The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

Rhomboid is finally able to turn its whole tail blue when tough talking. Used to only be parts of it, but I guess it’s getting better (or madder) and can turn the whole thing dark, dark, blue.

Just hanging out (pardon the micro-bubbles):
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Getting wound up:

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Mid-tough talking:
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This guy is a complete A hole... i thought the ruby long fin fairy wrasse was suposed to be peaceful?

He chases after my Anthias. I was thinking of putting in a pintail and timor later today, but i am giving seconds thoughts, because if this guy is a ******, then i wonder about the Timor and Pintail.
 
20240323_145448.jpg


This guy is a complete A hole... i thought the ruby long fin fairy wrasse was suposed to be peaceful?

He chases after my Anthias. I was thinking of putting in a pintail and timor later today, but i am giving seconds thoughts, because if this guy is a ******, then i wonder about the Timor and Pintail.
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For a small wrasse they are pretty aggressive
 
C. ryukyuensis, C. chaliasi, and C. filamentosus hanging out in the quarantine/holding tank. Filamentosus seems much less aggressive and a little shyer than I expected, perhaps because of the larger ryukyuensis?

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C. ryukyuensis, C. chaliasi, and C. filamentosus hanging out in the quarantine/holding tank. Filamentosus seems much less aggressive and a little shyer than I expected, perhaps because of the larger ryukyuensis?

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Is that just for holding or ate you treating in that tank?
 
Is that just for holding or ate you treating in that tank?
Technically it's just for holding at this point, but it still has cupramine at 0.5mg/L and has for the past 90 days or so. Most of my quarantine and holding tanks keep cupramine running in them at that level all the time.

These guys are done with their rally pro and hyposalinity, just cupramine at this point.
 
Technically it's just for holding at this point, but it still has cupramine at 0.5mg/L and has for the past 90 days or so. Most of my quarantine and holding tanks keep cupramine running in them at that level all the time.

These guys are done with their rally pro and hyposalinity, just cupramine at this point.
Does the copper level not change with all of that rock in it? I understand that calcareous rocks absorb copper (and in turn might cause problems from leaching it).

Curious what your QT procedure is for the wrasses. I'd like to lean how to do it well for sand sleepers using a tank with rock and sand.
 
Does the copper level not change with all of that rock in it? I understand that calcareous rocks absorb copper (and in turn might cause problems from leaching it).

Curious what your QT procedure is for the wrasses. I'd like to lean how to do it well for sand sleepers using a tank with rock and sand.
Initially it seemed to slightly drop, but nothing crazy. Cupramine doesn't seem to leach into the rock, at least in my experience. Sand in this tank is silica sand (pool filter sand), so just doesn't really absorb anything.

When all these fish move to the 100 gallon, this rock will move with them. I'll run carbon for a few days, and add some test corals to see how they do. So long as they don't wither and die overnight, I'll move more corals, including Acroporas over. I've had no issues doing so in the past, and don't expect any now.

My wrasses all get at least 14 days at 1.009 SG, 30 days of cupramine at 0.5mg/L, 3 treatments of Prazi-Pro at 7 day intervals, and once daily dosing of ruby reef rally pro for 7 days (the first 7 days). All medications are used concurrently. I also often use metroplex, fenbendazole, and/or levamisole for my wrasses, especially if they seem like they are losing weight while eating well. All new fish usually get a formalin bath as well before entering quarantine, though I occasionally skip if I run out of formalin.

These treatments are often used simultaneously, and I don't usually have any issues doing so. Same quarantine regiment I use for (almost) all my fish. I do dose Microbacter7 daily to keep up with any potential ammonia spikes from heavy feeding, heavy stocking, and medicating the system causing bacterial imbalances.
 
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This guy is a complete A hole... i thought the ruby long fin fairy wrasse was suposed to be peaceful?

He chases after my Anthias. I was thinking of putting in a pintail and timor later today, but i am giving seconds thoughts, because if this guy is a ******, then i wonder about the Timor and Pintail.

I had a terminal male Ruby longfin, and he was very mean. I had to give him to my friend so he could be the only wrasse in a tank, because he 100% would’ve killed my rhomboid and pintail when I added them.

They call them “social fairy wrasse” but the 3 I’ve had over the years were all very aggressive, and their aggression wasn’t limited to just other wrasses.
 
Very nice collage. What are the two species on the right?

I liked how you made your collage so I decided to play around with some of the current wrasse (plus a friend).

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That’s awesome!!

And it’s a blue flasher and a dusky margined. Admittedly both look very different with flash.
 
My anthias learned a funny trick against my fairy.

If they get chased for a long time, they seem to go find my Orchid dottyback.
And then my dottyback kindly reminds the fairy its not big enough to be boss to it yet, freeing the anthias from its game of tag with the fairy.
 
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20240323_145448.jpg


This guy is a complete A hole... i thought the ruby long fin fairy wrasse was suposed to be peaceful?

He chases after my Anthias. I was thinking of putting in a pintail and timor later today, but i am giving seconds thoughts, because if this guy is a ******, then i wonder about the Timor and Pintail.
Biggest ****** of a wrasse I have ever owned.
 

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