The following test results are things going like they should

[Keachj06]

I attached a picture of my test results from the start of cycling this tank. It's a 75 GAL have 3 damsels in there now they appear to be doing fine however my concern is the nitrate. do those numbers look on par with what's expected? I have about 65 lbs of rock I started with base rock and added about 15 lbs of live to get the cycle moving. Everything else has remained relatively the same.
Also I did about a 30% water change the day I found my nitrates at 10PPM

 

[Homestead_Dad]

I'm new too and also cycling my tank. I would't worry about Nitrate that much until it gets above 20 but that ammonia is high and shouldn't be there those last 3 days since you have nitrates and no nitrites. When did you add the damsels?

 

[Keachj06]

The 3 damsels have been there Since Jan 8th

 

[Pole04]

What caused your salinity to spike? The spike seems unrelated to the water change. Are you topping off with RODI or saltwater?

 

[ahiggins]

what worries me is that your ammonia converted to trites (they just didnt show up on the test) then to trates but then the ammonia returns. I dont think youve completed the cycle yet. If you have, it was only a mini cycle. Whatever waste was accumulated/broken down on Jan 27 overloaded whatever nitrifying bacteria you had and caused an ammonia spike.
Keep at it youll get there
Also, when you made up your tank water, what salt did you use? a lot of the "pro" or coral designed salts make up at a very high alk...which is causing a spike after your water change.
Have you thought about adding dr tims? I have more than enough live rock in my tanks but I always add a bottle to new tanks as soon as the water goes in. Ive always skipped the nitrogen cycle.

 

[PatW]

At the end of the cycle, you should have only nitrates. The important thing is to have 0 ammonia. Ammonia is quite toxic, even at low levels. You might be using the API ammonia test. It can produce a false low reading of ammonia even when ammonia is zero.

 

[Keachj06]

At the end of the cycle, you should have only nitrates. The important thing is to have 0 ammonia. Ammonia is quite toxic, even at low levels. You might be using the API ammonia test. It can produce a false low reading of ammonia even when ammonia is zero.

I am using the API test kit I feel a little better now, what test kits do you recommend for all parameters?

 

[FishGuyBri]

My API always says I have high ammonia but I have two seachem badges, new, that say zero. I don't trust the API anymore and will be switching

 

[ironman20725]

What controller are you using?

 

[PatW]

The API tests can be fine. The ALK and CA test are good for quick and dirty. Not the most accurate but usually close enough. The NO3 test is fine if you are dealing with high levels. I like to keep my NO3 low but measurable (I am talking about less than 1 PPM) and the Red Sea Pro is good for that. API is fine for just knowing that your nitrates are not pretty high. I like the Salifert test for Mg, but until you get into corals, you really don't have to fool with Mg.

In my reading on these boards, the Salifert tests tend to be favored.

The one that is bothersome is the ammonia. Any ammonia is a red flag and the API test tends to give a low ammonia result even when none is present.

 

[ahiggins]

Ive used Red Sea before, I like them.
I like Salifert for the ease of testing though. Its only a one or two step instead of four or five with Red Sea.

 

[Keachj06]

So I picked up the Red Sea test kit for alk, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite, probably going to grab salifert for others like ca, mg eventually and I was also looking at the Hanna checkers I just don't know how accurate those are and which ones are the best. Thanks I feel somewhat better about API detecting ammonia even if there may not be any ill test with the red sea and compare the results