Thinking of joining saltwater... Need some help Deciding

All In One, filtration chambers are built into the tank instead of a sump.

You *can* use dechlorinated tap water but it increases your chances of problems with algae and possible contaminates.

Are the Fluval and the BioCube the AIO's because of the built in filtration? What are better AIO units on the market? I am open to anything.
 
Yes.

Innovative Marine makes some very nice AIO tanks with good support equipment. My wife wants their drop off tank (she has a 75g tank I'm assembling so she doesn't get it lol)
 
Does anyone have experience with NUVO aquariums and their effectiveness and costs. They look like amazing tanks.
 
Before you jump into anything I would recommend you do a lot of research so you can see what you are getting into. Look up different tanks, what kind of corals and fish and inverts you want to stock, then build your tank around that. Some corals and fish are way more demanding than others and that will dictate what kind of set up you need. Besides the tank you are going to need a lot more to get started. Sand (unless you want bare bottom), Live rock, heaters, pumps, lighting, skimmer, Reverse osmosis/deionizer (RO/DI), salt, refractometer, test kits, and potentially much more. I would not recommend using tap water for anything (top off, or salt mixing). Use RO/DI water or buy water from your LFS (local fish store). A reef tank is a delicate ecosystem and your tap water might contain metals and other things that can build up over time and cause major problems in a reef tank. As far as water changes they are pretty straight forward. You make some RO/DI water then add a set amount of salt to a mixing container (buckets or garbage cans depending on the amount). Use the refractometer to make sure the salinity is correct and matches the salinity in the tank. Let it mix a while until it is clear (usually with a powerhead or some kind of pump). Heat it up to the correct temperature (notice I said heaters and pumps up above). Then you just pull a set amount of water out of the tank and replace it with the newly mixed salt water. You do this for a couple of reasons and it is real important to do. One is to get rid of the bad stuff that forms in the tank that comes from the fish poop, fish food, and anything else that rots (nitrates, phosphates, and other bad stuff). the second and probably more important is to replace all the elements getting used up by the corals and other organisms (calcium, magnesium and a plethora of trace elements). Its a real simple process but is a little time consuming because usually you will want to do other things at that time (vacuuming the sandbed, replacing filter media, carbon, GFO, filter sponges, removing and cleaning the pumps, cleaning salt creep off the lights and other equipment. That's why it takes time. Once again, research. Learn about the nitrogen cycle. Learn about lighting, par, pur, lux. Whats the optimal temperature? How will you cool your tank on hot days? Whats the ugly phase and how do you minimize it? Just make sure you know what you are getting into. The tank is the cheap part. All the other equipment costs a bit and maintain costs as well.
 
Michael, AIO (all in one) tanks are so named because they have a sump built into the back of the tank as opposed to having a separate sump (usually hidden in the stand under the tank) connected by plumbing. There are several advantages of a sump; increases total water capacity (more water = more stability) plus it gives you an out of sight area to run skimmers, reactors, grow macroalgae (to eat up nutrients and starve ugly microalgae); breed pods (little creatures that some fish love to eat); place an ATO (auto top off device, which replaces evaporated tank water with fresh water- normally RO/DI or Reverse Osmosis DeIonized); more biological filters (your sand and rock in the DT - display tank- are already providing most if you biological filter), plus chemical and mechanical filtration. You can do some of that with a hang on the back (HOB) filter, but not all of it, and not as visually appealing, and not as easy to maintain.
 
I run a BioCube 32 LED, and I have (very healthy):
2 Clowns; Cherub Angel; Orchid Dotyback; Yellow Watchman Goby and Tiger Pistol Shrimp pair; Tiger Conch; blue and red hermit crabs; trochus snails; nasarius snails; zoanthids; palythoas; 3 types of leather corals; green and red mushrooms; a colony of clove polyps; a Frogspawn (LPS or large polyp stony coral); a feather duster worm; and a Coco worm.
I just shifted some stuff around, but I'll snap a pic and post it sometime this morning.
 
My little bit of .02, go bigger rather than smaller. Yes it may be more maintenance and cost more but #1 it will be a lot more stable parameter wise #2 you will want to upgrade sooner than you think. My first saltwater tank is a 40 breeder lps/softie reef, I've only had it for a year and although I love my tank the only reason I haven't upgraded is because I'm limited on space. Especially if you think you might like to have dwarf angels then they will greatly appreciate the larger tank. Good luck and welcome!
 
go with the larger tank if possible.

FWIW I recommend you start the tank with macro algae like chaetomorphia as the very first thing. then do the rest. In that way the macro algae will balance out and stabilize the system making it much more forgiving.

One way is to partition the tank to form an in tank refugium to keep the macros and livestock separated. So both can thrive. On my old 55g I just added a 1/4" square plastic grid (egg crate) 3" in front of the back glass and added 2 2tube 4' florescent utility lights 6" behind the tank pointing forward. The macro algae thrived in the area between the glass and egg crate and converted ammonia/nitrates/phosphates/co2 into oxygen and fish food.

(Eggcrate is used as lighting diffusers in dropped ceilings and costs ~$11 for a 4'x2' panel.)

You could also save money by using limestone rocks from local limestone quarries.

But all that is just me and my .02
 
Here are those pics. I do agree with the above posters, though. If you have the $ and the space, go large.
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5a4025127482db388144c946bda1281f.jpg
 
I run a BioCube 32 LED, and I have (very healthy):
2 Clowns; Cherub Angel; Orchid Dotyback; Yellow Watchman Goby and Tiger Pistol Shrimp pair; Tiger Conch; blue and red hermit crabs; trochus snails; nasarius snails; zoanthids; palythoas; 3 types of leather corals; green and red mushrooms; a colony of clove polyps; a Frogspawn (LPS or large polyp stony coral); a feather duster worm; and a Coco worm.
I just shifted some stuff around, but I'll snap a pic and post it sometime this morning.

