THE NEVER ENDING DIATOM BATTLE!

[Flippers4pups]

By any chance do you know if your house plumbing is copper or pex? I remember an article a while back about pex leaching over 150 different chemicals or something along those lines.

Pex and some copper. I'll do some research. Thanks.

 

[AZ_Reef]

Following - I have been battling diatom for over two months now. I bought this tank with rocks, corals and fish in February, but used new live sand.

 

[ADAM]

I have had issues with diatoms and sponge over growth in the past= silicate/silicon. My TDS always showed zero however phosphate and silicate were making it into my tank thru my RODI. I switched to the BRS Pro resins and saw almost an immediate improvement. My ATI test did not show silicon in the results however the SW results were always high. As a last resort I smithed resins and POOF..... diatoms were gone and sponges receded. Now I measure the performance of my RODI by TDS and the sponges in the tank. If the sponges start to grow/spread I replace the resin and in a few days they start to recede!
Since using the BRS Pro resins I have started to have to replace them more frequently than I prefer and have switched to Spectrapure since they are pre-packed. I prefer the pre-filled cartridges over filling myself, I think I may not have been getting the resin packed well enough to stop channeling in the canister. I have just started with the Spectrapure so Im not sure how long I will get out of each just yet. I reached out to them about where the SilicaBuster would work best, and if I could use it with the other mixed bed resins I already had. Told them my situation and that silicates and phosphates were believed to be in the water and they recommend a few options;

This was copied from SpectraPure's email;

"You could go with a MaxCap + SilicaBuster DI. This would be a full combo
which is the MaxCap Cation+Anion mix and the formulated layered Mixed-Bed. I
would highly recommend trying this out and logging your results (log
production, date, TDS readings, etc, estimated gallons produced, ect) and
you can compare vs different resins and combos.

With high Silicate and PO4, you could even try a combo of the SilicaBuster
followed by our new lab grade mixed-bed resin, Enduro Performance DI. This
could be a solid option as well.

The MegaMaxCap and Enduro being the best of the best DIs right now

If you wanted to use all 4 canisters, you certainly could do so! You could
buy bulk resin for the first two (Mixed-Bed 5L Bag = 6 cartridges) and then
follow it up with one of the combos above. Log and chart and see which might
be best for your water quality. Always keep the membrane rejection over 96%!

. If you use only 2 DIs, I would go with the MegaMaxCap/Enduro DI and log
all that. Alternatively, the SilicaBuster + Enduro would not be a bad combo
to try out, but you will want to log and test vs MegaMaxCap/Enduro or even
the MaxCap/SilicaBuster DIs. I have been told by some customers that the
SilicaBuster + Enduro DI worked best for high silicates but it's really all
dependent on what is coming out of the RO membrane."

If you are considering replacing your resin with the BRS Pro series, or similar, I would definitely recommend checking out SpectraPure. They were quick to respond and very helpful.

 

[Reefs of Space]

It's possible I had dinos not diatoms, I never confirmed. I added a Tiger Conch and started dosing peroxide 1ml per 10gal when the lights are off. The tank is clean and sand is spotless now. I didn't have any negative side effects. Zoas will close up right after dosing, but open back up shortly after. I added the peroxide to the air intake on my skimmer.

 

[AZMSGT]

I'm watching this thread too. As I have had diatoms that are persistent. Admit ably in my case it could be simply because I have changed, changed & changed things and can't keep myself from screwing around. Tank has been up since and with water since July, first livestock went in in Oct. When the first livestock went in the tank exploded in diatoms. Ever since then It's been a battle. I have positive Nitrates in the .10 range and PO4 in the .02-.05 range. Pretty sure my issue is diatoms and not Dinos but I haven't looked in a microscope.

