This can't be normal. I want to be a good reefer. HELP

Dave Cureton · Jan 20, 2017

I didn't see a SG number. I have had issues in the past like yours when SG ran up from 2 part dosing. You also might check your water for chloramines. I believe they can get past an RO membrane. BRS sells filters specifically for them. Good luck figuring it out!

Bubblebass · Jan 20, 2017

Keep my SG at 1.024. Do you have a suggestion for chloramine tests? My city water does use chloramines, but I use the 1 micron carbon blocker in the filter system so I'm not sure how much gets through. BRS 'claims' their universal system with that filter keeps chloramines out.

Scott.h · Jan 20, 2017

I know everyone stresses over DI and claiming zero TDS. I guess really no one knows the magic number and everyone runs zero just to make sure. It depends what the TDS consists of. One of the large places within driving distance from me has a guy who's the most knowledgeable person I know in person. He says you can generally get away with TDS up until 10. Knowing your TDS is that high personally I'd start there. Like said above, shut off the gfo until you actually need it. Maybe use a par meter to verify lighting, and send a sample to triton. I'm assuming your kh dosings are small and spread out appropriately. Just throwing ideas out here. I know my wife started running a plug in oil air freshener one time and hurt a few corals and killed one in a matter of 3 days. And with a glass top. I know it was that because I had frags of that colony growing huge in a frag tank in the basement, and had the same effect.. different system, different part of the house. Could it be toxins from other corals?

Triggreef · Jan 21, 2017

Rick.45cal said:
They make a murlock ball valve that you can put inline of your product water. You can then manually split the line and send the secondary line to your DI cannisters (I would definitely use 2 in your case) and then fill a reservoir container for your tank. You don't want to drink DI water anyway!

That is likely your biggest problem, since it is making you drive your nutrients down. The thing you haven't considered is what all the other stuff is that is making up that 30TDS, probably a grab bag of stuff, maybe heavy metals etc. best to fix this first! I'd also lay of the NOPOx for awhile until your nutrients start to rise then you can adjust the dosage to compensate. I think you have likely built up a huge surplus of carbon in the system, which is compounding all your problems with your make up water.

Ding! Ding! Ding! I agree with this guy! 100 percent. So knows what that 30 tds is. Just 1 to 2 tds in my system was letting copper and zinc in if i remember correct. So just simple auto top off was adding more and more and obviously those elements don't evaporate so over time it adds up...

I suggest a $49 triton test to put your mind at ease and possibly identify the problem. Like asap because they take about 2 weeks. In the mean time ruin a good amount of cuprisorb through a reactor to be safe.

griff500 · Jan 21, 2017

Bubblebass said:
If I get the RODI to 0, it won't matter though. That's my next goal after I get my PO4 sorted out. If my LFS is the same as mine at home, what other choice would I have? Do no water changes?
Keep in mind my tank was doing alright (not great) at one point with the same water I'm using now. As I move forward I'll definitely be going for the best possible, but the immediate need will be for stuff to stop dying off.

Your tank having previously done well doesn't mean the TDS isn't the issue (or a part of the issue), as you could have accumulation over time and it eventually becomes an issue.

I wouldn't wait until phosphate is under control - I'd be sorting out the TDS as a priority as it should be quite easy to do and it absolutely can't hurt.

The Triton test suggestion was a very good one.

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

Ok ordering the triton test today. Do I test my RO water (top off) or tank water or water from my LFS (where I get my water change water) or all 3? If I need to test them all can I get less comprehensive tests for some of the tests instead of $150 on water testing?

CarrieB · Jan 21, 2017

Most important is what's in the tank.

Rick.45cal · Jan 21, 2017

Test your tank water with the triton test. Get the TDS in your water taken care of pronto, it's the worst thing you have going on right now. In the meantime I wouldn't change anymore water, it isn't doing you any favors at this point. Until you can make your own saltwater with 0 TDS DI water you are going to be struggling and corals will be dying. Once you know from the triton test what has accumulated in your tank and what they suggest you do about it, then the tank can be addressed. You can try and sort your phosphates out while all of this is going on .

You'll get there!

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

Maybe it's all in my head..... but with 2 days of no GFO or carbon running, I can already see an improvement. I swear the zoa's are opening already.....

Triton ordered.

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

Rick.45cal said:
Test your tank water with the triton test. Get the TDS in your water taken care of pronto, it's the worst thing you have going on right now. In the meantime I wouldn't change anymore water, it isn't doing you any favors at this point. Until you can make your own saltwater with 0 TDS DI water you are going to be struggling and corals will be dying. Once you know from the triton test what has accumulated in your tank and what they suggest you do about it, then the tank can be addressed. You can try and sort your phosphates out while all of this is going on . You'll get there!

Should I worry about the chloramine? Or if I get the tds to zero I'm good?

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

Just so you all know to never drink the water in LA:

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

And here's after my 6 stage RO

FishGuyBri · Jan 21, 2017

Bubblebass said:
Just so you all know to never drink the water in LA:

This is the same in ft Myers FL. I'm 450 going into my ro, 8 after membrane...

FishGuyBri · Jan 21, 2017

I ended up using spectrapure's max cap di system and it does great. I flush the membrane after every use

Rick.45cal · Jan 21, 2017

Gross! I literally drink out of a hole in the ground and I get WAY less crap in my water!

I'd get an add on 2 stage and 2 spectrapure DI cartridges, then only use that water for your tank, and test frequently. The best bet is to also make it so you can sample and test water between the DI stages so you can tell when the first cartridge starts leaking TDS, then when it is totally exhausted you move the second one to it's place and replace the second one with a brand new one. That way nothing sneaks through and you maximize your usage of the resin.

The Chloramines should be gone before they get to the RO membrane, you should have a carbon block designed for chloramines upstream of your membranes.

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

Rick.45cal said:
Gross! I literally drink out of a hole in the ground and I get WAY less crap in my water!

I'd get an add on 2 stage and 2 spectrapure DI cartridges, then only use that water for your tank, and test frequently. The best bet is to also make it so you can sample and test water between the DI stages so you can tell when the first cartridge starts leaking TDS, then when it is totally exhausted you move the second one to it's place and replace the second one with a brand new one. That way nothing sneaks through and you maximize your usage of the resin.

The Chloramines should be gone before they get to the RO membrane, you should have a carbon block designed for chloramines upstream of your membranes.

Thanks!!

My RO goes to a 10g holding tank then to my RO faucet.

So....put the 3 way valve after the RO unit but before the DI canisters and another one for testing between the canisters. Put a line from the canisters as an "out to tank", and collect for making tank water directly from that line when needed? Won't it take hours to fill a few gallons?

Bubblebass · Jan 21, 2017

Btw just did another PO4 test. Totally zero. And I need a Hanna checker I think. Between 0.1 and 0.03 are tough to figure out.

Rick.45cal · Jan 21, 2017

Bubblebass said:
Thanks!!

My RO goes to a 10g holding tank then to my RO faucet.

So....put the 3 way valve after the RO unit but before the DI canisters and another one for testing between the canisters. Put a line from the canisters as an "out to tank", and collect for making tank water directly from that line when needed? Won't it take hours to fill a few gallons?

I think you've got it! Yes it takes awhile to collect water. It's best to set up 2 storage containers, one to make saltwater in, and one to save DI in for top off. You use DI water only to fill both. You'll probably want to install float valves for each one so you don't have to remember to shut it off yourself, it will save you many messes.