Looks great!! What is the maintenance level for that size aquarium?
 
My little bit of .02, go bigger rather than smaller. Yes it may be more maintenance and cost more but #1 it will be a lot more stable parameter wise #2 you will want to upgrade sooner than you think. My first saltwater tank is a 40 breeder lps/softie reef, I've only had it for a year and although I love my tank the only reason I haven't upgraded is because I'm limited on space. Especially if you think you might like to have dwarf angels then they will greatly appreciate the larger tank. Good luck and welcome!

Thank you very much!
 
I dork around with it alot. Daily I feed for about 5 min. Weekly I test params and change water which is probably about 30 minutes to test (while I do something else at the same time- like check email, watch TV, etc..) and 30 to scrape down the glass, swap water and clean up. Every other week I add pulling my media rack, giving things a rinse and checking Purigen. Add 20 min if all is good, 30 if I need to change out carbon or PhosGuard. Once month I pull my skimmer, heater, pump, and powerhead and everything gets scrubbed, that's about another hour on top of the biweekly.
But I spend hours screwing around with my scape, fragging, goofing around in this fourm (!), and just watching.
 
go with the larger tank if possible.

FWIW I recommend you start the tank with macro algae like chaetomorphia as the very first thing. then do the rest. In that way the macro algae will balance out and stabilize the system making it much more forgiving.

One way is to partition the tank to form an in tank refugium to keep the macros and livestock separated. So both can thrive. On my old 55g I just added a 1/4" square plastic grid (egg crate) 3" in front of the back glass and added 2 2tube 4' florescent utility lights 6" behind the tank pointing forward. The macro algae thrived in the area between the glass and egg crate and converted ammonia/nitrates/phosphates/co2 into oxygen and fish food.

(Eggcrate is used as lighting diffusers in dropped ceilings and costs ~$11 for a 4'x2' panel.)

You could also save money by using limestone rocks from local limestone quarries.

But all that is just me and my .02

Does the macro algae need to be seperate from the invertabrates and fish? could it be in the built on filtration on the tank I am getting?
 
Also another big question... The room I am thinking of placing the tank gets a lot of natural light. It's not always direct sunlight but during the day the room is pretty bright from outside light. Is this okay? I could do a shade and try some other things to prevent the light.
 
Also another big question... The room I am thinking of placing the tank gets a lot of natural light. It's not always direct sunlight but during the day the room is pretty bright from outside light. Is this okay? I could do a shade and try some other things to prevent the light.

Same with me. You should be fine
 
Hi Michael,

Welcome to reef2reef!
I was like you a few years ago and kept freshwater tanks for a while. I really enjoyed it, but decided I wanted to try saltwater and I'm so glad I did. Reef tanks are so much fun and are definitely worth the extra work. I currently have 3 tanks. I've got a 55g reef display tank, a 40g reef, and my newest tank is a 29g Biocube. One thing I kinda regret about how I started was that I bought lots of hang on back equipment for the 55g (my first saltwater system). Although everything seemed to do the job, it just wasn't the most aesthetically pleasing if you know what I mean.

If you can get a larger tank with a sump, that's the way to go, but in all honesty I wish I had started out with the 29g Biocube. I've only had mine for a couple months now (I have mine set up as a Clownfish breeding tank at the moment) and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. Sure there are downsides, like the lights aren't that powerful so you might have to upgrade them if you want to do corals, and the Biocube skimmer isn't really that great. Overall though, I love that all the filtration is contained in the back which makes it look absolutely stunning since you don't have to have heaters and filter intakes sticking into the display. If I were you, I'd definitely go with the Biocube to start. Another thing that helps keep this tank very low in maintenance is that it has a tight fitting lid which means you don't have to top it off as much due to evaporation being so low.

Another one of the best purchases I've made for my tanks is an APEX tank controller. This allows you to monitor the temperature, salinity, pH, turn on/turn off equipment, and tons more from anywhere with an internet connection. I have a Litermeter set up on my 55g tank that automates all my water changes and tank topping off. I have really come to appreciate this tool even more now because I still have to haul around buckets of water for my other tanks whenever I top them off or do a water change.

Before you dive into all this, make sure you do your research. That's probably the most important thing to do. Reading through the vast amount of information available to help you start a saltwater tank is definitely worth it. There are a lot more things to consider than if you were starting a freshwater system, but I have been much more satisfied with the end result of my reef tanks than I ever was keeping freshwater fish.

Hope this helps a little!

-Rhyan
 
Hate to jump into this late. The fluval EVO was one of my first saltwater tanks, and has been very good. The lights on it don't allow for SPS corals (don't worry about them if you are new) but do work for LPS and soft corals. While there might not be as many fish options, you can find some pretty awesome things to stock the tank with that come in a small size (if you do your research). The bioload of photosynthetic coral is very low and would not be an issue in that tank. Throw in 15-20 lbs of live rock and 20lbs of live sand with a skimmer and you can have a great little reef with shorter maitanence time and a fraction of the cost
 
Does the macro algae need to be seperate from the invertabrates and fish? could it be in the built on filtration on the tank I am getting?
Yes and no. LOL

most fish and almost all cleaning crews eat macro algae. Hence the need to separate the two.

that said some have modified filters by not using th efilter media and growing the chaeto in the filter basked with an added light.

For seahorse tanks, the macros just provide hitches for the horses and they do not eat the macros.

my .02
 

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