Things I have done to likely have cause Diatoms to persist:
1. Added Siporax media to my sump. (2 mo ago)
2. Redid a part of my aquascape, added large pieces of rock which was cemented together with Emarco 400. (1.5 mo ago)
3. Switched to auto water changes & ATO top off system, added two large plastic tanks, 300ft of RO tubing, GHL Maxi dosers installed and the tubing in those looks to be silicon based. (any of these could be a source of trouble) (3 mo ago)

Regardless my Triton ICP test came back high on Silicates, one month ago. They said the source could be from several of the normal things and one item that stood out above all. They said the source could be Siporax. Well, I have siporax in my system. Put it in about 2 months ago. So I'm following tritons recommendation of 15% water changes every week for 6 weeks. I'm already running auto water changes too.

FWIW, I get zero TDS out of my RO/DI system. I'm very careful to purge the RO/DI system when I initially start it up after being idle. I make water once a week so the system sits. I have a bleed line before water can go to my storage tank and I bleed the water till I get zero TDS and then I let that run for 2 min. This way I know I'm getting totally zero TDS water.

I'm looking at switching out my filters on my RO/DI as I just bought all new ones to include the split DI resins. I have changed DI twice since I have been up and running.

 

[Miller535]

I have had issues with diatoms and sponge over growth in the past= silicate/silicon. My TDS always showed zero however phosphate and silicate were making it into my tank thru my RODI. I switched to the BRS Pro resins and saw almost an immediate improvement. My ATI test did not show silicon in the results however the SW results were always high. As a last resort I smithed resins and POOF..... diatoms were gone and sponges receded. Now I measure the performance of my RODI by TDS and the sponges in the tank. If the sponges start to grow/spread I replace the resin and in a few days they start to recede!
Since using the BRS Pro resins I have started to have to replace them more frequently than I prefer and have switched to Spectrapure since they are pre-packed. I prefer the pre-filled cartridges over filling myself, I think I may not have been getting the resin packed well enough to stop channeling in the canister. I have just started with the Spectrapure so Im not sure how long I will get out of each just yet. I reached out to them about where the SilicaBuster would work best, and if I could use it with the other mixed bed resins I already had. Told them my situation and that silicates and phosphates were believed to be in the water and they recommend a few options;

This was copied from SpectraPure's email;

"You could go with a MaxCap + SilicaBuster DI. This would be a full combo
which is the MaxCap Cation+Anion mix and the formulated layered Mixed-Bed. I
would highly recommend trying this out and logging your results (log
production, date, TDS readings, etc, estimated gallons produced, ect) and
you can compare vs different resins and combos.

With high Silicate and PO4, you could even try a combo of the SilicaBuster
followed by our new lab grade mixed-bed resin, Enduro Performance DI. This
could be a solid option as well.

The MegaMaxCap and Enduro being the best of the best DIs right now

If you wanted to use all 4 canisters, you certainly could do so! You could
buy bulk resin for the first two (Mixed-Bed 5L Bag = 6 cartridges) and then
follow it up with one of the combos above. Log and chart and see which might
be best for your water quality. Always keep the membrane rejection over 96%!

. If you use only 2 DIs, I would go with the MegaMaxCap/Enduro DI and log
all that. Alternatively, the SilicaBuster + Enduro would not be a bad combo
to try out, but you will want to log and test vs MegaMaxCap/Enduro or even
the MaxCap/SilicaBuster DIs. I have been told by some customers that the
SilicaBuster + Enduro DI worked best for high silicates but it's really all
dependent on what is coming out of the RO membrane."

If you are considering replacing your resin with the BRS Pro series, or similar, I would definitely recommend checking out SpectraPure. They were quick to respond and very helpful.

I do think people not packing their DI canister tightly enough allowing channeling is where a lot of people are getting things in their tanks. People also seem to have this misconception that if their TDS shows zero that there is NOTHING bad at all in their water. I am not convinced at all that all contaminants show up as a TDS at all, and I have seen people like Randy who say some DON'T show up on TDS. And that's assuming your TDS meter is still working, and accurate. HM (who is the brand of TDS meter on MOST of our RODI units) makes a calibration solution to calibrate and verify that the TDS meter is still working. But how many of us do that? We bank so much confidence based off of a cheap $20 meter, that we never calibrate, and as long as it gives us the number we want, we assume it is accurate. Food for thought.

