The Garden -- Rakies shallow SPS cube

[blackizzz]

It assuredly does. I made a thread about this exact topic with these exact fixtures in the lighting section. The oy person that replied had taken oar readings showing that the aquatic life 4 bulb was only 21% more par than an LET retrofit.

I considered replacing the reflectors may make the difference. Although it was pointed out that the Aquatic life fixture also has HEP ballasts, they may not be the same ones ATI uses.

Because of that I am also considering switching out the ballast for the ones ATI use. For $30-40 it seems worth it.

You can definitely try that, otherwise reflectors are $15 per piece, so even replacing those could maybe be worth it.
ATI claims to use a more reflective coating on their reflectors, admitting that they do require more "tender care" as to not scratching them.

 

[Rakie]

You can definitely try that, otherwise reflectors are $15 per piece, so even replacing those could maybe be worth it.
ATI claims to use a more reflective coating on their reflectors, admitting that they do require more "tender care" as to not scratching them.

Yep. reflectors are a game changer! I remember when t5ho wasnt capable of sustaining SPS. People freaked out when ATI came out and was not oy capable of keeping SPS, but if burning it. That was when I started in middle school.

 

[SDboatguy]

Thanks for the input the other day,really appreciate it. Looking forward to seeing the results on your tank !

 

[Rakie]

Thanks for the input the other day,really appreciate it. Looking forward to seeing the results on your tank !

No problem, but I noticed I didn't specify what the WWC settings were, not everybody knows that one. Basically WWC sets all the blues and violet/UV to 100%, and all the other colors to 20% (AB+ is at 24% each).

My personal settings are: UV/Violet/Royal Blue/Blue at 100% ---- Warm White/White/Green/Red at 40% (Peak for 8 hours)

I also forgot I have changed my lighting a little while ago, for 1 hour of PURE royal blue pop, so I have amended that below

Ramping: 1 hour ramp up (WWC Settings), 8 hour peak (My settings), 4.5 hour ramp down (2.5 hours AB+, 2 hours WWC settings).

Ramp Up --> WWC settings: UV/V/RB/B -- 100%, WW/W/G/R -- 20%

Ramp Down --> Settings: AB+ (2.5 hours) then WWC settings (One hour)

Ramp Down LAST HOUR ONLY: Royal Blue only LED, all other channels off

 

[Rakie]

Thanks for the input the other day,really appreciate it. Looking forward to seeing the results on your tank !

Have you decided which bulbs you want to use?

 

[SDboatguy]

Still thinking on the bulbs. I’m gonna hold off a bit. I’m changing the Hydra settings to the SPS AB + equivalent, with a small adjusted white peak midday (about an hour at 40%) Actually dropping the total wattage ,dropping the white from 60%to 20% and bumping V and UV up some. It will be a longer peak period but at lower intensity. So I plan on a month or so to let the critters acclimate , then rotate new bulbs in, kinda leaning towards ATI Actinic , B+,C+ and either a tropic or second C+.

 

[Rakie]

Still thinking on the bulbs. I’m gonna hold off a bit. I’m changing the Hydra settings to the SPS AB + equivalent, with a small adjusted white peak midday (about an hour at 40%) Actually dropping the total wattage ,dropping the white from 60%to 20% and bumping V and UV up some. It will be a longer peak period but at lower intensity. So I plan on a month or so to let the critters acclimate , then rotate new bulbs in, kinda leaning towards ATI Actinic , B+,C+ and either a tropic or second C+.

I am not a fan of the AI Hydra "AB+", I think the greens, reds, and whites are all too low. Even if the spectrometer doesn't... Having had them next to each other, they just aren't the same.

Ironically... Bringing the Whites/Greens/Red in the 20-25% range made it visually comparable. I ran a hydra on my frag tank and Radion on my display, so I had them right next to each other and the BRS setting just didn't look the same at all.

I would consider NOT lowering the whites/greens/reds, but make sure the Blues and UV's are all at 100%. From then, lower the OVERALL intensity instead of the individual LED intensity.

