The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

[eatbreakfast]

I also am not a fan of long drip acclimations, as the fish are exposed to a detrimental amount of ammonia, which is more dangerous than osmotic shock, which I have only observed when a fish has been 'forgotten' in a fw dip, not in going from low LFS salinity(.017-.020) to reef (.024-..026),

 

[4FordFamily]

Not sure if you read the part in my post about me keeping the bag in the sump when dripping to keep the temp up.

Apparently not! I think anything more than 45 minutes to an hour is overkill. I would be apt to get the fish out to where it can hide and calm down. Especially sand burrowing wrasse like leopards and halichoeres. Just my .02

 

[Greenstreet.1]

I stop drip acclimation I have not done it in over a year the most I do is temp acc.

 

[FarmerTy]

I usually match the QT salinity to the bag and allow for temp to stabilize and in it goes.

 

[evolved]

I'm still with the majority here in that I wouldn't exceed an hour. However:

Hi evolved I have a question about drip acclimation time.
My lfs keeps their salinity at 1.019. I slow drip to bring up to 1.026 with the bag in my sump to keep temp. and it usually takes 2-3 hours.
In your opinion do you think it is less stressful to change the salinity from 1.019-1.026 in such a short time then to leave them in a bag for 2-3 hours?
I haven't had a problem yet dooing it my current way(knock on wood) but in the effort to create less stress I appreciate your feedback.

Thanks

The difference for you is being you're buying the fish locally, I presume they have not been in the bag very long prior to starting your acclimation. The big concern with a long drip acclimation is ammonia build up in the water, which is a much bigger concern for a fish which has been in the bag for a day prior to arriving at your door in a box.
So I'll go out a limb and speculate that's why you haven't had a problem, but with that said I still wouldn't go much over 1.5 hours even considering the salinity difference.

 

[MJC]

Ok thanks
Yes fortunately I have never had the need to mail order my fish.
Even with the local pick up and the amount of drip that's going in the bag I'm forced to remove some water with a turkey baster every 30 minutes so the bag don't overflow ,this also must help with ammonia.

Thanks I'll still cut the drip time down a bit

 

[alton]

A question for the Wrasse Pros, If I get a Flame Wrasse Pair will I get to enjoy them for ten plus years?

 

[eatbreakfast]

A question for the Wrasse Pros, If I get a Flame Wrasse Pair will I get to enjoy them for ten plus years?

Unlikely. What will probably happen, is in a few months the female will transition into a male and will fight with the existing male. One will be forced into hiding and slowly waste away and die, the other will live for around 5-8yrs after that, barring something unforeseen.

 

[evolved]

Unlikely. What will probably happen, is in a few months the female will transition into a male and will fight with the existing male. One will be forced into hiding and slowly waste away and die, the other will live for around 5-8yrs after that, barring something unforeseen.

Yup, that sounds exactly like my prediction, provided both are still young at the time of purchase.

There's a chance you might have a m/f pair interacting for a couple years (as opposed to a few months), but that's the only part of the above I could foresee being any different.

 

[lakes1985]

My Wrasses................They like to sing

Cool wrasses what type of wrasse is the top 2 pics?

 

[evolved]

Cool wrasses what type of wrasse is the top 2 pics?

Cirrhilabrus jordani, male and female.

 

[alton]

Thanks for the info even though it was not what I wanted to hear because I had my heart set on a pair. I guess not going to happen.

 

[evolved]

Buy one, and pick a different species of Cirrhilabrus and buy one of them too.
You'll get the same displays at each other and without the complications mentioned above when doing a pair.

 

[eatbreakfast]

Buy one, and pick a different species of Cirrhilabrus and buy one of them too.
You'll get the same displays at each other and without the complications mentioned above when doing a pair.

Exactly what I was gonna say.

 

[alton]

Any suggestions on another breed to go with the flame that is docile towards tank mates

 

[Djbrandriff150]

I am thinking of adding a earlie wrasse to my collection in my 150. Any help would be awesome. I have added it to a order so I have it saved already so I have a few days to decide... This is the first I have come across in years of looking

 

[Paul87]

Would a pintail get along with an already established melenurus? The melenurus is larger as well.

 

[eatbreakfast]

Any suggestions on another breed to go with the flame that is docile towards tank mates

Most flasher wrasses would be fine, some other peaceful fairy wrasses would include, but are not limited to; rhomboidalis, cf. lanceolatus, lunatus, aurantidorsalis, and exquisitus.

 

[eatbreakfast]

I am thinking of adding a earlie wrasse to my collection in my 150. Any help would be awesome. I have added it to a order so I have it saved already so I have a few days to decide... This is the first I have come across in years of looking

They generally mix pretty well, just use a social acclimation box for introduction.

Would a pintail get along with an already established melenurus? The melenurus is larger as well.

In most cases, yes. However, established wrasses can be pushy toward new wrasse additions. Using a social acclimation box will allow you to observe possible aggressive interactions.

 

[Paul87]

They generally mix pretty well, just use a social acclimation box for introduction.


In most cases, yes. However, established wrasses can be pushy toward new wrasse additions. Using a social acclimation box will allow you to observe possible aggressive interactions.

How long would it generally need to stay in the social acclimation box?