The Prismatic Lagoon

[big ole blue]

Tip

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Only use clean dry towels to dry the water off after rinsing. The key here is to not contaminate any portion of the tank with detergents or chemicals.
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[big ole blue]

Tip

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By using a razor blade you can get the bulk of glue used to affix display signs off. Finish removing glue with rubbing alcohol (Evaporates quickly). I found it's just as easy to use Lens cleaning wipes like the kind you use for your iPad.

Inspect the Sump tank by holding a flash light parallel to the surface of the glass. This will high-light any residue on the tank.

Be sure to thoroughly inspect prior to rinsing the tank off with a garden hose.
Attached Images

 

[big ole blue]

Tip

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When rinsing the tank out with a garden hose be sure to do this over soft grass, cardboard or a wood deck. This will minimize the chance of damaging the glass on hard surfaces such as Bricks, Concrete or Rocks. When you think you've finished rinsing it off... Rinse it off one more time (Just to be sure). Don't forget to carry from the base.

Read more: My first 54 gallon corner saltwater tank - Page 4

 

[big ole blue]

Step 5

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Once you have the tank clean and returned to the work table, grab a notepad and a pencil. You'll need to measure the length of the ID and record this info. You'll also need to record the dimensions of the equipment you'll be placing in each of the chambers. For my sump, I'll have a filter sock and bracket in the first chamber, a 125Gallon Coralife Protein Skimmer in the second chamber, technically the sponge goes in the third chamber and then the Utility Return pump in the fourth chamber.

Using the scratch paper, sketch the layout of the chambers with the recorded dimensions. This will help you work through any flaws with the size of the chambers.

Keep in mind that you may want to add additional equipment in the future such as Phosphate or Calcium Reactors

 

[big ole blue]

Step 6

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Using the baffle walls as a guide, trim the size of the sponge filter to fit your sump. I recommend having the filter approximately 1/16" to a 1/4" too big. This will have your filter fit nice and snug which will keep it in place and prevent it from being easily dislodged. Don't have it too snug because then it'll be too difficult to remove for maintenance cleaning...

 

[big ole blue]

Step 7

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Gather your equipment and set the sump and the tools on a work table with plenty of space to move around. Once you're ready, make a mock up of the finished product using the masking tape, a measuring tape and your sketch. It's a good idea to triple check the measurements to your sketch and ensure the baffle walls are in the correct location. Once you're satisfied with the mock up you can use a strip of masking tape to mark the exact location of each wall. When you're applying the silicone the sponge filter needs to be removed.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 8

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Almost ready to apply silicone.

Remove the 3rd wall (the one between the sponge filter and where the utility pump will be).

Now that you've got only two walls in the sump, secure them on one side firmly with masking tape. You'll be applying the silicone to one side of two of the walls. Be sure to place the tape so it can be easily removed after the sealant has cured or is firm enough to not be marred.

Now either measure from the wall you have secure (or if you used masking tape to mark their locations when you mocked it up) set and secure the second wall.

It's easier to mark all of the baffle wall locations when you have the project mocked up. You will probably be moving the walls in and out so it'll definitely save some time. Just be sure to place the location marked tape high enough to not interfere with the baffle walls and there installation.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 9

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With two of the walls secure and your equipment ready, don vinyl or nitrile type gloves. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the instructions on the back of the container.

Depending on how wide the gap is between your tank wall and the baffle wall you'll need to trim the applicator nozzle accordingly. I'd err on the side of caution here and trim it so a nice heavy bead is applied. Keep in mind that the sump will more than likely hidden under a cabinet so cosmetic appearance is trivial.

Tip : It is easier to apply a smooth bead if you cut the applicator nozzle on a 45 degree angle

 

[big ole blue]

Step 10

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Starting at a bottom corner, firmly grip and squeeze the tube until the sealant starts to flow. When this occurs, slowly move up and/or along the joint to apply an even bead of silicone. The bead doesn't have to be perfect at this point.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 10 continued...

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Immediately after applying the bead of silicone, stick your finger in the bottom corner and run it along the bead. This will force the sealant into the joint and create a nice uniform bead. Repeat these actions for the remaining joints on the two walls then it's time to let them set. I waited overnight and continued the project the next morning.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 11

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Clean Up

When you're finished with one side of the two walls and letting them set, clean and store the silicone.
Immediately cap the tube and set aside. You should then use several Q-tips and push the silicone out of the Applicator nozzle. I suggest doing this several times to ensure all of the sealant is out of the Nozzle.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 12

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The following morning, remove the tape from both of the baffle walls. You can then apply the silicone to this side. Remember to don your vinyl or nitrile gloves, these actually make it easier to apply the sealant and make for easy clean-up.

 

[big ole blue]

Easy modification of the Sponge Filter

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When you've applied the sealant to the second side of the 2 walls I would wait a few hours to let it set up. The Baffle walls should be secure at this point so it should be ok to proceed with the final wall.

However, in the mean time you could make this quick and easy modification to the sponge filter :

By using fishing line and a large sewing needle you can make a handle which will assist you in removing the sponge in the future for maintenance.

Simply tie the line to the needle and feed it through the height of the sponge near one end of the sponge. You then should feed it back through the sponge near the other end of the sponge.

Tip: You could also slide beads or even ceramic bio noodles to create a nice handle.

When you have two loose ends on one side of the sponge secure them by tying the following knot...http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18fc...f/original.gif

See Pics below for assistance.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 13

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Now two of the walls are secure and it's time to set the third baffle wall.
Using the masking tape marks as a guide, set the third wall with masking tape on the sponge filter side. It'll be easier to apply silicone on the inside if the wall is already secured.

When you set the wall up, make sure the filter will have a nice snug fit by sliding it in to place.

 

[big ole blue]

Step 14

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Once the sealant has been placed on one side of the final wall, remove the tape. This next step will be the most difficult step of this build.

When you apply the sealant to the inside of the sponge chamber you could use a tool (such as a baby spoon) or just closely place it along the joint and use your finger tip to accurately set the bead. It is also easier to use a full tube of sealant instead of an almost empty one. When you've successfully applied sealant to all the edges, remove all of the masking tape. Don't forget to clean the applicator nozzle and cap the sealant tube.

Let the Sump sealant cure overnight before moving.

When the sealant has cure you can use a razor blade to remove any excess or accidents.

When the Sealant is Fresh/Wet it has a strong Vinegar odor. Work in a well ventilated area.

 

[big ole blue]

Completion

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You now have a customized sump that cost a fraction of what a Pre-fab one does.

I was looking at sumps on the internet and the size I needed cost anywhere from $200 to $400. This build was approximately $50 - $60 not counting the Sponge filter or fishing line. All of the tools I already had so there was no expense there either.

Since I will have TWO 54 Gallon Corner Reef Tanks, the cost of purchasing sumps for the pair would have been $400 to $800 !!!

But since I built them myself I saved almost $700 !!!

To put that in perspective... That's about how much I will be spending on ALL the equipment for the Reef tanks (The Skimmers, Powerheads, Pumps, Heaters, and even lighting!)

 

[Eienna]

Wow....bet you could make a few bucks making and selling those

 

[Mirelyght]

i can't see most of your pics....when i click open in a new tab it wants me to join another site's forums. is that forum hosting those pics?

 

[big ole blue]

Those pics are ones I posted to another forum. They were visible to me otherwise I would have used a different file. Sorry about that.

My other alias is : VerdantGrotto

Is everyone having difficulty seeing the images?

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

Can't see the photos. You can't hotlink from the site you're trying to link from. Upload them here please so we can see!