The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

petemichelle · Mar 6, 2016

Maritimer said:
You bring up an interesting thought, Eatbreakfast - would it be possible to keep a Halichoeres biocellatus or other Halichoeres ('cause I think they're pretty awesome, and leopards scare me a little...) in a tank that also contains sexy shrimp (How did they get the genus name "Thor", anyway?!), snails and featherdusters? ... Or would that just be too darned risky . . .

~Bruce

why does leopards scare you???? you seemed pretty experienced in wrasses, and I think they are the coolest looking???? what behavior puts you off about them???

Maritimer · Mar 7, 2016

I haven't researched them, quite frankly, and have heard that they're difficult to acclimate.

Lately, I've been having the _worst_ experience with wrasses . . .

~Bruce

demolitionman · Mar 7, 2016

eatbreakfast said:
If treating for disease, some may not succumb in qt, it really depends on what they died from.

What other fish specifically are in the tank? Some fish generally are ok with fairy wrasses, but some individuals within a species can harass them.

Stray voltage stays at the surface of the water, if there is an outlet for the current to travel, a fairy wrasse, which has a reputation for jumping, can be a more likely candidate for encountering it at the surface.

The tank houses a pair of Green Chromis (since prior to wrasse fiasco), Tailspot Blenny (prior), Rainfords Goby (prior), Highfin Goby (prior), Cherub Angel (prior), Two Spot Candy Hogfish (after).

I've watched carefully for aggression and see none. This tank is in my home office and I'm sitting beside it probably 12 hours a day. I seem to lose most of the wrasses at night. They are fine at lights out, and either die or disappear in the night. Wondering if there could be some predator that would find wrasses and not other fish (but that seems unlikely with fish like the tailspot being unharmed)

I just want 1 wrasse to complete the community for this tank and I'm having a heck of a time making that happen.

Very interesting about the stray voltage. How would being affected by stray voltage present itself in the actions of the fish and they way they die? Also, how would I check for it? (I definitely haven't felt anything when sticking my hand in the tank)

eatbreakfast · Mar 7, 2016

finnq86 said:
Question:
Is it bad to have 2 wrasses in one tank? I have a 300g tank with about a 5" banana wrasse and I jus faded a cleaner wrasse today. My understanding was that 2 wrasses in one tank is fine if they don't have the same color, which they don't. The banana wrasse is showing pretty strong signs of aggression I guess, he chases around the cleaner any chance he gets until I hit him with the algae scraper. Any ideas as to if this will stop eventually or what I should do will be much appreciated, thanks

If your banana wrasse is Thalassoma lutescens, then things may not get too much better for the cleaner wrasse, as Thalassoma wrasses are pretty intolerant of other wrasses. If, on the other hand, the banana wrasse is Halichoeres chrysus, then things should begin to get better.

Using a social acclimation box to introduce a new wrasse to an existing wrasse helps diffuse aggression.

petemichelle said:
I just had aNaoko's Fairy Wrasse die on me in isolation. I don't have a quarantine tank but when I got him home I took about 1 hour acclimating him and another fairy wrasse, different species. I don't know which one, but I put them each in a different isolation container that hung on the inside of my display tank. fed them 3 or 4 times at least a day, and let them get used to the other occupants. after 1 day the Naoko started to breathe really hard, and hardly move. woke up this morning, which was morning of the second day, and he was stiff as a board... dammnnnn that was a $60 wrasse.... plus pretty rare to get... I was being so careful.. he was eating at the store, and when I got him home for almost a day he ate, brine shrimp. the isolation contain was 1.75 gal, so pretty big. put it inline with the back fan so there was lots of circulation going through there but not too much, made sure the fan was turned down so that he was able to swim and sit still if he wanted to but the brine shrimp would still blow around. I am just so jaded sometimes when I do everything I can think of and still they die. any ideas for the next time guys???

and as to the leopard wrasse, how many guys have success in putting them into their display tank with out quarantine and medication for internal parasites? please sound off and let me know. if they do have any, would it spread to the other fish??? and If I did get some, should I get like 3 and put them all in at once??? same species, or different species leopard or is leopard wrasse in itself a single species? and coloration.

First, an hr acclimation is on the long side, as it opens up the fish you are acclimating to exposure to ammonia.

Was there cover, such as pvc fittings for the wrasse to hide in? Being exposed and vulnerable is very stressful to a fish.

For leopards I recommend qt, but more than a few will put them straight into a display. It is possible to treat prazipro in the display tank, it is reefsafe.

As long as there aren't males, leopards can be kept in small groups either same species or different species.

demolitionman said:
The tank houses a pair of Green Chromis (since prior to wrasse fiasco), Tailspot Blenny (prior), Rainfords Goby (prior), Highfin Goby (prior), Cherub Angel (prior), Two Spot Candy Hogfish (after).

I've watched carefully for aggression and see none. This tank is in my home office and I'm sitting beside it probably 12 hours a day. I seem to lose most of the wrasses at night. They are fine at lights out, and either die or disappear in the night. Wondering if there could be some predator that would find wrasses and not other fish (but that seems unlikely with fish like the tailspot being unharmed)

I just want 1 wrasse to complete the community for this tank and I'm having a heck of a time making that happen.

