Thoughts on DIY Stand

[yellow05gt]

I am building my stand this weekend for my 440 Acrylic display tank and would like your thoughts. It will be built out of 8-4x4 posts and 2x6s everywhere else. With ¾" plywood topper. I attached the CAD i did to show you the overall design.

 

[blaxsun]

For a tank that size you may want a different mount or setup for your lighting, ie: something that raises/lowers or swings away for maintenance. Looks like an ambitious project!

 

[vetteguy53081]

If the light mounts can be made to be adjustable height- Looks very solid. Consider for the lights- acrylic or PVC

 

[redfishbluefish]

Don't use 4x4's. They tend to be cut from the middle of the tree and will warp and twist....very unstable. Better off simply doubling up 2-bys if you want that thickness. For the corners, I'd go with two 2-bys that make an "L".....as seen in @RocketEngineer 's drawing here...purple boards:

 

[HuduVudu]

I would use T-Slot for the lighting.

2x4s are fine just make sure that once you get them cut and put together that you seal them. I use Varthane this has worked for me for over 20 years.

 

[yellow05gt]

Don't use 4x4's. They tend to be cut from the middle of the tree and will warp and twist....very unstable. Better off simply doubling up 2-bys if you want that thickness. For the corners, I'd go with two 2-bys that make an "L".....as seen in @RocketEngineer 's drawing here...purple boards:

So I do have the Ls like this drawing they’re just wrapped around the 4x4s. Do you think with them mounted to all the 2x6s it would still warp and not work? Thank you for the feedback! It’s all much appreciated everyone.

 

[yellow05gt]

I would use T-Slot for the lighting.

2x4s are fine just make sure that once you get them cut and put together that you seal them. I use Varthane this has worked for me for over 20 years.

The lighting is pretty much just to get it on the tank. So it’s definitely a work in progress. I do like the T Slot idea for sure.

 

[redfishbluefish]

So I do have the Ls like this drawing they’re just wrapped around the 4x4s. Do you think with them mounted to all the 2x6s it would still warp and not work? Thank you for the feedback! It’s all much appreciated everyone.

Definitely get rid of the 4x4's. The only thing they would be doing is aligning the "L", similar to the light green boards in my diagram above. The load of the upper frame (and tank) need to be transferred directly to the frame/floor below and not rely on screws or nails to hold that weight. The load is transferred in the "L" corners and center verticals that are directly below the upper frame.

 

[vpierce3]

I just built a custom stand and light bar. Check out my build thread.

 

[bruno3047]

The first thing I would suggest is letting the wood dry out in an air-conditioned space for at least a month so that any twisting and warping is finished before you start. If you didn’t do that and you already started, I would wait until all the twisting and warping is done before adding the top platform. You should definitely wait until the wood has dried out before sealing it. Use Southern Yellow Pine for the framing members, if you can find it. It’s heavier and twice as strong as Whitewood. In addition, I would definitely have some type of foam material between the tank and the platform to absorb any inconsistencies in the top platform. Here’s link to my build thread.

Build Thread - Completely DIY 315 build

Just wanted to start my build thread, even though I still have a ways to go before it’s complete. I’ll start with a FTS of my current tank. A recently converted FOWLR 125. This was a Petsmart Black Friday Special that I bought for $349, no tax, at the local Petsmart. This is what I bought...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[clarimore]

I just built a custom stand and light bar. Check out my build thread.

how did yiu make the light rack? I love the sleek look!

 

[vpierce3]

how did yiu make the light rack? I love the sleek look!

Thanks. I bought some 5/8” aluminum bar (6160) at a local Metal Mart. Cut the pieces I needed and then TIG welded it together. The lights are mounted with 10-32 machine screws through holes drilled in the top support bar. The screws go directly into the factory threaded holes on the back of the Hydra 32s. The power cables are zip-tied to the back of the support bar to keep the clean look.

 

[KWolfe81]

Thanks. I bought some 5/8” aluminum bar (6160) at a local Metal Mart. Cut the pieces I needed and then TIG welded it together. The lights are mounted with 10-32 machine screws through holes drilled in the top support bar. The screws go directly into the factory threaded holes on the back of the Hydra 32s. The power cables are zip-tied to the back of the support bar to keep the clean look.

Wow, that is VERY nicely done!