The Triton "method": Separating fact from flawed assumptions...

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You are absolutely not "dumb.." Great questions.

Triton tests will provide you with a report on the trace element concentration in your water. You would potentially adjust these levels based on testing results. The backbone of Triton's system is a four part dosing solution called "Base Elementz", whocih contains a balanced calcium/alkalinity/trace element component. You'd add this via dower daily in quantities predetermined for your system. Any trace elements that you'd dose above and beyond that would be dictated solely on test results, to bring your system parameters into the desired range. It's not an onerous, endless system of adding this and that on a continuous basis. It can certainly work on smaller aquariums.

In summary, it's about only adding exactly what is needed, only in amounts determined by the needs of your animals. Obviously there is a bit more to it than just that, as we've discussed before (and we will cover in more detail in future pieces), but it's a great way to ru na healthy reef...Not the only way- just a good way!

Thanks,

Scott

FWIW I ran the calculations based on their starting point recommendation (10ml of elementz per 100L per day) vs only the salt costs for 15% water changes per month (which is on the low end of recommendations) and a mid priced salt mix and the cost was pretty much identical for my planned tank size of 265gallons. There's a lot of other costs involved with doing water changes that I ignored (RO/DI costs, water costs, heating replacement water, alternative test kits, etc.). It seems cost competitive to me (and also much simpler).
 
ok, can someone please explain this in lamens terms? I believe from what I have read this to be what this is about. we use the triton test to see where our perimeters are, then Triton gives us a mix of additives that best fits our aquarium that we use and continue to test with Triton and no more water changes? is this a process that will be $50 a month? $100? $200? Is it worth it for smaller aquariums? sorry if I sound dumb here but just trying to wrap my hands around it.

My post above was in reference to this original question... my bad.
 
There is no exact frequency for when you should send off a triton test. If you are using the base elementz and testing your water with your hobby kits on a regular basis, you should fairly easily be able to stabilize all of the macro elements within a short period of time. Once you dial in the dosage to achieve a stable dkh of around 8, the other elements you test for typically fall in line fairly quickly. (If you don't have gross deviations to start with) The base elementz were carefully designed to adequately supply all major macro and trace elementz, all the time, to a well balanced reef aquarium with an algae bed. Since every tank is different and since every tank will have slightly different needs based on the species of corals present in the system, there will be a need to supplement certain elements to keep up with the higher demands of certain species specific aquariums.
For example, take two reef systems almost identical in size and setup. One setup is heavily stocked with large clams while the other setup is heavy with soft corals. Since these two different animal types will require different minerals for growth and development, one great way to see what those specific needs are is to test your water to see what is deficient. On the clam tank you may need to dose strontium more than on most tanks whereas on the softy heavy tank you may need to dose iodine regularly on top of the base elementz. This method of identifying exactly what your tank needs is logically more efficient than simply supplementing based on anecdotal evidence or because you read the corals like potassium or strontium. This does not mean that you shouldn't look at your tank and experiment to obtain the best visual results, it just adds another tool to your toolbox to minimize guesswork and prevent costly dead-end routes.
 
They sell their own salt. I believe they also support tropic Marin for corrections
 
Where can the base elements be purchased in the US? Does anybody have a list of US vendors?
 
Anyone set up a tank to support this method here in the US? If so what size tank? And how much was start up?
 
I just started the triton method on my new 120 gallon tank. I bought the base elements set from unique corals for 78.00, I bought 3 of the test packets to get started for a little less than 150.00, and 3 5 gallon water storage jugs which I measured out and marked them off in liters (10 liter jugs are too expensive and hard to get here in the US) for like 10 bucks each from my lfs. Now that is not counting the cost of dosers, dosing containers, or any of the refugium set up. I'm happy with how it is going so far (3 weeks with salt in the tank) it is much like dialing in two part to find your tank consumption.
 
Anyone set up a tank to support this method here in the US? If so what size tank? And how much was start up?
I'm in the middle of my build which is designed around the triton method.
The startup cost is no different than any other tank I've built that requires some form of dosing and a sump.
The difference is minor design details, like the large refugium that comes first in line in the sump.
 
Hi All
Im new here and hoped someone can help me. I am switching to the triton method and have some refugium ideas or issues. I want to have an external refugium to the sump and make it as large as possible,,, maybe 70% volume. Firstly does all the flow have to go through this section first as I may have flow issues. Secondly I could pump to it with a seperate pump from the sump but then a lot of the flow will bypass straight to skimmer and return section.
So will the method work if some of the flow bypasses the refugium ( eventually it will go through i guess). And can a refugium be too big. My theory is the larger the better and no need for additional phos reactor etc.
Any feedback is much appreciated

Steve
 
Hi All
Im new here and hoped someone can help me. I am switching to the triton method and have some refugium ideas or issues. I want to have an external refugium to the sump and make it as large as possible,,, maybe 70% volume. Firstly does all the flow have to go through this section first as I may have flow issues. Secondly I could pump to it with a seperate pump from the sump but then a lot of the flow will bypass straight to skimmer and return section.
So will the method work if some of the flow bypasses the refugium ( eventually it will go through i guess). And can a refugium be too big. My theory is the larger the better and no need for additional phos reactor etc.
Any feedback is much appreciated

Steve
My refugium is 20% of the main tank volume and I have some trouble keeping the Po4 up. I have to have more fish than normal and I dose amino acids.

Screen Shot 2018-04-25 at 7.27.41 AM.png
 
My refugium is 20% of the main tank volume and I have some trouble keeping the Po4 up. I have to have more fish than normal and I dose amino acids.

Screen Shot 2018-04-25 at 7.27.41 AM.png


Ah ok. So maybe bigger isnt better in this case.. Do you like the triron method. How is the tank looking please. Im a bit nervous but going to give it a whirl lol.
 
More algae in the system is always better. Just like natural reefs that can have 10 kg wet weight of algae per square meter of reef surface.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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