The Nitrogen Cycle: By Reef Breeders

revhtree

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The Nitrogen cycle

The nitrogen cycle is one of the most crucial parts of both large scale and small-scale aquaculture system water quality. Without the Nitrifying bacteria of the nitrogen cycle, the water would become too toxic to be inhabited by most forms of life, including fish. High levels of ammonia, or un-ionized ammonia, can cause decay of the gills and internal hemorrhaging. High nitrite levels can cause brown blood disease, and nitrates in a high concentration can cause algae blooms, and indirectly kill fish.

The two most notable and important types of bacteria in the nitrogen cycle are the genus Nitrosomonas, and the genus Nitrobacter. Bacteria in the genus Nitrosomonas convert ammonia into less dangerous nitrites. Although these nitrites are less dangerous than ammonia, they are still dangerous to livestock. That’s when the genus Nitrobacter is needed. Bacteria from this genus convert nitrites to less harmful nitrates. Nitrates are rarely harmful to fish, and usually only harm the crop indirectly by causing an algae bloom. There are however, many forms of anaerobic bacteria that use nitrogen gas instead of oxygen gas for respiration, thus splitting the nitrate (NO2) molecule into beneficial oxygen gas, and harmless nitrogen gas.

Ammonia, which is also referred to as NH3, is the most toxic component of the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is acutely toxic at concentrations as low as .6ppm, and can kill fish within days. Exposure to ammonia causes a fish’s gills to burn and hemorrhage, which inhibits the gill’s ability to removed dissolved oxygen from water. This causes oxygen depletion within the fishes bloodstream, which can and will cause brain damage and internal hemorrhaging with prolonged exposure. If the fish is not removed from water containing even low levels of ammonia (below .1ppm), growth can be stunted, and the fish may never make it to harvesting size.

Nitrites, although not as toxic as ammonia, can still harm or kill the crop. In acute concentrations (higher than 1ppm) nitrites can cause the hemoglobin in a fish’s red blood cells, which contain iron, to oxidize. Once the hemoglobin in a fish’s blood oxidizes, the blood cells can no longer carry oxygen, which gives the blood a brown color. This disease is know as brown blood disease, and can be observed externally by symptoms such as brown gills, brown lesions, and fish showing signs of oxygen depletion, which include loss of appetite and piping.

Nitrates are relatively harmless to fish, but in high concentrations, they can indirectly harm fish. They do this by causing an algae bloom. Since nitrates are a factor in accelerated algal growth, phytoplankton will begin to grow at an accelerated rate. When phytoplankton blooms, it will cause turbidity, or a decrease in light penetration due to small particles in the water. This turbidity reduces light penetration at the bottom of a culture vessel, which reduces the amount of photosynthesis at the bottom, and therefore the amount of dissolved oxygen. This decrease in dissolved oxygen will in turn cause oxygen depletion, some symptoms of this include; piping, fish gathering at incoming water, loss of fish appetite, and loss of fish vigor, or activity.

The nitrogen cycle is the largest contributor to water quality, and components of the nitrogen cycle must be closely monitored. The number one result of high nitrates, nitrites, or ammonia levels is oxygen depletion, which can sometimes be solved by mechanically aerating the water, or oxygenating the water by directly injecting oxygen or outside air. Another way to avoid High levels of NH3 (ammonia), NO3 (nitrite), or NO2 (nitrate) is to avoid overfeeding, and collecting and removing any excess waste or other organic mater, which can rot, causing ammonia to build up.

Brown blood disease:
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Ammonia Poisoning:
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You have to include the algae cycle. Almost every tank i setup for people gets neglected by adding fish after the nitrogen cycle, but during the algae cycle. "Why is this brown stuff covering my new acro?" Asks bob the impatient.

Often newer hobbyists have to battle algae more than they need to, leading to the same questions asked for years. Patience is the hardest thing with marine enthusiasts. I always get, "what kind of corals do you sell that i can put in immediately?" I tell them dead ones. Not completely true, as i cycle tanks with palys or zoas and they survive, some cycles i have seen corals get huge, but those are the ones that prefer dirty water, which i can never keep alive in my uber clean systems.

I never accelerate my cycles either. I feel that encourages less hardy and diverese bacterias to get out of hand. A single live rock from a clean system and a wad of chaeto in with a ton of dry rock is my methods and work well for my clients who let it cycle.
 
Good stuff Rev.

My only comment is the nitrite info. The 1 ppm danger is actually for freshwater fish. Saltwater fish are greatly more tolerant to nitrite levels.
 
Yes some corals even prefer more nitrates over cleaner water. I know lionfish live in murky waters as do some eels. Now freshwater is a whole other monster. The ocean is a huge blob of water with different types of water whereas most of the freshwater is fed from a river, constantly filtering as it goes and making some very drinkable water in certain areas, but then there are stink ponds full of catfish or other types. I know that my pond was a lot dirtier than my tank, but the animals outside were thriving. Its really a 'per species' thing when it comes to quality. A freshwater discus needs cleaner water than a zoanthid colony and and some corals need cleaner water than a catfish. There really is no standard. If you have super clean water it limits you to x corals, and a dirty tank limits you to Y corals...There aren't really situations where they can coexist unless your tank is large enough to have a "dirty corner." But the point is to be able to keep what ever levels of chemicals your species will thrive in, and that does mean completing the entire cycle and THEN controlling it as naturally as possible. The less buffers and chemicals you use the better IMO. Any imbalance in the water can be combatted by means that are not chemicals if, again, Patience is practiced.
 
"...Since nitrates are a factor in accelerated algal growth, phytoplankton will begin to grow at an accelerated rate. When phytoplankton blooms..."
This gets me thinking about ways that I have cultured my own Phyto. Miracle grow has been the common accelerator in most places. What is miracle grow made of? ? ? Nitrogen, Phosphates, and what so happens to come in that grape liquid stuff that so happens to be called ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS.

The most efficient and natural way I have ever cultured phyto is with a 1 ml dose of "grape reef drink" and about 2ml of the wonderful gunk in my skimmer. Stick it in the standard upside down 2 liter bubbling with a 75w 6500k outdoor daylight bulb for 16hr light and 8 hrs pitch black. The plankton was forest green and had to be harvested almost every 9 days. I would put few drops of skimmer duke every other day and the purple essential elements once a week. This was enough to profit on, as I often sell gorgonians and scallops to people and there are no local suppliers that have it in stock, thus leading to starvation. When I move I am setting it up again (along with my entire 7 tanks + frag pond, aragocrete production, etc...) and will do threads in great detail on all the builds and projects. (Halloween is the last day of my lease! WOO)




 

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