An easy way I found to help the blending and fixing disco ball was to install a panel of 3/8” acrylic for the top and lightly sand it. You can sand it to your liking. It decreased my par by 10-20% but I think it’s worth it. You don’t need to modify the lenses at all so you don’t have to open the light! You can purchase 3/8” acrylic at a local acrylic shop and they will probably cut it for you. They might have some drops which would be cheaper.
An easy way I found to help the blending and fixing disco ball was to install a panel of 3/8” acrylic for the top and lightly sand it. You can sand it to your liking. It decreased my par by 10-20% but I think it’s worth it. You don’t need to modify the lenses at all so you don’t have to open the light! You can purchase 3/8” acrylic at a local acrylic shop and they will probably cut it for you. They might have some drops which would be cheaper.
I have tested my lights using an opaque glass diffuser with the lenses removed, which does help with blending without much reduction in PAR compared to no lenses and clear glass.
I didn't however think it would have a useful effect with the lenses, since the lenses sit almost on the glass and I expect a bit of space is needed between the diffuser and individual light sources to blend the colors.
I have tested my lights using an opaque glass diffuser with the lenses removed, which does help with blending without much reduction in PAR compared to no lenses and clear glass.
I didn't however think it would have a useful effect with the lenses, since the lenses sit almost on the glass and I expect a bit of space is needed between the diffuser and individual light sources to blend the colors.
I went to swap out some diodes on my new 300w MarsAqua. After taking off the lenses I realized these aren't the 45mil epistars. It seems they got rid of the zener diodes too. So, now if one goes out the whole board goes out? And I can't just resolder a new epistar in. How is this an upgrade?
I was helping a member here about led diode layouts for the Mars aqua black boxes, come to find out that the new ones that are being sold have a totally different board on them with different diode chips.
This will make them more difficult to modify. Thoughts?
I broke one of the smd leds when removing the lenses. I was able to solder in a 3w epistar. So, not a total loss. I haven't found any reef spectrum smd diodes for sale.
I broke one of the smd leds when removing the lenses. I was able to solder in a 3w epistar. So, not a total loss. I haven't found any reef spectrum smd diodes for sale.
Hey I had the same problem, broke a chip trying to remove the lense.
Any more info on how you repaired it?
how did you remove the old chip?
How were you able to tell what side was positive/negative?
did you have to scratch away the black paint?
TIA
Hey I had the same problem, broke a chip trying to remove the lense.
Any more info on how you repaired it?
how did you remove the old chip?
How were you able to tell what side was positive/negative?
did you have to scratch away the black paint?
TIA
I had to scratch the black coating off to expose the positive and negative copper onlays. You have to offset it from where the SMD was. The bottom of the new led will make the connection on the tiny positive and negative and bypass the new led.
OMG I got it to work!!!!
I have never even used it, its been sitting in my fish closet broken for 2 months. I was just procrastinating throwing it out!
OMG I got it to work!!!!
I have never even used it, its been sitting in my fish closet broken for 2 months. I was just procrastinating throwing it out!
I installed an old burned out diode to see if the rest of the board would still work if one burns out. And it does! It just won't work if you accidentally break one.
I finally got a chance to swap some LEDs. My BB had the board siliconed in and the diodes had thermal adhesive instead of paste which made it harder that I thought but really happy with the results. Much better. I added 6-20Ks, 5-420mn (3 on white and 2 on blue channel), 3-cyan 490mn and 3-6500Ks in the place of 6-2700Ks, 2 reds, 6-14Ks & 2-450s. I tried to take off all the lenses but way too much light spill in the room so I just took them off the red, green and cyan. The blend/spread is way better and less disco but still some shimmer. Here's a before and after...
I bought a diffuser from HD and was going to cut it and use some magnets to attach it to the outside light but I don't think it's needed. Thanks to this thread!
I played with this way more than I should have. I've removed no lenses, some lenses, and all lenses, with and without diffusers. Finally settled on removing all lenses and adding diffusers.
This severely limits the max PAR I can achieve (200 is max now vs >300 with lenses) but has helped a lot with hot spots. I'm currently riding the theory that high PAR from LEDs is a bad thing, and this setup allows me to hit ~100-200 throughout the tank without detectable hot spots.
So with all the lenses off you get max 200par? How high are your lights off the water. And what depth is that maximum? In addition how about the par distribution from center hot spot to sides say 18-24”
I’d like to know if there is any chance to connect any GHL Profilux controller to a Mars Aqua lamp.
Due to Profilux Light( the one I’m gonna get)has 4x 1V-10V interfaces for connection of dimmable lights or controlled pumps....just wondering if it is possible or not.
Just modding Mars Aqua by swapping the dimmable knobs controllers with RJ12 cables to be connected to the Profilux...?
I’m not an expert...so maybe somebody of you as Mr.Michael Lane could say something about it ....
The “Profilux Light” is the cheaper one among the Profilux controller:
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www.aquariumcomputer.com
I just got an answer from the GHL support and they suggested me to ask to a member of their forum who opened and wired his lamp himself over an EVG-AP-2F.
Is not possible to connect directly the Mars Aqua ( once it will be modded with Rj12 cable )to be connected to the device controller?
Is Break box or VG-AP-2F that necessary to fit the properly connection?
I have a land of confusion( as the Genesis song) in my head...
Could you be so kind to explain me step by step as I were a kid what I have to do to have my Mars Aqua 165W to be connected to the Profilux Light controller and fully working to let me set a proper sunrise/sunset program and so on?
And last question...
As you know Mars Aqua dimmer is set to start from about 20% power...
Once the mod will be done and finally connected to the Profilux controller ...it will be possible to dim from 0% to 100% as the controller itself allow to do?
