Currently I have my zoas under 70w hqi, but I'm thinking of switching over to the standard Current USA AP 32w PC lightings. Honestly, I've been seeing some AP tanks with better coloring on the corals than under my hqi lights. I also want some actinic lights to get to the corals as well. It will save me some cash on the electrical bill as well I think. Any experiences with zoas under PC?
thinking of switching over from HQI to PC
- Thread starter Kigs!
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i've been searching some of the other aquapod users with PC lighting over their corals and compared to my 70w, the colors stand out more in their tanks. my 70w on the other hand, just seems dim and yellowish.
cardgenius
Paging Dr. Greenthumb!!
Dont do it. Your zoas will loose most of their color, start "stretching" for light and growth will slow to a minimum. If you decide you dont want to do MH, think about T-5 before PC. PCs are junk. I just switched from 600w of PC to 750w of MH and cant beleive it took me so long to do so.
chadfarmer
profilux in the house
what color is the 70W 10k or 20k it makes a difference on color
current usa website states 14k. maybe I will just switch over to 150w sunpaq. one of the PC lit tanks that made me ponder about switching over is this one. some of you might have seen his thread under Nano Reefs on RC.
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96169
He's running 40w sunpaq dual daylight/40w sunpaq dual actinic and he is getting some amazing colors, much better than what i'm getting. Maybe the pictures are photoshopped?
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96169
He's running 40w sunpaq dual daylight/40w sunpaq dual actinic and he is getting some amazing colors, much better than what i'm getting. Maybe the pictures are photoshopped?
The problem with some bulbs is that there isn't a true standard for K factor, sound to me like your bulb is on the lower end of spectrum. If it is yellowish then I don't think it is a or what could be called a true 14k. You should have a bit of blue or ice-blue or blueish/white appearance. I would switch bulbs to a brand that sells a 14k that is in the bluer spectrum or a 20k to get the colors that you want out of your corals. I have a sunpaq smart-lamp I think it's called 96w with 2 10k and 2 actinic and it is junk as far as I'm concerned. I have never really liked it as far as getting color out of corals and I had some bright green shrooms under it and they did nothing but fade. PCs are not one of my favorite bulb types. Go MH or T-5 long before you spend your money on some PCs. JMHO.....
I've got the 12g AquaPod with the 70w SunPod.
70w bulbs LIE! The Current USA "14k" bulb is around 6500k, the Ushio "14k" is 10k, and I plan on trying the Ushio 20k bulb next in hopes its 14k.
The amount of blue light from 70w bulbs is slim to none so far in my experience. To solve the problem, I've since added a 20" Current USA Satellite with the 40w Dual Actinic bulb.
You can see pics of my setup in the Member Tank section of the forum, though the actinic supplimentation pics at the end don't really do it justice compared to how things "pop" now in person.
I would never go back to just PCs. Despite losing color on some corals due to low K, the growth and health of them I've had since upgrading to MH speaks for itself. If I could do it over, I'd either get the 150w so I could get a good 14k or 20k bulb, or I'd get the "20k" 70w bulb with the actinic supplimentation.
70w bulbs LIE! The Current USA "14k" bulb is around 6500k, the Ushio "14k" is 10k, and I plan on trying the Ushio 20k bulb next in hopes its 14k.
The amount of blue light from 70w bulbs is slim to none so far in my experience. To solve the problem, I've since added a 20" Current USA Satellite with the 40w Dual Actinic bulb.
You can see pics of my setup in the Member Tank section of the forum, though the actinic supplimentation pics at the end don't really do it justice compared to how things "pop" now in person.
I would never go back to just PCs. Despite losing color on some corals due to low K, the growth and health of them I've had since upgrading to MH speaks for itself. If I could do it over, I'd either get the 150w so I could get a good 14k or 20k bulb, or I'd get the "20k" 70w bulb with the actinic supplimentation.
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edwing206
Visca el Barça!
I will have to disagree with you about the 70watt bulbs jonbar1. my brother just got a 70 watt 14k mh for his 10 gallon and the bulb is a VERY nice crisp blue.
Also where did you get your information?
Also where did you get your information?
I know some bulbs that are rated 14k are actually not what you would consider 14k, as far as the visible spectrum. I read an article awhile ago talking about that same subject, in fact it could have been Sanjay that wrote it.....To me any 14k bulb should have a nice icywhite/blue apparence, not a yellow whitish appearance
