Luckily sand isn't needed for fairies.If it is a wrasse that sleeps in the sand get some sort of open container and fill it with sand and put in the tank for it to hide and to sleep
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Luckily sand isn't needed for fairies.If it is a wrasse that sleeps in the sand get some sort of open container and fill it with sand and put in the tank for it to hide and to sleep
He'll be a lot more stressed in a small acclimation box and then in the DT with a bunch of fish that already have their territory staked out.
Two weeks and one round of Prazi is not enough to really accomplish anything. Give it some time, he'll be fine. I've QT'd 3 fish bigger than that in a 20 and a 29 without any problems. He will be a lot more ready for the big tank after getting used to you, used to captivity and fat from having no feeding competition.
A 10 gallon (this was for only 2 weeks for TTM) but they were fine.
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This was the first day in QT for these three. They finished up 7 more weeks in the 20 gallon.
A few different pieces of pvc wouldn't hurt.Thanks, will keep him in there, maybe I should get some 1.5" pvc I have one 3" T-wye and a peace of live rock.
Completely agree.He'll be a lot more stressed in a small acclimation box and then in the DT with a bunch of fish that already have their territory staked out.
Two weeks and one round of Prazi is not enough to really accomplish anything. Give it some time, he'll be fine.
+1Luckily sand isn't needed for fairies.
Highly likely, yes.Will it continue to develop into a full male with terminal coloration?
Yup.Also, some sources say these reach 3.5". Does that sound right?
Those two should work. The social fairy wrasse can be a bit 'low-key'. Definitely use a social acclimation box.I have another compatability question for the wrasse experts. Would a social wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis) get along with a melanurus?
OK thanks. Could a social acclimation box be made out of one of the clear boxes they use at the fish store if I drill some holes in it? Reason I ask , I already have a couple.Those two should work. The social fairy wrasse can be a bit 'low-key'. Definitely use a social acclimation box.
Yes, that's what mine is.OK thanks. Could a social acclimation box be made out of one of the clear boxes they use at the fish store if I drill some holes in it? Reason I ask , I already have a couple.
Cool thanks. The only other concern I have is my orchid dottyback. I read that most dotty backs clash with wrasses. My melanurus and orchid get along great. The orchid has never shown aggression however the social wrasse will be about the same size as it.Yes, that's what mine is.
Orchid dottybacks are pretty passive, I don't foresee a problem.Cool thanks. The only other concern I have is my orchid dottyback. I read that most dotty backs clash with wrasses. My melanurus and orchid get along great. The orchid has never shown aggression however the social wrasse will be about the same size as it.
I know most would probably suggest passing, but I would really like for this to work. I can get the social wrasse for almost free..
That's what I was thinking as well. Thanks everyone! I'm gonna go pick this little dude up today. Anyone else here have or did have a social fairy wrasse social wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis)?Orchid dottybacks are pretty passive, I don't foresee a problem.
OK thanks. Could a social acclimation box be made out of one of the clear boxes they use at the fish store if I drill some holes in it? Reason I ask , I already have a couple.
I used a soldering iron to melt holes rather than drill. It minimizes the risk of cracking
I keep anthias and dartfish with my wrasses.What are the best tank mates for a 150 gallon reef tank. Want to maybe add to a bunch of wrasses. As long as they don't effect my wrasses...[emoji6]
What types do you have? That seem to work best in your set upI keep anthias and dartfish with my wrasses.

