute of Maritime Science (AIMS) have demote weather stations across large parts of the Australian coastline, including the Great Barrier Reef. https://weather.aims.gov.au/#/overview

Here is what I found:

daily temperature swing of about 1 degree C in shallow water, and 0.5 degree C in deeper water was usual (Approx 2F and 1F respectively)

seasonal temperature swing of up 6-10 degree C was typical between Summer and Winter (Approx 10-18F).

I am now less concerned about keeping my tank in a very tight band.

7A9C9C64-DE9A-4D67-BF87-BA46F2F8BB72.png


38D47092-F703-4B79-B68B-C6E9B178680F.png


E075DCE9-E9E9-4BF2-BC0B-BCC480EC2AE3.png
That is very surprising for me. I would have never guessed the temperature swing on that Great Barrier Reef would be that big!
 
I'm the same way but I was just saying that you don't need an Apex to have heater controller redundancy. And if you got a Ranco it doesn't mean you can't get an Apex as well. Also, IIRC you will end up burning out the outlet on the EB8 if you control heat with it. Too many on/off cycles. You could double check that as I've never had an Apex, just something I remember reading.
I’ve been looking for this comment for 2 hours! Lol I knew some recommended a separate controller for my heaters and I couldn’t find it. From what I’ve read, this is a very really concern with the Apex. I am googling this right now!
 
I'm the same way but I was just saying that you don't need an Apex to have heater controller redundancy. And if you got a Ranco it doesn't mean you can't get an Apex as well. Also, IIRC you will end up burning out the outlet on the EB8 if you control heat with it. Too many on/off cycles. You could double check that as I've never had an Apex, just something I remember reading.
This one? Sorry for the font size... copy and paste

RANCO ETC-111000-000 Electric Temperature Control
 
This one? Sorry for the font size... copy and paste

RANCO ETC-111000-000 Electric Temperature Control
That's the one, they also offer a unit that's already wired if you're not comfortable doing it your self or don't want to find the parts needed.
 
That's the one, they also offer a unit that's already wired if you're not comfortable doing it your self or don't want to find the parts needed.
I am looking at these online right now. I have 2 heaters. For the pre-wired, do I need 2 stage or just a one stage?
 
I am looking at these online right now. I have 2 heaters. For the pre-wired, do I need 2 stage or just a one stage?
The two stage (211000) is for controlling both heating and cooling at the same time where the single stage (111000) is just for controlling heating.
 
I case you haven't focused on it, make sure you have sufficient RODI for you top off to account for the increased evaporation.

If you use kalk in your ATO, you will need to reformulate
Still undecided on Kalk : ) Right now, the only thing my RODI system is doing is top off. So what, a couple of gallons per week? .I am about to start creating the water I use for my tank (I have been buying water up to this point.) ....another week...
 
I have a 29 gal open top plus sumps and a lot of flow so my top off gets to about 4 gals a week in the winter and 3g even in our humid summers. It's hard to grasp how much water will evaporate until you look at the empty ATO container.

you will need to keep an eye on in closely initially so better to make extra until you can better predict. And for this reason hold off on the kalk.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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