Very interesting about the stray voltage. How would being affected by stray voltage present itself in the actions of the fish and they way they die? Also, how would I check for it? (I definitely haven't felt anything when sticking my hand in the tank)

You're going to have a hard time adding a fairy wrasse to a tank with a hogfish. Hogfish are pretty intolerant of other wrasses, so although you haven't witnessed any aggression, in the future you will.

Depending on how bad the stray voltage is, sometimes it is noticeable by putting your hand in the tank, especially if you have a cut or bite your nails. In other cases a volt meter can be used. Fish that are affected by stray current are skittish and in cases of longer exposure may develop HLLE.

coraal · Mar 7, 2016

I have a quick question about the black leopard wrasse... does it usually have a pink tail?

evolved · Mar 7, 2016

Pink? Not really; mostly transparent.

coraal · Mar 7, 2016

These pics aren't that clear but both it's tail and fins are a faint redish pink color.. thought it was weird .

evolved · Mar 7, 2016

Could be the lighting, or might just actually be like that. There's variation within species.

coraal · Mar 7, 2016

Oh okay thanks!

terri_ann · Mar 8, 2016

If I buy 2 female flame fairy wrasse, will one turn into a male? Is it better to buy 1, 2 or 3 of them? I have a melanarus, yellow(can't think of the name and one other(can't think of it's name either), sorry. Would the flame(s) work. Really would like a male and female or 1 male and 2 females:0)

evolved · Mar 8, 2016

Eventually, it's quite likely both will turn male. Best to stick with only one of any species.

demolitionman · Mar 8, 2016

eatbreakfast said:
You're going to have a hard time adding a fairy wrasse to a tank with a hogfish. Hogfish are pretty intolerant of other wrasses, so although you haven't witnessed any aggression, in the future you will..

I appreciate the concern, however it doesn't help me with what I was actually asking since the Hogfish was added after all the other attempts (as I wrote). Oh well.

cnseekatz · Mar 8, 2016

petemichelle said:
and as to the leopard wrasse, how many guys have success in putting them into their display tank with out quarantine and medication for internal parasites? please sound off and let me know. if they do have any, would it spread to the other fish??? and If I did get some, should I get like 3 and put them all in at once??? same species, or different species leopard or is leopard wrasse in itself a single species? and coloration.

I don't QT my leopards. They are pretty sensitive, and I've had success introducing them immediately into the display. That being said, I only buy my leopards from local shops (as opposed to online), so that I can be sure that they're healthy and eating (basically they've been pre-QT'ed). If they aren't swimming strongly, and won't eat in front of me, I won't buy them. If they've been in the shop for at least a week, and are eating, the chances are pretty good that they'll do well in your tank.

When I get them home, I'll keep them in an isolation box for a couple days. This allows me to keep a close eye on them and lets them have a safe place to get used to the lighting schedule and their tankmates. I've had issues with aggression between leopards, both of the same species and different species. All leopard wrasses share a common genus (Macropharyngodon), but species differ (Bipartitus, geoffroy, negrosensis, choati, etc.) Most of the individuals you buy at the store will be small females, and SHOULD do okay together. If one is bigger, older or transitioning to male, you may have issues.

terri_ann · Mar 8, 2016

evolved said:
Eventually, it's quite likely both will turn male. Best to stick with only one of any species.

So are you saying evolved that most female wrasses (not just the the flame wrasse but any of the wrasse) will turn to male when buying only one of them?

eatbreakfast · Mar 9, 2016

demolitionman said:
I appreciate the concern, however it doesn't help me with what I was actually asking since the Hogfish was added after all the other attempts (as I wrote). Oh well.

It doesn't matter what the problem(s) with the wrasses were. You won't be able to add one with a hogfish.

The most likely issue is flukes. Fairy and flasher wrasses are very susceptible to flukes and if they have a lot on their gills it affects greatly their ability to breath, add to that the stress of being added to new tank, with new tankmates, of which one, has a reputation for being aggressive to new tankmates(cherub angel). Fish dying at night is not unusual, as night is an especially stressful time for new fish, but that doesn't mean it's not ich, it doesn't mean it's not aggression, or stray voltage, or anything else, this is just based on propensity for flukes and the info you have provided, but it also doesn't matter because you won't have success adding a fairy or flasher to a tank with a hogfish.

terri_ann said:
So are you saying evolved that most female wrasses (not just the the flame wrasse but any of the wrasse) will turn to male when buying only one of them?

Any of the fairy, flasher or Halichoeres wrasse.

evolved · Mar 9, 2016

terri_ann · Mar 10, 2016

Thanks for the replies you 2 :0) I ordered a large male from LA after talking to them...I should have waited to hear from you about my 2nd question! I would have bought a female since they will turn to male. I hope to talk to LA and tell them that the customer support people need to provide accurate info! I was told a female could change maybe or may stay a female! Grrrrrr! I spent twice as much money for a male as compared to the female!