 

[SDboatguy]

I’m actually not using the BRS AB+ , I’m trying the R2R one that they had in the video. It is definitely bluer than my previous settings. I may rethink the end settings and customize a bit more , leaving the white channel elevated for more time and use AB+ for ramp times...

 

[Rakie]

The baby RRUSA Rainbow Blossom loving my friends tank.

Still not huge, but you can see some growth here!

 

[RichtheReefer21]

The baby RRUSA Rainbow Blossom loving my friends tank.

Still not huge, but you can see some growth here!

Wowwww. Niiiiice progress

 

[Rakie]

Week 1 of vibrant complete. Random SPS and bubble algae shots.

Big photo dump -- in no particular order.

With my Actinic T5 on everything pops more in photos... In the future I will have to turn saturation down.

 

[Rakie]

And some more pics.

 

[najer]

Great pics, the corals look really happy and healthy.

 

[Craigb350]

No problem, but I noticed I didn't specify what the WWC settings were, not everybody knows that one. Basically WWC sets all the blues and violet/UV to 100%, and all the other colors to 20% (AB+ is at 24% each).

My personal settings are: UV/Violet/Royal Blue/Blue at 100% ---- Warm White/White/Green/Red at 40% (Peak for 8 hours)

I also forgot I have changed my lighting a little while ago, for 1 hour of PURE royal blue pop, so I have amended that below






Ramp Up --> WWC settings: UV/V/RB/B -- 100%, WW/W/G/R -- 20%

Ramp Down --> Settings: AB+ (2.5 hours) then WWC settings (One hour)

Ramp Down LAST HOUR ONLY: Royal Blue only LED, all other channels off

I’m wanting to head down the wwc route,

Need some help, I currently run leds just peak for a period of 6 hours with all the blues at 100% and whites greens reds etc at 40%,

I have recently set up 4 t5 tubes running all blue plus, at the min I have the t5s on just for one hour in the middle of the led schedule, I want to swap this so I run the t5s longer like wwc, but I need to do a slow change as to not shock the corals, where can I find more information on wwc lighting schedule? I don’t know where to start with my lights lol

 

[SDboatguy]

I thought I had a bubble algae issue... you win. But looks like it getting handled, I’m thinking I need to rethink my “clean up” crew... turbo snail underneath that

 

[WallyB]

It's up.

All bulbs are 4 ATI Actinics.

Raised lighting from 8" off the water to 10" off the water. Even helps the radion with spread.

Next I will be removing the radion diffuser.

The hanging kit was very long... I was forced to improvise, or at it's highest the fixture would be less than 4" off the jump screen, and about 5.5" off the waterline.

I won't lie, I'm conflicted on bulb choice... I am very happy with actinic bulbs to help with color. Adding the Actinics with a cheasy 2 bulb fixture helped bring out more color in some of my more finicky SPS, which Is why I'm now running 4 actinics. At the same time, if I were to throw on a pair of AquaBlue Specials, and Coral+ bubls with a heavy 6500k spectrum growth would seriously take off.

So what do I want most -- More growth, or improved color? Decisions decisions.

Nice. VERY NICE!!
Would you ever consider a Purple Plus? I love mine, but I just switched my PP out of Non-Dimmable section into Dimmable (after burn in) since PP it too much at full power.

 

[WallyB]

It assuredly does. I made a thread about this exact topic with these exact fixtures in the lighting section. The oy person that replied had taken oar readings showing that the aquatic life 4 bulb was only 21% more par than an LET retrofit.

I considered replacing the reflectors may make the difference. Although it was pointed out that the Aquatic life fixture also has HEP ballasts, they may not be the same ones ATI uses.

Because of that I am also considering switching out the ballast for the ones ATI use. For $30-40 it seems worth it.

ATI uses HEP Ballasts. I checked and that's why I got them for my DIY Hybird Fixture.
One thing to consider is the Dimmable HEP T5 Ballast. It runs a bit lower PAR than a Non-Dimmable version. You MUST burn in the T5 for at least 50 HRS (at 100%) before Dimming.
Nothing is better than a Dimmable Ballast for Blending T5's (if you have mixed T5 Bulbs).

