The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

Fellow wrassecals! Has anybody successfully changed their wrasse's schedule or have any suggestion/opinions on how to? I have a newly acquired Melanurus Wrasse Hendrix that is active during the day when I'm not home. I've seen him come out a few times right as I'm leaving to go to work around 10:00am. Then by the time I get home from work 7:30pm when all the other fish are out and active Hendrix Is asleep buried somewhere. You may ask why would I want to change the natural progression of things? Simply put I don't want him to starve. I feed once a day in the evening when I come home from work. If I have to feed In the morning too, so be it. But thats hit or miss as he's not always out. Hoping you intelligent folk may be able to assist.
 
Fellow wrassecals! Has anybody successfully changed their wrasse's schedule or have any suggestion/opinions on how to? I have a newly acquired Melanurus Wrasse Hendrix that is active during the day when I'm not home. I've seen him come out a few times right as I'm leaving to go to work around 10:00am. Then by the time I get home from work 7:30pm when all the other fish are out and active Hendrix Is asleep buried somewhere. You may ask why would I want to change the natural progression of things? Simply put I don't want him to starve. I feed once a day in the evening when I come home from work. If I have to feed In the morning too, so be it. But thats hit or miss as he's not always out. Hoping you intelligent folk may be able to assist.

Often fish will figure it out on their own, it just may take longer in some intsances. If possible on any days you may be home, find out exactly when he buries for the day. Once you know that feed about 10-15 minutes before he goes down. Food is a huge motivation for wrasses to stay awake.
 
I'm thinking of adding 1 or 2 more wrasses and would like to consider a M. bipartitus or M. meleagris. Didn't try them early because this is my first tank (tank will be 2 yo in May) and I did not feel experienced enough for a leopard wrasse early on.

Current wrasses are C. rubrimarginatus, C. lineatus, P. mccoskeri, P. attenuatus, H. chrysotaenia and H. chrysus. Tank is 72x24. Any problems with this stocking? The lineatus is the boss but he only occasionally displays at the pink margin and ignores the other wrasse.
 
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I'm thinking of adding 1 or 2 more wrasses and would like to consider a M. bipartitus or M. meleagris. Didn't try them early because this is my first tank (tank will be 2 yo in May) and I did not feel experienced enough for a leopard wrasse early on.

Current wrasses are C. rubrimarginatus, C. lineatus, P. mccoskeri, P. attenuatus, H. chrysotaenia and H. chrysus. Tank is 72x24. Any problems with this stocking? The lineatus is the boss but he only occasionally displays at the pink margin and ignores the other wrasse.

Halichoeres wrasses can on occasion take issue with Macropharyngodon species, but that isnt usually the case. Just use a social acclimation box and you should be fine.
 
Thanks eatbreakfast! I always use an acclimation box. Fortunately though my Halichoeres wrasses are the largest in the tank they are the most laid back and docile. The Vrolik's may occasionally display at the chysus when he's in his way but never even any chasing.

Any tips on increasing success in QT? I use TTM followed by 2 weeks of Prazipro followed by 3-4 weeks of observation. Foods I commonly keep on hand..Larrys, PE mysis, frozen blood worms, Nutramar Ova (about to run out), NLS pellets.
 
Thanks eatbreakfast! I always use an acclimation box. Fortunately though my Halichoeres wrasses are the largest in the tank they are the most laid back and docile. The Vrolik's may occasionally display at the chysus when he's in his way but never even any chasing.

Any tips on increasing success in QT? I use TTM followed by 2 weeks of Prazipro followed by 3-4 weeks of observation. Foods I commonly keep on hand..Larrys, PE mysis, frozen blood worms, Nutramar Ova (about to run out), NLS pellets.

With small specimens I have found they eat small foods such as cyclopeeze and reef plankton are readily consumed, pe mysis is well liked by larger specimens.
 
I'm thinking of adding 1 or 2 more wrasses and would like to consider a M. bipartitus or M. meleagris. Didn't try them early because this is my first tank (tank will be 2 yo in May) and I did not feel experienced enough for a leopard wrasse early on.

Current wrasses are C. rubrimarginatus, C. lineatus, P. mccoskeri, P. attenuatus, H. chrysotaenia and H. chrysus. Tank is 72x24. Any problems with this stocking? The lineatus is the boss but he only occasionally displays at the pink margin and ignores the other wrasse.
With these guys the best thing you can do is be patient and wait for healthy one. I think most failure is due to improper collection and shipping. If you can find one that is out and eating at a lfs you should be ok to wean it onto frozen cyclops or mysis depending on size. My three leopards were all eating at the store and I have had no problems with them.
 
Saw this guy at the store this weekend - do you know what variety it is?
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If I put one of those will he get along with the pencil wrasse?

They will get along, though males have a tendency to revert to female coloration when kept with male congenerics and other male sand burying wrasses.
 
Hello,

I Just buy pair of Haliochoeres Claudia, but seems that the Male is always chasing the Female, they are in a quarantine now, Is it normal?

P_20150305_224241.jpg


I was thinking to add the Female first to DT, then after some days add the Male..

Thank you
 
Wrasses dont pair up like many other fish do, rather gender roles are based off of dominant/submissive social cues, which includes a degree of aggression. Problems arise, though, when a female begins transitioning into a male as consexuals are not tolerated very well, and based on the pic, it appears that both fish are at the very least transitioning into males.
 
Wrasses dont pair up like many other fish do, rather gender roles are based off of dominant/submissive social cues, which includes a degree of aggression. Problems arise, though, when a female begins transitioning into a male as consexuals are not tolerated very well, and based on the pic, it appears that both fish are at the very least transitioning into males.

Hello @eatbreakfest,
Yes, they already adult, but they are a male and a female.
I can tell this because, one has 2 black dots (male) and another has only one black dot (female)? And one its bigger than the other.
I noticed that one that have just one dot its the submissive one.

They don't fight, but the male sometimes starts to chasing the female. The sleep toghether, although they are in small tank atm (quarantine)

From the picture you can't see. But what I have is

halichoeres_claudia[1].jpg


And this

p-39354-Christmas[1].jpg


The first photo is the Male, and the second photo the female? Right?

Thank you! :)
 
Hello @eatbreakfest,
Yes, they already adult, but they are a male and a female.
I can tell this because, one has 2 black dots (male) and another has only one black dot (female)? And one its bigger than the other.
I noticed that one that have just one dot its the submissive one.

They don't fight, but the male sometimes starts to chasing the female. The sleep toghether, although they are in small tank atm (quarantine)

From the picture you can't see. But what I have is

halichoeres_claudia[1].jpg

And this

p-39354-Christmas[1].jpg

The first photo is the Male, and the second photo the female? Right?

Thank you! :)

Actually the black spots are ocelli that younger fish have up to 3 and 2 go away as they mature and H. claudia can have one in the middle of the dorsal as males. The best way to tell if one is transitioning into a male is if there is color on the caudal fin. Females have a translucent caudal fin, once it begins to develop color and patterning it has begun its transition into becoming a male.

Both photos are of males.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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