 

[ADAM]

I do think people not packing their DI canister tightly enough allowing channeling is where a lot of people are getting things in their tanks. People also seem to have this misconception that if their TDS shows zero that there is NOTHING bad at all in their water. I am not convinced at all that all contaminants show up as a TDS at all, and I have seen people like Randy who say some DON'T show up on TDS. And that's assuming your TDS meter is still working, and accurate. HM (who is the brand of TDS meter on MOST of our RODI units) makes a calibration solution to calibrate and verify that the TDS meter is still working. But how many of us do that? We bank so much confidence based off of a cheap $20 meter, that we never calibrate, and as long as it gives us the number we want, we assume it is accurate. Food for thought.

I switched and tried the different resins when I read Randy explain about RODI and how pH effected the performance. It made a huge difference in my system. I have not had to deal with visible cyano or nuisance algae since switching either. I believe the main “issues” be mentioned were PO4, NO3, and silicate could pass thru undetected by the TDS meters we use.
As for changing out my resin(s); when I see a noticeable growth in the sponges in my tank is when I change my resins. My TDS will show zero however something is getting in the tank and feeding the sponges. As mentioned earlier, shortly after replacing there is a noticeable reduction in the size of the sponges, and this is the only change in husbandry. The color indicator of the resin is slightly visible in the resin at this time also. I’m with you on general belief that we trust our TDS meter and/or the color indicator too much.

 

[User1]

What sort of flow are we talking about in the tank and how mature is it? Both as it relates to the rock (and type) and coral growth. Dry rock, such as Pukani, will leach phosphates for many a month after the initial cycle. But getting back to flow maybe do a quick test and change it up and see if the diatoms persist. Try getting more flow over the bottom or in a specific area.

ICP I prefer ATI but this probably doesn't matter much. I'm biased because I use them, find their support and response to questions quick, and they do a few more elements and top off water. I'm not sure that will solve your problems but it isn't a bad idea to run one at least once a year at the same time you do any manual or automated tests to keep everyone honest.

 

[Flippers4pups]

There's some great discussion going on here!

Here's a thread I started almost exactly two years ago dealing with this on going battle, after I heard about Vivid aquariums dosing baker's yeast to combat diatoms. In retrospect I question whether or not they had diatoms at all since they don't speak about microscope confirmation. Either way, I tried using the baker's yeast and it did some reduction, but didn't eliminate them either.

So let's try some yeast!

So I've been trying to eliminate a small diatom infestation on my sand bed for the past couple of months to no avail. It's persistent and will not bend to my will, no matter what I try. Vacuum the bed- nope. Blackout - nada. Increased water changes - not a dent. GFO - laughing at...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Miller535]

There's some great discussion going on here!

Here's a thread I started almost exactly two years ago dealing with this on going battle, after I heard about Vivid aquariums dosing baker's yeast to combat diatoms. In retrospect I question whether or not they had diatoms at all since they don't speak about microscope confirmation. Either way, I tried using the baker's yeast and it did some reduction, but didn't eliminate them either.

So let's try some yeast!

So I've been trying to eliminate a small diatom infestation on my sand bed for the past couple of months to no avail. It's persistent and will not bend to my will, no matter what I try. Vacuum the bed- nope. Blackout - nada. Increased water changes - not a dent. GFO - laughing at...

www.reef2reef.com

If this works, I would think the reason being that many types of bacteria readily consume yeast. So I would theorize if it works, it works for a similar reason as carbon dosing.

 

[Flippers4pups]

I believe that anything other than going for the source of silicate is a waste of time.

I've decided to buy a silicate test kit. A Hanna HI-705.

I will need to track down the source and a test kit is needed to do this. If it's coming from my source water, which is my first suspect, second is the Kalkwasser calcium hydroxide purity level, I would need to periodically test the water to see if I need to replace DI resin. If it's coming from the source water, then I'll purchase some anion resin to replace one of the mixed DI resin chambers and go from there.

 

[Miller535]

I believe that anything other than going for the source of silicate is a waste of time.

I've decided to buy a silicate test kit. A Hanna HI-705.

