Thoughts on new halide setup (par levels)

[reefwiser]

I would keep it at 8 hours. Really will not gain anything with going 2 hours more. Man I have high Par running a 150w 20k bulb with the reefbrite fixture.
Is this tank for grow out for your frag business.

 

[Velcro]

I would keep it at 8 hours. Really will not gain anything with going 2 hours more. Man I have high Par running a 150w 20k bulb with the reefbrite fixture.
Is this tank for grow out for your frag business.

It's just a single 400 watt over a 36x36x25 tank though so not crazy high par at all as you can see from my par values in the first post. I'd feel better having 200-250 at the bottom acros.

 

[Velcro]

So I'm trying to decide on my supplemental lighting. I have two options.

I'm either going to put 2 36" t5 on each side of the reflector (overdriven on icecap 660 ballast) and then two 24" reefbrite XHO actinics on the front and back of the reflector OR a 4 30" reefbrite XHO actinics, one on each side of the halide.

If I go t5, I tested out a cheap t5 fixture I have with the halide on and I really like 2blue+ and 2coral+ with the radium. I'd be interested to see 2Blue+ and 2purple+.

 

[jda]

My favorite T5 tank overdrives them with IceCap. Ed's tank. Do you have good reflectors in the retro kit? If so, then I would do this and the pair of XHOs. I imagine that you are thinking the overdriven T5s for more output and the XHO for pop? Did the T5s even make a difference with the Radium running?

If you are worried about PPFD, then get that up to 10-11 hours. I would not be, though. Total Light Index (or something like that) is a Dana Riddle piece about lower PPFD for more hours is just as good as higher PPFD for less. Let your eyes be the judge. If you are getting good color and growth, then you are all good.

 

[Velcro]

My favorite T5 tank overdrives them with IceCap. Ed's tank. Do you have good reflectors in the retro kit? If so, then I would do this and the pair of XHOs. I imagine that you are thinking the overdriven T5s for more output and the XHO for pop? Did the T5s even make a difference with the Radium running?

If you are worried about PPFD, then get that up to 10-11 hours. I would not be, though. Total Light Index (or something like that) is a Dana Riddle piece about lower PPFD for more hours is just as good as higher PPFD for less. Let your eyes be the judge. If you are getting good color and growth, then you are all good.

The blue+ with coral+ was noticeable believe it or not. The XHOs are just for the before and after hours viewing. I have some acros that really look best under the fake lighting haha.

 

[docsky729]

Is your bulb centered in your reflector? Some bulbs are larger and smaller depending on brand. If you can adjust this you might be able to gain more par. I run the old lumanarchs and I can slide my bulbs in and out to get them in the perfect sweet spot.

 

[Velcro]

Is your bulb centered in your reflector? Some bulbs are larger and smaller depending on brand. If you can adjust this you might be able to gain more par. I run the old lumanarchs and I can slide my bulbs in and out to get them in the perfect sweet spot.

Yea, the inner bulb is centered. Par is very even.

 

[docsky729]

I will double check my numbers but I recently test out one of the 20” lumebrite octogon shape reflectors. I run icecaps 400 watt ballast and plus right 20k bulbs on a 3oodd tank. I was getting 400par dead center on the sandbed and around 250 at the glass. Tank is 36” wide. Reflector is maybe 8”-10” above the water. No glass on it. I used a apogee qmss-e par meter of that means anything.

 

[docsky729]

I should say my old lumanarchs give me super even spread around 200 on sand bed from front of glass to back.

 

[Velcro]

I will double check my numbers but I recently test out one of the 20” lumebrite octogon shape reflectors. I run icecaps 400 watt ballast and plus right 20k bulbs on a 3oodd tank. I was getting 400par dead center on the sandbed and around 250 at the glass. Tank is 36” wide. Reflector is maybe 8”-10” above the water. No glass on it. I used a apogee qmss-e par meter of that means anything.

Seems a lot higher than what I'm seeing on my 150DD for sure... Surprising numbers actually.

 

[jda]

He wants to keep the glass on. I would take it off, but I totally understand the thought to protect the fixture... but wiping down the aluminum is just part of the deal for me... and it should not rust. It is good to know that the PPFD boost is there if needed later. I have both the Lumenbrite Large and the Cpzumel Sun. The Cozumel does spread a bit more than the Large Lumenbrite, but they both are made for larger tanks. The Cozumel would probably be something like 325 from the glass to the middle in your 300dd - it is a boss at getting the light out evenly without much, or any, of a center hotspot.

 

[Velcro]

Well I'm at just over 3 weeks post switch to halide. Still haven't added any more light and the par numbers in the original post are accurate. The shortcake, aussie gold, vivid confetti and mother of pearl are at about 130-140 par,

 

[htownguy]

hi velcro,
I have almost the same light and tank dimensions. cozumel reflector with a 400w 14k hamilton. 30x30x18 tank. I ran it halide only for 2 years. had pretty good growth and colors and never really thought about adding extra light. I did have a pair of reef brites in blue for more pop but dindt notice any extra growth from them. Then about 3 months ago I decided to add t5's. The growth explosion was unreal. Alk consumption went through the roof and my colors are the best i've seen on my tank. I went with 2 blue+ and 2 coral+. Wish I had a apogee to see my par levels but i dont. I can tell you though adding the t5 put my tank on hyper drive. Dosing 140ml of b-ionic 2 part at the moment in that little tank.

 

[Velcro]

hi velcro,
I have almost the same light and tank dimensions. cozumel reflector with a 400w 14k hamilton. 30x30x18 tank. I ran it halide only for 2 years. had pretty good growth and colors and never really thought about adding extra light. I did have a pair of reef brites in blue for more pop but dindt notice any extra growth from them. Then about 3 months ago I decided to add t5's. The growth explosion was unreal. Alk consumption went through the roof and my colors are the best i've seen on my tank. I went with 2 blue+ and 2 coral+. Wish I had a apogee to see my par levels but i dont. I can tell you though adding the t5 put my tank on hyper drive. Dosing 140ml of b-ionic 2 part at the moment in that little tank.

Thanks for this. You definitely make a strong case and that's the bulb combo that I'm considering.

 

[TexasTodd]

I'd lower the light some and/or take the glass off. If I remember correctly Sanjay or someone did testing and glass cut like 25%. LED's higher up, MH closer to water surface is better. I always ran some VHO or T5 with MH.

 

[Velcro]

I'd lower the light some and/or take the glass off. If I remember correctly Sanjay or someone did testing and glass cut like 25%. LED's higher up, MH closer to water surface is better. I always ran some VHO or T5 with MH.

I have wrasses that splash a lot. I have lowered the fixture to like 8" water to glass. I really don't want to stain the reflector. I'm going to add t5. I'm just trying to decide between 4 bulbs on a icecap 660 vs 6 bulbs with real t5 ballasts.

 

[Scorpius]

I run a 6 bulb ati with 3 blue+ and 3 coral+. My alkalinity and calcium consumption nearly doubled over a month.

 

[Velcro]

I run a 6 bulb ati with 3 blue+ and 3 coral+. My alkalinity and calcium consumption nearly doubled over a month.

What were you running before?

 

[Scorpius]

What were you running before?

Kessil/t5 hybrid. Found out the T5's were doing most of the work so I went full t5.

 

[TexasTodd]

Well, your clam looks good down on the sand, so things must be okay.
I actually never measured PAR in any of the tanks I ran MH on.