The down sizing begins!!!

[Manose]

I have my gyres setup to run 2min from each side and I have them on the hydros.
They start at 7am at 10% and go up 10% each hour till 12pm when my lights are full and they stay at 50% until the lights ramp down.
I don't know how most people run their gyres but this seems to be less chaotic and more of a nice gentle flow everywhere.
The only chaos that happens is when the current changes direction and the coral gets turbid water from one flow hitting the other.
If anyone knows a better way then let me know but this seems nice.

 

[cvrle1]

Saw this thread when you just started it, and then completely forgot about it till today

Great work, tank looks amazing. Qustion on your NP lights. Do you still use same intensity for all the channels as you did on previous tank, or did you change that as well? Mind posting your current schedule if it did change?

 

[Manose]

Saw this thread when you just started it, and then completely forgot about it till today

Great work, tank looks amazing. Qustion on your NP lights. Do you still use same intensity for all the channels as you did on previous tank, or did you change that as well? Mind posting your current schedule if it did change?

Hey and thank you I changed the way I am running the lights as I went to just the led's and rented a par meter as I wanted just lps and softies so I made a new schedule and have been on it for awhile.
here it is

 

[Manose]

So I got my icp results back from ATI and was really shocked at what I saw.
I have noticed things not acting really well not all but some and the test showed I had really high tin in the water.
ATI test
I went over the entire tank and took out all pumps and magnets only to find nothing corroded or rusty and then at the very end look at the light in my sump and bam

I read all over the forums and found that this can do it as it was over the water on my sump and the fan going.
This has to be culprit as I found not a trace anywhere else in my whole house. I even checked my salt container and all.

 

[najer]

Glad you found it.

 

[Manose]

Glad you found it.

Yea my duncan was blowing his heads off and they really only do that if something is bad wrong.

 

[RJKain-777]

Tried again today to find some people to help bring the tank inside and no luck. I bet that I am the only one on this whole forum that has this problem. Pretty sad as I have all I need to get it going

Don’t worry, your not the only one! My local group makes it hard to find help with out them wanting tons of money for doing so.
I’ve moved my Red Sea 425 on my own, and my 180 gallon marine land on my own too many times to count.

 

[RJKain-777]

Your tank looks amazing BTW, glad to see you didn’t give up with all the challenges.

 

[Manose]

Your tank looks amazing BTW, glad to see you didn’t give up with all the challenges.

Thanks for coming and checking out my build. I'm working on getting things working correctly now. Taking the light off the sump seemed to drop the ph a little.

 

[Manose]

So I have lost a lot of coral and will not be posting pics as it is very disheartening

 

[najer]

Any idea what happened?

 

[Manose]

Any idea what happened?

I really have no clue what is going on. I had the icp test come back with all that tin and removed the problem but I'm still waiting as I need more salt to do some changes.
The coral that is doing good is the zoas the very big leather coral and of all things the acanthophyllia and blastos.
The latest torch I bought seems to be doing great also.
The coral that was lost is all my older coral that was brought over from my other tank.

 

[najer]

I really have no clue what is going on. I had the icp test come back with all that tin and removed the problem but I'm still waiting as I need more salt to do some changes.
The coral that is doing good is the zoas the very big leather coral and of all things the acanthophyllia and blastos.
The latest torch I bought seems to be doing great also.
The coral that was lost is all my older coral that was brought over from my other tank.

Make sure your carbon is fresh.

 

[Manose]

Make sure your carbon is fresh.

Oh yea I will change that now as I forgot about it

 

[Manose]

Slowly finding out why the tank has not been doing well with the tin in the water and now another problem that was fixed really fast.
So I showed the rust on the screw heads well there is more to report. The washers that I used to mount my brs reactor were also rusty along with a little discovery hanging on my overflow box:

That's correct a pair of rusty tweezers hanging on the overflow box :mad::mad::mad::mad:

So just when I thought that all my problems were over I checked the temperature with the new Hanna salinity/temp tester that I got and it said 76.6
I then reset my inkbird and it showed 76.6 the same temperature while my apex showed 77.8.
I calibrated my apex to the temperature of the other 2 and no the tank is at a more proper 77.5.
I have noticed things seem to be more perky and 2 pieces that i was thinking were goners have some real nice polyp extension.
I have the inbird set at 25.5c(78f) and it seems to be keeping my temp from 77.4-78.
I use the celcius mode as it has a more accurate deviation of .1c

 

[Peach02]

Well it’s good you found the problems and fixed them great to hear that some corals are recovering aswell

 

[Blammomike]

Red Sea modified the v3 740 by putting 2 returns and enlarging the overflow pipe to 40mm(about 1 1/4in).
Having bigger size pipe iis great but at the base where it goes through the bulkheads it goes down to 32mm then back to 40mm all the way to the sump.
So after looking at many ways of modifying the plumping I chose to go with the part R42221 and unscrew the 16mm nipple and put on a 32mm to one inch adapter then from there go to 1 1/4 in pvc. So in essence its the same thing they have done with the stock piping except I will be using 1 1/4 pvc instead of 40mm.
Here is a picture of the size on the stock overflow tubing:

I ordered 4x R42221 parts from https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RRS42221

Next ordered a 32mm to 1in adapter here- https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?p=PVC-Fittings-Metric-Adapters&p_id=417-6127&xm=on&ppinc=detail

Next unscrew the 16mm nipple off the r42221 part

Screw the r42221 part onto the bulkhead stock plumbing

Then I will glue the 32mm to 1in adapter onto the 42221 adapter. This is a real good fit as the 42221 is 32mm so the adapter fits perfectly

I will run 1in all the way to the returns and run 1 1/4 to the overflow lines

So I just tried this set-up. It doesn't feel like a tight fit between the adapter and the union. It's that right? Extra pvc glue? I haven't glued anything yet but just checking.

 

[Manose]

So I just tried this set-up. It doesn't feel like a tight fit between the adapter and the union. It's that right? Extra pvc glue? I haven't glued anything yet but just checking.

My fittings were not really tight either but fit together well. I just used pvc-abs glue and it worked well

 

[Blammomike]

My fittings were not really tight either but fit together well. I just used pvc-abs glue and it worked well

Did you use pvc to abs glue on all fittings? Or just the red sea part to the adaptor. Or the adaptor to the union?If so what brand was it?

 

[Manose]

Did you use pvc to abs glue on all fittings? Or just the red sea part to the adaptor. Or the adaptor to the union?If so what brand was it?

I only used pvc-abs glue on the redsae adapter to the 32mm pvc adapter. The rest of the plumbing was pvc so I used Gorilla pvc glue.
Here are the 2 glues I used.
this was for the abs-pvc

this was for everything else