 

[Rakie]

I’m wanting to head down the wwc route,

Need some help, I currently run leds just peak for a period of 6 hours with all the blues at 100% and whites greens reds etc at 40%,

I have recently set up 4 t5 tubes running all blue plus, at the min I have the t5s on just for one hour in the middle of the led schedule, I want to swap this so I run the t5s longer like wwc, but I need to do a slow change as to not shock the corals, where can I find more information on wwc lighting schedule? I don’t know where to start with my lights lol

So firstly, here is a (45 minute video) on the BRS lighting schedule


The previous version given to the public was inaccurate (the one I'm using). It was written by EcoTech with Coral Labs. Either they changed things, OR, they averaged things out to make it simpler for the average person.

_____________________________________

WWC Old (simple) version -- Lights on during store hours (12 hours)
Ultra Violet, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Warm white, White, Green, Red -- 20%

_____________________________________

NEW WWC Accurate Lighting -- Day schedule before store opens 7:30am to 12pm
Intensity 75%
Ultra Violet, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Warm White -- 0%
White, Green -- 50%
Red -- 10%

NEW WWC Accurate Lighting -- AFTER store opens (notice whites) 12:30pm to 6:45pm
Intensity 75%
Ultra Violet, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Warm white, White, Green, Red -- 0%

T5's on for 8 hours, middle of day.

_____________________________________

During the day I personally run my lights with the same white/green/reds as you -- 40%. I think these are extremely valuable spectrums for growth and overall color.

As for T5's, Blue+ bulbs are what people consider a happy medium for Growth + Color. In my opinion, Coral+ does the same but better, although it's not as pleasing to the eye. A saying I love... never half butt two things; Whole butt one thing.

Atcinics = Color.
ABS / 6500k = Growth.
Coral+ = My personal favorite half butt light.

The ATI Coral+ bulb is the most complete spectrum in a single bulb that ATI has ever made. It's just too white with a light pink hue for most people. But if you can "drown it out", and stomach the color... I think it's surely the best option for a single bulb "that does it all".

I thought I had a bubble algae issue... you win. But looks like it getting handled, I’m thinking I need to rethink my “clean up” crew... turbo snail underneath that

Yep. This is what happens when you're a combination of lazy/busy/unlucky. it was all from a single zoa frag plug, I scrubbed them off a few times with no issue (the spore thing is a myth FYI). But eventually my whole tank had a light peppering of micro bubble algae all over the rockwork one morning after a bacterial bloom. My friend @WallyB thinks it went sexual on me. Possible, I guess! Emphasis on guess.

Nice. VERY NICE!!
Would you ever consider a Purple Plus? I love mine, but I just switched my PP out of Non-Dimmable section into Dimmable (after burn in) since PP it too much at full power.

I like purple plus, but I don't think it does anything the combination of Radions and Actinics doesn't do. I would be more interested in adding a single C+ towards the back of the fixture, as some of the corals at the top rocks towards the back of the tank get much less light. And C+ is the most complete spectrum ATI makes in a single bulb.

ATI uses HEP Ballasts. I checked and that's why I got them for my DIY Hybird Fixture.
One thing to consider is the Dimmable HEP T5 Ballast. It runs a bit lower PAR than a Non-Dimmable version. You MUST burn in the T5 for at least 50 HRS (at 100%) before Dimming.
Nothing is better than a Dimmable Ballast for Blending T5's (if you have mixed T5 Bulbs).

A friend of mine is trying to get me to get a 4 bulb ATI ballast (HEP) so it cuts down on cords as well. I'm considering it... But not dimmable. I want full power, and any dimming effects I need are done by the radion -- I have my 4 bulbs turn on specifically after ramping up and turn off before ramping down. I'm also keeping my fixture much higher off the water now, from 8" to 11", so that impacts par a little as well!

One of the things that made the Aquatic Life fixture a valid option for me is it has HEP ballasts. But as someone wisely pointed out, that doesn't mean they are the same quality, or same amount of power. There are a bunch of things I don't know about with electricity/ballasts that could impact it's performance. One thing I firmly believe though, the ATI ones are beastly, and very well proven. So the ATI replacement ballasts are likely what I'd get. Probably not dimmable, and probably a 4x24 ballast opposed to a pair of 2x24's.

