The Maelstrom 120

Ooooh, that sucks! Or if you didn't want to return everything you could get a reducer and run it all 3/4 until the bulkhead in the glass.

Edit: on a lighter note, what kind of sand are you looking at?
 
Ooooh, that sucks! Or if you didn't want to return everything you could get a reducer and run it all 3/4 until the bulkhead in the glass.

I thought about it, but then it just ends up a hodge-podge of pvc sizes; between the 1" drains and manifold, 3/4" return then 1/2" reduction for return.

Going to run 1" everywhere, then at the return bulkheads reduce to 1/2", for simplicity sake.

Already got the 1/2" reducers, locline and bulkhead ordered. BRS sent me an RMA but didn't provide the address where to send it. So just waiting on that.
 
Finishing up plumbing today and I need some help. The way it is now, the overflow is plumbed using 1" for all 3 drains. The return, coming off Varios 6 is 1.25" and is immediately reduced to a 1" barb, soft tubing, to a 1" manifold. The manifold will have 2 valves coming off of it for future equipment UV/reactors. Then manifold also feeds the two returns, which are 1" all the way to the bulkheads, at which point they are reduced to 1/2" as this tank is unfortunately is predrilled for 1/2. :confused:

So my question is two fold:

1. My plan was to downsize the manifold valves to 1/2. Is this wise? Should I leave them 1"? Reduce to 3/4"?

2. Knowing what you know now, how many manifold valves/branches would you plumb? Is 2 enough? Increase it to 3?

PS. Spit balling here, but I guess I could always union-off the manifold to the left and right of the valves so the whole bank is removable if I need to do anything with the valves...

I have an SCA as well and love it. Though your carpentry work put mine to shame. That stand is beautiful.

I think I understand your question.
1. I would leave the route to the returns on the tank 1” the entire way through the manifold, reducing at the connection points for the smaller devices. Including the added devices like UV or reactors.
2. Unfortunately, I have no input on part two. I run my tank bare bones so no manifold this go round.
 
I have an SCA as well and love it. Though your carpentry work put mine to shame. That stand is beautiful.

I think I understand your question.
1. I would leave the route to the returns on the tank 1” the entire way through the manifold, reducing at the connection points for the smaller devices. Including the added devices like UV or reactors.
2. Unfortunately, I have no input on part two. I run my tank bare bones so no manifold this go round.

Thank you for the reply and the kind words. Trust me, not all my projects have turned turned out well. I've built a couple things over the years, TV stand, bed frame/headboard, some coffee tables. Each one was a learning step... There were some real "Frankenstein" pieces, hahaha.

As for the manifold, I think I'm going to go with 1" all around then reduce at connection if needed later. The only thing I can see myself running is maybe a UV and/or reavtor(s) if need comes to it. Like you, I'm a firm believer in keeping it simple.
 
After some tinkering, I think I'm gonna go get more 90s and replace some of thr 45s on the main and secondary drains.
 
OK boys and girls.... Moment of truth. Time to see if this tub holds water. ;Nailbiting

20200106_094413.jpg
 
2 hours.....so far, so good.

20200106_124403.jpg


Still a tiny bit of air in drain lines, but still pretty quiet. Water going into filter cups is making the most noise. Might need to add more floss to decease water drop height.
 
I think I had several small heart attacks watching mine fill up the first time.
 
Well, after 6 hours, I was about to call it good....and of course, I see a tiny water streak coming from between the overflow and the tank exterior.

Tried righting up the bulkhead nut... No dice. Ended draining some water, took off the overflow, cleaned the mating surface with alcohol and on the external gaskets, put a tiny bit of silicone lube. Put everything back together... Restarting the timer, maybe let it run overnight if I dont see any H2O invasion lol.

I knew it was too good to be true, haha.
 
Well, I didn't wake up to an indoor pool this morning, so I think we're at the home stretch.

Killed the pumps to test back siphon, all good. Still have abiut 4" to the trim on my 40B sump. Going to let it run the rest of the day and will drain the whole lot after I get home from work. Not looking forward to that.... Sigh.


Next step, mix the salt and transfer the dry rock that's been cycling since October, then add the sand. I grabbed 2 bags kf Reeflakes and a bag of MisoFlakes (90lb total).... Should this be rinsed or just let filter cups do work?

Lastly, as far as mixing salt, I have 2x 32gak brutes, but seeing that I need about 140 gal total volume of salt water, can/should I just RO/DI fill the tank and sump to appropriate water-level, then let my mp40s do the mixing? Or suck it up and do ~25gallon at a time...?
I have 2x200 gal buckets of Tropic Marin Pro, but I think the initial mix will use IO since I'll probably have a mini-cycle and will have to WC it out. Then when it gets closer to adding coral, start WC using TM pro. Any heartburn over this plan?
 
I would rinse it. I did not and I ended up with my sump and gyres covered in dust. I believe that is also where my high silicates came from. If you don't mind sponges EVERYWHERE it's not the end of the world. I didn't rinse because it was "live sand" but looking back, I'm not sure how live it was.

IMG_0246.jpg
 
I missed part two. I started with dry rock, filled with RODI, then salted. From there I added my live sand. Considering you have been curing your rocks I would fill it with RODI and salt it. Then add your rocks and sand. You can easily remove water with cups or a bucket as you add everything in.
 

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