I will need to track down the source and a test kit is needed to do this. If it's coming from my source water, which is my first suspect, second is the Kalkwasser calcium hydroxide purity level, I would need to periodically test the water to see if I need to replace DI resin. If it's coming from the source water, then I'll purchase some anion resin to replace one of the mixed DI resin chambers and go from there.

Just curious which brand of Kalk you use. If you use one of the pharma brands.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Just curious which brand of Kalk you use. If you use one of the pharma brands.

Food grade. Mrs. Wages.

 

[Miller535]

Food grade. Mrs. Wages.

Even if you do find the source else where, may want to switch to pharma grade. A little more guarantee of less unwanted things. BRS Kalk is fairly cheap.

 

[Reeftown5]

Just get a cleanup crew! Diatoms are a favorite snack of most cleaners.

 

[AZMSGT]

Just get a cleanup crew! Diatoms are a favorite snack of most cleaners.

This has honestly been one thing that has helped keep it under control in my system. I have 30+ large snails

 

[Flippers4pups]

Just get a cleanup crew! Diatoms are a favorite snack of most cleaners.

Yes, but I'm after the source.

Even if you do find the source else where, may want to switch to pharma grade. A little more guarantee of less unwanted things. BRS Kalk is fairly cheap.

SDS sheets are important when looking at calcium hydroxide. Unfortunately I could never find one for wages. There are many different grades to calcium hydroxide and some suppliers do provide SDS sheets that list contaminates. I'm curious if I get the hanna if I can test the Kalkwasser clear affluent for silica. @RandyHomles-Farley

 

[Miller535]

Yes, but I'm after the source.



SDS sheets are important when looking at calcium hydroxide. Unfortunately I could never find one for wages. There are many different grades to calcium hydroxide and some suppliers do provide SDS sheets that list contaminates. I'm curious if I get the hanna if I can test the Kalkwasser clear affluent for silica. @RandyHomles-Farley

While I'm sure that's true, I would also think they are not required to list anything below a certain point. And even at low levels, things add up. Where as pharma grade products have a much higher standard.

 

[Cwentz758]

While I'm sure that's true, I would also think they are not required to list anything below a certain point. And even at low levels, things add up. Where as pharma grade products have a much higher standard.

You know we got that Yinzer water.

I also and having a long battle with diatoms. Did a RIP clean and all and they’re still coming back slowly. I tested and found silicate in the container I was using for storage (just a normal can). I tested the output of my RODI and got nothing, also tested the tank water and got nothing.
I since purchased a new higher end water container but they’re still starting to reappear on the sand and certain rocks.

 

[waleedreef]

RED X is a special formula that prevents algae growth in the aquarium.

Red X safely treats unwanted algae in a biological / organic way and is very gentle to aquarium inhabitants.

When used correctly at the intended dosage, RED X is 100% safe to use and harmless to corals, fish, and invertebrates.

RED X is effective against:

• Green and red cyanobacteria
• Mild dinoflagellate infestation (Ostreopsis sp., Amphidinium sp., Prorocentrum sp., Coolia sp., Symbiodinium and others)
• Gold and armor algae
• Diatoms

Dosage:

Add 10ml per 100 liters (26 US gal) daily for 6 days, then wait for an additional 5 days for full effects to occur.

During treatment period, DO NOT do water changes. Do not use any carbon, PO4 removers, Adsorbers, Ozone or UV.

After 11 days, you may resume normal aquarium care.

After Red X treatment, we recommend dosing Fauna Marin REBIOTIC to repair and maintain a healthy biological balance in the aquarium. By adding Rebiotic, you can effectively prevent unwanted coverings from coming back.



Ingredients:
Water, sodium chloride, salicylic acid

Safety note:
RED X is intended for use in Saltwater aquariums only. Keep away from children, not for human consumption.
ATTENTION CORROSIVE!

Use biocidal products with care. Always label containers and read product information before use.

BAuA Reg.No.: N-77208

H 413: May be harmful to aquatic life with long-term effect.

Contains no antibiotics or prescription medicine!