The impossible is happening

Your answer may be on this thread

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what’s-happening-to-my-alk.821599/

The rise you may be observing now may well be connected to the issue you had a few months ago, the accumulated precipitation that hasn’t dissolved may be just getting released now.
 
As others are stating here. You need some good Hanna testers or good dry kits for testing and a refractometer for salinity. I would second that I would not be solely testing the parms with apex. Not reccomended.
I agree , I own the Hanna test kits as well as a BRS refractometer. My alk is actually higher when I test with hanna
 
Your answer may be on this thread

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what’s-happening-to-my-alk.821599/

The rise you may be observing now may well be connected to the issue you had a few months ago, the accumulated precipitation that hasn’t dissolved may be just getting released now.
Do you really think the issue can lay dormant for that long ? It was at the moment I stopped dosing two part. Which did correct that problem and over a year later having the opposite issue. In that case the sand is the issue, correct? Over the last two weeks I’ve removed about 80% of the sand and the number still rises
 
I know you should never change multiple things at once but my plan is to:
*Switch salt, going with Red Sea blue bucket
*Switching out ro/di filter
*If those two things don’t work I’ll remove 100% of my sand, this is the last result because I’d have to get rid of my yellow coris wrasse that I’ve had since the start.
 
I know you should never change multiple things at once but my plan is to:
*Switch salt, going with Red Sea blue bucket
*Switching out ro/di filter
*If those two things don’t work I’ll remove 100% of my sand, this is the last result because I’d have to get rid of my yellow coris wrasse that I’ve had since the start.
Yes, sounds like you have tried many different approaches/testing regimens; switching to RS blue bucket makes sense to me and you can not go wrong changing filters. Good luck
 
I know you should never change multiple things at once but my plan is to:
*Switch salt, going with Red Sea blue bucket
*Switching out ro/di filter
*If those two things don’t work I’ll remove 100% of my sand, this is the last result because I’d have to get rid of my yellow coris wrasse that I’ve had since the start.
Alk does not increase if you are not dosing something.
Do you know the tank pH?

Stop the water changes and see what happens over a week.
 
Recommend testing with a backup test kit like Salifert and send in an ICP test to check if something like heavy metal has stopped alk consumption.
 
Do you really think the issue can lay dormant for that long ? It was at the moment I stopped dosing two part. Which did correct that problem and over a year later having the opposite issue. In that case the sand is the issue, correct? Over the last two weeks I’ve removed about 80% of the sand and the number still rises
It’s just a plausible guess from the information you gave. I believe you may need to add more information to the thread like.

Full list of parameters including no3 and po4
Full picture of the display showing how much coral is in the DT
Full picture of sump and filtration methods used
any additives that you may be adding
 
Yes, sounds like you have tried many different approaches/testing regimens; switching to RS blue bucket makes sense to me and you can not go wrong changing filters. Good luck
Thanks, I’ll follow up. To let you guys know the outcome, just in case anyone else runs into this problem
 
How’s your Mag? I may have missed some info on this convo so sorry if this question is repetitive.
Every time I dose mag my alk goes banana.
 
It’s just a plausible guess from the information you gave. I believe you may need to add more information to the thread like.

Full list of parameters including no3 and po4
Full picture of the display showing how much coral is in the DT
Full picture of sump and filtration methods used
any additives that you may be adding
One big piece of Marco rock 6 main sps with about 10-12 on frag rack , sump is skimmer, roller filter and heater. I’ll get up dates no3 and po4 today
 

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One big piece of Marco rock 6 main sps with about 10-12 on frag rack , sump is skimmer, roller filter and heater. I’ll get up dates no3 and po4 today
Thank you how old are the corals placed in the Marco sculpture?
 
Recommend testing with a backup test kit like Salifert and send in an ICP test to check if something like heavy metal has stopped alk consumption.
I had high levels of metal and iron i believe ( it was about a month ago I got the results) I thought it was maybe because I leave my algae scraper in the tank.
 
Here's how I view different test methods
1. Apex/Trident - constant monitoring. Most useful for trends/changes. Not just for alk, but also Ca, Mg, pH, ORP, salinity.
2. Hanna - Periodic spot-checks to verify the Apex/Trident Combo
3. Salifert - Gold standard. Used when "omg what is happening I need to get to the bottom of this" and need to regain trust in my measurements. And a calibrated refractometer for salinity numbers.

I've tested my salifert kits against reference standards and they're always the closest to expected which is why I use them as my baseline. I would not trust the Apex/Trident to be the end-all of testing because there are myriad things that can effect the Trident results that are either harder to control or just don't exist when compared to the Salifert test. Things like: microbubbles, debris in sample or reagent tubes (and other sample/volume related variables), calibration factors, etc.


Going backwards to show my method: I calibrate my Trident using my tank water. I measure a sample with Salifert kits, then immediately run the Trident calibration cycle using the numbers obtained from the Salifert kits. I also determine the calibration offset required by my alk Hanna checker at the same time.

This process was born out of implementing the trident, and my experiences trying to get repeatable measurements aligned with other (more trusted) test methods. Given I've had the Trident less than a month, I still need to determine how often I'm going to perform this calibration process. Needs to be often enough to keep drift in-check, but not so often as to cover up any small changes in tank parameters. And I'm considering ditching the hanna altogether.



Now that that's out of the way -- have you verified your Trident numbers against a standard titration kit? Also, it looks like your alk has been swinging quite a bit as you make changes to try to get to the bottom of this. That's certainly impacting growth. I wouldn't do anything until I verified the Trident with a titration test.

Edit - Just saw that you've tested with other methods and the results are higher than trident. If you're testing your replacement water and it doesn't have high alk, I don't think it makes much sense to switch salts. Feels more like a hail mary based on hope than a data-driven decision, to me.

Something's adding alk to your tank, and I also suspect that it's related to your previous alk issue. Even months later. You're currently at what, 8.6 or so? Take a a few breaths and let things go for a bit and monitor. Step in and make changes only if you start seeing alk burn (or increase nutrients to make the increased alk more palatable to your coral). Right now, you're nowhere close to "too high." It seems like you're stuck in a correction cycle and you might be doing more harm than good by trying to throw everything at the wall and seeing what sticks.
 
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I’m use a refractometer from brs
Do you calibrate it before each test? If so, how? Do you use a calibration fluid at 35 ppt or RODI water?

I also didn’t see an ATO in you cabinet. What do you use to top off your tank?
 

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