 

[Craigb350]

So firstly, here is a (45 minute video) on the BRS lighting schedule


The previous version given to the public was inaccurate (the one I'm using). It was written by EcoTech with Coral Labs. Either they changed things, OR, they averaged things out to make it simpler for the average person.

_____________________________________

WWC Old (simple) version -- Lights on during store hours (12 hours)
Ultra Violet, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Warm white, White, Green, Red -- 20%

_____________________________________

NEW WWC Accurate Lighting -- Day schedule before store opens 7:30am to 12pm
Intensity 75%
Ultra Violet, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Warm White -- 0%
White, Green -- 50%
Red -- 10%

NEW WWC Accurate Lighting -- AFTER store opens (notice whites) 12:30pm to 6:45pm
Intensity 75%
Ultra Violet, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Warm white, White, Green, Red -- 0%

T5's on for 8 hours, middle of day.

_____________________________________

During the day I personally run my lights with the same white/green/reds as you -- 40%. I think these are extremely valuable spectrums for growth and overall color.

As for T5's, Blue+ bulbs are what people consider a happy medium for Growth + Color. In my opinion, Coral+ does the same but better, although it's not as pleasing to the eye. A saying I love... never half butt two things; Whole butt one thing.

Atcinics = Color.
ABS / 6500k = Growth.
Coral+ = My personal favorite half butt light.

The ATI Coral+ bulb is the most complete spectrum in a single bulb that ATI has ever made. It's just too white with a light pink hue for most people. But if you can "drown it out", and stomach the color... I think it's surely the best option for a single bulb "that does it all".




Yep. This is what happens when you're a combination of lazy/busy/unlucky. it was all from a single zoa frag plug, I scrubbed them off a few times with no issue (the spore thing is a myth FYI). But eventually my whole tank had a light peppering of micro bubble algae all over the rockwork one morning after a bacterial bloom. My friend @WallyB thinks it went sexual on me. Possible, I guess! Emphasis on guess.




I like purple plus, but I don't think it does anything the combination of Radions and Actinics doesn't do. I would be more interested in adding a single C+ towards the back of the fixture, as some of the corals at the top rocks towards the back of the tank get much less light. And C+ is the most complete spectrum ATI makes in a single bulb.




A friend of mine is trying to get me to get a 4 bulb ATI ballast (HEP) so it cuts down on cords as well. I'm considering it... But not dimmable. I want full power, and any dimming effects I need are done by the radion -- I have my 4 bulbs turn on specifically after ramping up and turn off before ramping down. I'm also keeping my fixture much higher off the water now, from 8" to 11", so that impacts par a little as well!

One of the things that made the Aquatic Life fixture a valid option for me is it has HEP ballasts. But as someone wisely pointed out, that doesn't mean they are the same quality, or same amount of power. There are a bunch of things I don't know about with electricity/ballasts that could impact it's performance. One thing I firmly believe though, the ATI ones are beastly, and very well proven. So the ATI replacement ballasts are likely what I'd get. Probably not dimmable, and probably a 4x24 ballast opposed to a pair of 2x24's.

Thanks for the video, will give it a watch,

I’m hoping to borrow a par meter today so I can see what the current settings are doing,

Which ever way I go I will have to transition slowly, so do you run your t5s for the bulk of the day?

 

[Rakie]

Thanks for the video, will give it a watch,

I’m hoping to borrow a par meter today so I can see what the current settings are doing,

Which ever way I go I will have to transition slowly, so do you run your t5s for the bulk of the day?

It's worth a watch, but if you don't have 45 minutes I broke down the only part that matters. In fact... The info is cool, but they could have an edited version of the same video that's like 10 minutes long lol.

I run my T5's for 7 hours per day currently. I also have my fixture 10-11" off the water to help with light dispersion.

I don't really worry about par -- My Radion is at 100% intensity. If you move slowly, corals can take some serious par. Just a year ago 40% intensity was burning my SPS up, now I can throw on 100w of additional T5 and they don't mind a bit. I'm getting a growth spurt from my more stagnant corals to boot honestly.