The dinos that never die!

[Chip]

My Dino story.
Been the hobby for over 28 years. Never seen anything like it.
After losing all of my SPS in my 600 gallon reef tank.
Ostreopsis I believe is my problem. I have tried all the regiments I could read. I also tried all the bacterias, UV sterilizer, hydrogen peroxide, bubble scrubbing, Dino X, raising the temperature to 82f, phytoplankton, Dr Tim's regiment this website's regiment, 3 month black outs. And of course raise nitrates 25ppm and phosphates .1ppm Ect. (Silicates was a problem) my 7 stage RO system would not remove the .25 ppm of silicates out of my rodi system. Even running through 1 cation and 1 anion and 1 mix bed. Go to figure out that silicates do not register on a TDS meter. I can turn the light off for 5 days they seem to disappear but a week later with the lights on they come back every time. This has been going on for over a year.
https://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/98301

 

[zalick]

Hi chip - I understand your pain. I'm In the same boat. I've been reefing 25yrs. Never heard of dinos until 2 years ago. Been battling them since.

What UV do you have and what flow through it?

I've found UV to be the most effective. Right now I have a 57w in the DT with about 1000gph and a 114w in sump with 700gph. This knocks them back but I haven't gotten rid of them yet...

 

[Chip]

Yes, I have a 150watt and a 55watt in Main display of my 600. Doesn't seem to be doing a thing. Water looks clear with the rocks the walls the sand bed are swimming in dinos.

 

[Chip]

Flow is about 450 gph

 

[zalick]

Flow is about 450 gph

You want to achieve 180,000 µW/cm2 with 3x turnover in your display.

You could increase flow in your 55w to 800gph. Any way you can plumb your 150w to the DT?

 

[Chip]

You want to achieve 180,000 µW/cm2 with 3x turnover in your display.

You could increase flow in your 55w to 800gph. Any way you can plumb your 150w to the DT?

I could definitely increase the flow but I thought I read somewhere it was 950 gph pentair 150. Now you got me second guessing it.

 

[Reefer1978]

For what it's worth - I don't think you can fully get rid of dinos, just like all other algae. It will come back if you let the nutrients get down.

 

[zalick]

I could definitely increase the flow but I thought I read somewhere it was 950 gph pentair 150. Now you got me second guessing it.

bRS has a video and recommends 3x DT flow. You'll find conflicting info on exposure but minimum seems to be 180,000 µW/cm2
So if I were you I'd try to get 1800gph with 180,000 µW/cm2 exposure in the DT. This will mean plumbing your 150w.

Even better would be if you can plumb both uv together in the DT. That's next on my list.

 

[Steve Erekson]

If the sandbed seems to be the main issue, perhaps consider removing the sandbed. Sounds like you've tried almost everything else. I've had both ostreo and amphinidium but not to this extent of difficulty

 

[lazlodawg]

Good luck, man. Fought that stuff for a year before my tank became a total loss and I ended up rebooting. It was so satisfying dumping five gallons of bleach into that tank and watching the dinos die. I like to imagine I could hear every cell scream in agony as it melted.
Okay.. sorry..I'm better now.

 

[Chip]

Uv sterilizer didn't do anything. At 980 gph. I all ready did a complete reboot 2 years ago. Bleached the entire system and it came back in two months. I don't think a UV would ever work because they're in the sand the walls and The Rock. Never seem to be free floating and they're there in the night.

 

[Chip]

I would have to think it's something in the water. Although ICP test says otherwise.

 

[Jrainey312]

Have you looked at them under a microscope to identify them?

 

[dwest]

I too am a longtime reefer. Dinos are the worst. Two years ago I almost quit the hobby because of them.

I am wondering if you have multiple types of dinos. The UV you have should help with ostreopsis, but would not help with amphidinium which you might have as well.

I would ensure the UV is being fed and returned to the display tank. People don’t like this step, but it’s likely temporary. I would have 3 tank volumes or less total flowing through your UV’s. This goes against manufacturers recommendations, but is in line with folks who have successfully eliminated dinos.

Make sure that you have measurable nitrates and phosphates to encourage algae growth.

I eventually removed my sand to get rid of the amphidinium in my tank. The combination of UV, nutrients, and sand removal is what worked for me.

Good luck.

 

[Chip]

I always thought there'd have to be a natural predator to these things. I just don't know what you're thriving off of.

 

[CMMorgan]

+ 1 @dwest ... running UV through the sump is ineffective. A closed loop in and out of the DT is the best avenue. Definitely feels like a multi-pest problem. I was hot with cyano and dinos at the same time. When I went dark, I treated for cyano at the same time with chemiclean. I added an airstone to the DT and upped my flow. Tank hadn't looked that clean in months. It's holding on. What it taught me is that I was treating locally and not looking at my global problems. If you have more than one issue and not realize it... everything you are doing may be for nothing.

 

[Chip]

I tried to post a picture for some reason it did not allow it. I believe they are Ostreopsis.

 

[xshmoox]

If it’s that bad have you looked into bleach dosing. I tried everything else on my last tank before a move and that’s what worked for me.

 

[Chip]

I have two uv in main display. It did not even touch them. UV is not the fix. They never seem to move off the rocks sand or walls

 

[Chip]

If it’s that bad have you looked into bleach dosing. I tried everything else on my last tank before a move and that’s what worked for me.

I've heard of people doing that. It just sounds too crazy to me plus I have corals and fish in the tank.