The real Black Box light study

  • Thread starter Thread starter Manose
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Yes that would help a lot. I am going to put is on a larger tank next week to see how the spread really is. I will do the for the Kessil 360x also.
When are you coming up to visit at the shop?
Soon.

I am hoping by the next couple weeks.
 
Following, really interested, I started out with 2 of the Black Mars Aqua style boxes, and though they were just fine, when I upgrade I wasn't ready to go 'pricey' for lights, so I shopped around alot and found these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332396313414?ul_noapp=true
They seem to be on the high end, but unlike most Chinese lights this place actually has a storefront, contact info and customer service that actually responds! I've worked with them several times, even haggled on pricing and they made me a deal, I had a friend come over and Par them out when I just had 3x54cm panels, and found the par to be a little too low for SPS, I've purchased 3x more and will include my results. I know you're doing much more accountable documentation. But if you wanted another vendor contact them, maybe they'd send you a small sample. I'll provide my own results for anyone that's interested as well. Good luck with the study! Just think after this you could also do one on Chinese refugium lights!

I'm looking at these at the moment so I'd definitely be interested in seeing some numbers.

A slightly broader question to the group, some of these CBB lights are offered with the option of having or not having the red/green leds in identical units. What are the benefits/downsides of have the red and green leds vs choosing an option that replaces them with 14k whites?
 
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I'm looking at these at the moment so I'd definitely be interested in seeing some numbers.

A slightly broader question to the group, some of these CBB lights are offered with the option of having or not having the red/green leds in identical units. What are the benefits/downsides of have the red and green leds vs choosing an option that replaces them with 14k whites?

This is a hotly debated topic. There is evidence that you don't need whites at all. You can get a beautiful tank either way. Me? I tend to replace reds with warm white. It has reds in it. And greens get replaced with limes. But I. Starting to look into mint.

So what I am saying is, as long as you hit the chlorophyll peaks and they look good do what you like.

That is a simple answer I can get really in depth if you want but I don't want to derail this thread I almost did once already.
 
This is a hotly debated topic. There is evidence that you don't need whites at all. You can get a beautiful tank either way. Me? I tend to replace reds with warm white. It has reds in it. And greens get replaced with limes. But I. Starting to look into mint.

So what I am saying is, as long as you hit the chlorophyll peaks and they look good do what you like.

That is a simple answer I can get really in depth if you want but I don't want to derail this thread I almost did once already.

We may have to take this discussion elsewhere then, assuming there's not already a thread for it? I did just pull the trigger on a 34" Wifi Dsuny, due to a limited availability discount (Got the light for £144 gbp, £85 off :D ) It's got the red/greens so I'll see how it goes I suppose....
 
We may have to take this discussion elsewhere then, assuming there's not already a thread for it? I did just pull the trigger on a 34" Wifi Dsuny, due to a limited availability discount (Got the light for £144 gbp, £85 off :D ) It's got the red/greens so I'll see how it goes I suppose....
Just send me a message.
 
Have you tried the ledzeal?
They are on my personal tank and will do a full review once the Noopsyche mini study is over with. The study we are doing now is comparing the Noopsyche K7 to the 3 major brand lights on the market and see if they hold up.
Once this is over we will start on the BB lights only.
 
Hey @Manose I got my K7 today.

I have it dialed in manually right now but I am going to do a ramp up down program tonight after lights out.
Yea tell me what you think cause right now this thing has some real potential. I might take the Lumini pixie off my 80 and buy a couple of these.
 
I gotta tell you, if the growth matches the color, these things could get huge in a hurry.

Keep in mind I only have a few softies in the nano right now. I will be adding more soon.
 
I gotta tell you, if the growth matches the color, these things could get huge in a hurry.

Keep in mind I only have a few softies in the nano right now. I will be adding more soon.
Yea for me the great thing is I have only about 14in of water to penetrate as tank is 16in tall.
I have a few more tests to do and one will be an area test. I have one more light to compare the K7 to and that is the Radion xr15. Even if it gets it butt kicked in that par test the K7 will still be worth looking into for many people.
I chose not to drive down and test today as to avoid drunk drivers. I will return to testing on Wed.
 
I think you're missing the point though. These numbers for the Kessil being so off other tests results done with more reliable equipment throw any future findings in this series of tests into doubt. We can see that the results that are being had are not accurate.
There is a level of difference between the two tests, with different sensors being used. I wouldn't compare data obtained from two different types of equipment IMO. I would keep them separate.
 
There is a level of difference between the two tests, with different sensors being used. I wouldn't compare data obtained from two different types of equipment IMO. I would keep them separate.

Absolutely (or should I say, relatively).

Unless both sensors are calibrated to a traceable standard and have identical specifications for angle, spectrum response, etc, and the testing setup is standardized, the numbers are not comparable to anything else directly. They are useful for relative measurements on the same setup.

I find it interesting that several of the fixtures have a low spot at their centers. Whether this is a measurement error (sensor angle response and integration) or real I don’t have an answer.
 
Absolutely (or should I say, relatively).

Unless both sensors are calibrated to a traceable standard and have identical specifications for angle, spectrum response, etc, and the testing setup is standardized, the numbers are not comparable to anything else directly. They are useful for relative measurements on the same setup.

I find it interesting that several of the fixtures have a low spot at their centers. Whether this is a measurement error (sensor angle response and integration) or real I don’t have an answer.
I did notice this and we used many different ways of placing the sensor on the frag plug but it came out the same. This also happened on measurements from the front and back of the lights with some interesting readings.
The main thing is the consistency that we have achieved so far.
 
I did notice this and we used many different ways of placing the sensor on the frag plug but it came out the same. This also happened on measurements from the front and back of the lights with some interesting readings.
The main thing is the consistency that we have achieved so far.

We’re the results averaged or what # did you report?

Glad to hear you ended up with consistent measurements!
 
We’re the results averaged or what # did you report?

Glad to hear you ended up with consistent measurements!
No averages only exact numbers from the same reference spot on each plug from each light. Really interested to see what happens when we use the 48in low boy frag tank and the same system there.
 
Absolutely (or should I say, relatively).

Unless both sensors are calibrated to a traceable standard and have identical specifications for angle, spectrum response, etc, and the testing setup is standardized, the numbers are not comparable to anything else directly. They are useful for relative measurements on the same setup.

I find it interesting that several of the fixtures have a low spot at their centers. Whether this is a measurement error (sensor angle response and integration) or real I don’t have an answer.

I've noticed this as well. I would postulate this occurs for a couple reasons. First, I imagine that the way the lenses are designed now, optimize spread by concentrating photons in a way that there is an even spread at an "optimal" depth. Anything lower or higher will result in a cool spot or hot spot respectively.

Also, the (unpainted) glass will reflect light back into the tank. It's the reason sometimes outer edge par measurements are higher than some of the readings closer to the light source.

Looking great, and keep the updates coming!
 

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