This is beyond my knowledge. Help please

[RJ F.]

Hey family. I've been going back and forth with this issue since starting my tank just about a year ago. Hang on this might be long winded. I really just need some sound advice please.

When I setup my tank I chose to do a fishless cycle. I elevated the ammonia to 2ppm dumped in a couple bottles of bio spira and let nature take its course. I would dose ammonia as needed to feed the bacteria. I quickly watched it go to nitrite then nitrate. When all was good I added my first fish. THAT WAS THE ONLY TIME I COULD EVER READ NITRATES. I HAVE NEVER READ PHOSPHATE.

On to the issue at hand. I immediately added chaeto so I assumed that's where all the nutrients were going. I have what I would call a successful reef however I do not think its thriving. I have great growth from all my corals but my coloration is bland. At least to me. It still looks great under heavy blues and all. The only corals that dont grow are my zoas. They are either the same size or have melted. I've gone through so many articles about low nitrates and phosphate hurting corals also the vacancy of iodine as it pertains to zoas specifically.

I have gha and some other algae, maybe turf. As well as I can grow algae in an algae scrubber as well as chaeto. So I cant believe that my nutrients would be zero. I would assume because of the algae that the nutrients are being consumed and throwing off the test. However with the decline of my zoas it just leaves me to ponder.

Can anyone please shed some light or even an article that I may gain some clarity? I also get bubbles as if dinos are present but normally GHA will outcompete the dinos due to the poor nutrient uptake of dinos. I'm just stumped. If you made it this far thank you!

 

[Is this the LFS]

Sorry I may of missed something. Is your question asking why you can’t grow zoas or why you have algae growing but still no visible nitrates?

 

[Mykawl]

It has been said zoas like dirty water, feed more even if fish don’t eat. Also list all your parameters
Salinity temp alkalinity calcium magnesium

 

[TXReefer89]

What type of lights, intensity, and duration are you running? Green hair algae is most likely caused from phosphates + light. Are you running a GFO reactor along with chaeto? The light intensity could also be causing your zoas to "melt."

 

[RJ F.]

Sorry for not being clear. My question is both. Why cant I show nitrate/phosphate? Is that the reason my zoas arent growing? Also how do I have algae blooms with no nutrients?

Parameters:
Sg 1.025
Ca 430
Alk 8.6
Mg 1400
NO3 0
PO4 0
Temp 78

Lights are viparspectra 300w. Blues on 40% white 10%. Using t5 supplemental. 2 blue plus, 1 purple plus, 1 true atinic. Lights are 18" off water.

I do not run GFO because everytime I do I get a dino bloom. I run a protein skimmer, activated carbon, and chaeto. I removed the scrubber in fear it was cleaning too well.

 

[RJ F.]

Duration of blues is 7 hours. Whites are 5 hours. T5 are 5 hours

 

[RJ F.]

I also feed 1 cube of mysis everyday as well as a 3"x3" piece of nori. I feed corals twice a week with a reef roid, reef chili, coral amino mixture. I mix heavy to create a sort of paste

 

[TXReefer89]

You're probably not reading phosphate because the Green hair algae is consuming it as it develops. The algae cannot grow without nutrients. You're feeding pretty heavily, I'd place a large bet you have nutrients.

 

[Mykawl]

What test kits are you using, how long ago did you remove the skimmer, agree with above sounds like your feeding plenty. Interested to see what others think everything seems really good.

what salt are you using, my only guess is alk and mag a tiny bit high for 0 detectable nutrients.

Edit: though I don’t feel comfortable suggesting you lower either of those if that’s where you normally keep them.

 

[Is this the LFS]

Sorry for not being clear. My question is both. Why cant I show nitrate/phosphate? Is that the reason my zoas arent growing? Also how do I have algae blooms with no nutrients?

Parameters:
Sg 1.025
Ca 430
Alk 8.6
Mg 1400
NO3 0
PO4 0
Temp 78

Lights are viparspectra 300w. Blues on 40% white 10%. Using t5 supplemental. 2 blue plus, 1 purple plus, 1 true atinic. Lights are 18" off water.

I do not run GFO because everytime I do I get a dino bloom. I run a protein skimmer, activated carbon, and chaeto. I removed the scrubber in fear it was cleaning too well.

Like other people said, the algae is probably uptaking nitrates and phosphates before you can get a reading. And maybe your water is too clean for zoas. I also know there are people who for some reason just can’t seem to keep zoas

 

[RJ F.]

That's why this baffles me. I would agree with the nutrients as well because of the algae. However it bottoms out fast if I add gfo. I dont even use a reactor. That's just gfo in the bag sitting in my sump.

I forgot to mention my tank is a 40b with a 29 sump. 60 gallons total water volume.

I still run my skimmer. I removed the algae scrubber

*edit. By nutrients bottom out I mean I get dino blooms very fast

 

[RJ F.]

I also use the salifert kits

 

[RJ F.]

Like other people said, the algae is probably uptaking nitrates and phosphates before you can get a reading. And maybe your water is too clean for zoas. I also know there are people who for some reason just can’t seem to keep zoas

So you're saying that I have nutrients to grow algae just not enough to have a "dirty" tank. Of course that would be me lol.

So how would i remedy this? Kill algae but have enough nutrients to keep zoas. In the past 9 months I've had a hammer go from 1 head to 4. All my lps and sps and even nems are doing really well

 

[RJ F.]

I can try GFO again I just hate dinos with a passion. Even now I have "dino bubbles"

 

[Mykawl]

If you’re tank is doing that well I wouldn’t change anything unless someone more experienced chimes in, definitely don’t use gfo though.
pics might shed some light full tank shot and refugium

 

[RJ F.]

Pics

 

[RJ F.]

More

 

[mta_morrow]

I would scrape and siphon the algae off the back wall. If your fish are eating all the food, then you are not over feeding. I personally think you are under feeding. Run your skimmer during the day, or during the night until nutrients become reasonable like 10-20 nitrates and .05-.1 phosphates. Then start running your skimmer 24/7 again. Then begin to manage and maintain nutrient levels.
dinos stink! They are bad. Algae is normal, needed, and easy to control or defeat.

 

[RJ F.]

I even have been running a filter sock and purposely not cleaning it. I didnt have good pics of the algae but it's all over the rocks too. I pull it once a week

 

[mta_morrow]

Ok, you have nutrients! One of the best investments I ever made was the Hanna ULR phosphorus checker, and a Red Sea nitrate pro test kit. IMO you must KNOW what your nutrients are. Anything else is just a rough guesstimate. Still, remove all algae and keep sock in to catch it. Do your water changes and get some really good test kit. Honestly you can get no good, sound advice if your current test kits are reading zero. I will be happy to help you get things in order!