this guy want a beaslbob trap?

[beaslbob]

perhaps someone who can post there would want to tell this guy of the pvc overflow beaslbob trap.

WTB/WTT overflow boxes - Reef Central Online Community

or perhaps H@rry's 1/2 drunk engineer design is not worthy of their consideration. :sure:


my .02

 

[zaozao]

Hey beasl
Its me.
Do you have a link to this trap of yours.

 

[zaozao]

I have used a DIY pvc overflow before, just cant remember if I liked it or not(noise).

 

[zaozao]

And should I trust a fellow that RC doesnt?
:doubt:

 

[beaslbob]

I have used a DIY pvc overflow before, just cant remember if I liked it or not(noise).

gee this worked out pretty good. Tomoko or H@rry doesn't have to quote and post on rc.

I am shooting blind here as photobucket links are blocked by the browser at work.

my first effort:

second try:

and third design

These are much more quiet than any hob two container overflows that do not have some kind of durso or stockman. the key to getting them quiet to vent the air into the drain and trap the water rushing noise inside the pipe with then ends both blocked with water. to prevent the final little bit of rushing noise to slow down the water in the drain.

 

[beaslbob]

And should I trust a fellow that RC doesnt?
:doubt:

You could spend $5-$10 and build a simple test rig and run it on your kitchen sink.

That should tell you who to trust. :sure:


Ps I wouldn't trust me either.

 

[zaozao]

And now the step by step instructions for those of us (ME) that need more than a picture.

 

[beaslbob]

And now the step by step instructions for those of us (ME) that need more than a picture.

Gee looks to me to be self evident from the pictures.


Oh yea I built the thing. :wink:

Will try to get a better explanation at home tonight.

The basic operation is that the actual overflow occurs after the external "u" inside the pipe. The external "U" traps water under power out and prevents draining the tank. When power returns the siphon is still good, water rises and starts overflowing and draining to the sump. A lot of the "extra" stuff is to prime the "u" for initial operation and to insure any air is sucked out of the hob siphon. I did find out that the priming is important when on another forum a poster tried to duplicate this without the priming and took forever to get it going.

Those of us NARCS from a couple of years ago may even remember me demostrating this at a local club meeting.

Most of us are fortunate enough to have missed that demonstration by what was later called this mad scientist. :wink:

my .02

 

[beaslbob]

And now the step by step instructions for those of us (ME) that need more than a picture.

Actually If you are near huntsville it would be easier if I showed you.

I'm in the process of building a new house and getting the current house cleaned up for sale. Not much time left over right now.

my .02

 

[H@rry]

or perhaps H@arry's 1/2 drunk engineer design is not worthy of their consideration. :sure:

I'm sorry?

 

[H@rry]

And should I trust a fellow that RC doesnt?
:doubt:

You absolutely can!

 

[zaozao]

I am usually in Huntsville every work day, but I am out on medical leave for a few weeks. Maybe I can figure it out.
New House? Have you decided where to purchase your sheet rock from? Vulcan over on Castle Drive can get you what you need. Tell'em Manny sent ya!

 

[beaslbob]

I'm sorry?

I give up



























are you?

 

[beaslbob]

I am usually in Huntsville every work day, but I am out on medical leave for a few weeks. Maybe I can figure it out.
New House? Have you decided where to purchase your sheet rock from? Vulcan over on Castle Drive can get you what you need. Tell'em Manny sent ya!

Ok just ask any questions you have.

House is being built by jeff Benton homes.

FWIW I got surge rocks for my tank near the quarry back in 2003 or so.

 

[zaozao]

What was wrong with your first attempt

 

[zaozao]

Vulcan doesnt handle Benton Homes.

 

[beaslbob]

What was wrong with your first attempt

Not much actually except it was hard to mount on the tank. There is an almost invisible rigid airline tubing on the right side holding up that side. the revised designs just set on the tank.

 

[zaozao]

How many gphs did you get from the single design.

 

[beaslbob]

reference:

The clear tube on the left is the return line.

1 is the hob siphon
2 is the water trap
3 is where the water overflows to 4
4 is the drain
5 is an airline tubing that goes to the return pump to suck out any air in the siphon 1
6 is the trap (2) primer.

5 on the later designs were just hooked to a venturi on the powerheads to suck out air in the siphons.

On the return lines I "teed" the returns to the actual return lines and the prime lines. By adjusting valves I could have all the return go to either the actual return lines or the trap prime lines.

So on start up I would adjust the valves so that all the pumped water was directed to the prime line. I could even block the drain(4) at the sump and use the prime lines to fill the tank from the sump. I then adjust the valves to almost all the pumped water goes to the return and remove the block. At that point tank water would start draining to the sump.

I would leave a trickle of water going to the prime to insure the water trap always had water.

Above the drain there is a small air bleed hole to allow air to enter and prevent siphon at 3.

I think I used 1" or maybe 1 1/4" pvc on this and as pictured the tank has a mag5 pumping against a 4' head. This was quiet.

The other designs uses 2" pvc at the center with adapters. I also used sanitary tees at the center because the tees had a rounded path vrs the square tees. There was a water rushing sound with the larger square tees as the water crashed against the pvc sides.

I learned a lot by using the test setup and recommend doing that before building on the tank.

One final design consideration. The bottom of the water trap (2) might better go all the way down to below the tank bottom next to the tank stand. That way the trap could "fixed" to the stand using hose clamps.

You could also run the in tank pvcs back up to do a surface skimming function.

I seem to be proned to initially positioning the overflow area higher then it runs at. Plan for the tank water level to be at 1/2-3/4's the diameter of the horizontal section.

Let me know if you need a better description. One thing I do at home depot is lay out the parts in the cart to see how they will all go together.

my .02

 

[zaozao]

Thanks Beasl
Probably have all the parts laying around here somewhere.
Do you think this design would still run quiet with the surface skimmer?