The war on algae - proven methods to eradicate the reefer's worst enemy

A DIY algae turf scrubber is very effective. I used one previously to get my algae under control. I later started dosing No3Po4X (similar to vodka dosing) to lower my phosphates to near zero and it basically replaced the need for the turf scrubber. So today, I just dose the 7ml No3Po4X daily along with a carbon reactor and nothing else. No algae issues for some time.
 
Hair algae: I raised my alkalinity and scrubbed the crud outta my rocks, dipping them in saltwater not freshwater. I do not know chemically why raising my alk helped but it really seemed to help me.

Cyanobacteria: I added a phosphate reactor and it has decreased substantially though we are arguing up and down about how much GFO I should be using.

Won't leaving the lights on 24/7 cause the algae to go sexual? I run my fuge lights opposite of my display lights and it seems to be working fine. They are on about 18 hours a day
No...that's the opposite. If you keep them on 24/7 It WON'T go sexual...or at least that's what I've always heard. That's why you cannot keep calurpa (sp?) in your main display (other than it being a nuisance) because your lights cycle on and off therefore it eventually goes sexual.
 
any truth to this?? somebody mentioned this to me when I was talking about how bad my bubble algae problem is, needless to say I a extremely hesitant to do so as y tank is pretty much SPS dominated.

Im getting desperate though, willing to try anything cause it's getting out of control and extremely frustrating.

This is supposed to work on one type of algae (can't remember the type), but I doubt it will do a thing for bubble algae.

CJ
 
any truth to this?? somebody mentioned this to me when I was talking about how bad my bubble algae problem is, needless to say I a extremely hesitant to do so as y tank is pretty much SPS dominated.

Im getting desperate though, willing to try anything cause it's getting out of control and extremely frustrating.

H2O2 won't do anything for bubble algae. Certain fish will eat it. Naso Tangs rip up Valonia.

Other algaes:

Many times, cyano is there regardless of using GFO or water movement, etc, and Chemi-Clean does a great job when used as directed.

Got bryopsis? Kent Tech M will eliminate it as well. Not control it, eliminate it. I have never seen a tang, snail or crab of any type eat bryopsis.
 
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Chemiclean takes care of the symptom but not the source of the issue.
IME the cleanest systems can get cyano, and it is not necessarily an indicator of an underlying condition. You can increase flow, increase water changes, decrease nutrient inputs, skim wet, add GFO..yadda yadda yadda and you can still have cyano grow.
 
Change your light bulbs! I had massive algae fields growing, cyano I couldn't get rid of, switched out my 14-18 month old bulbs (didn't realize they were that old, and got screwed around for a few months on my new LEDs which delayed the change for like 3 months) for LED's.... Been a month, maybe month and a half now and algae is 99% gone and cyano is too! Didn't change anything else.... other then added a couple wrasses and a small juvi naso (algae was almost gone before its addition tho).
 
IME the cleanest systems can get cyano, and it is not necessarily an indicator of an underlying condition. You can increase flow, increase water changes, decrease nutrient inputs, skim wet, add GFO..yadda yadda yadda and you can still have cyano grow.

That's because as David was alluding too, cyno is a bacteria......so you can have an ulns, and still have cyno which is actually very common as the carbon source feeds the "good" and the "bad" bacteria....

Best relief of nutrients and algae removal for me including Hair and "Briopsis"

Vodka
GFO (change every 10 days)
Rox carbon (as long as u don't have fish susceptable to HLE)

Any algae not adhereing to ulns rules such as Briopsis can be taken down from 2 means....

Kent tech m

(didn't work for me)

So,
2) 3% H2O2
 

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