Thoughts on results..

[K7BMG]

Everybody has high TIN. Don't know why but its true.

I just got my results back today.
The tank is completely new just starting the cycle.
The sump is new.
The only thing I have used for my old system is the Varios 8 return pump, and that is less than a year old, and has been closely inspected.
100 lbs of bleach cleaned, then soaked in Prime for 48 hours, then dried for two months rock.
80 lbs of new triple rinsed by myself crushed coral for the bed.

So there is no tin item or other metal item corroding in or around the tank or sump.
I use Tropic Marin Pro salt that is Triton recommended by the way, but my Tin is through the roof.

My RO/DI system is above and beyond most others and have replaced all the media prior to making the water for this tank.
In this order

One Big Blue canister filter with a 5005 sediment filter before the BRS 7 stage RO/DI unit
One new BRS Sediment filter
Two new BRS charcoal cartridges
Two new BRS RO filters.
fresh BRS DI resins installed to include
20 inches of Cation
20 inches of Anion
20 inches of mixed bed
All were replaced before I made the water for this system.
Salinity was read by my Hanna HI98319 to read 1.026. Was actually 1.030.
(I now know the Hanna was faulty, link to my Hanna post .)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hanna-hi98319-salinity-checker.685821/
I took the sample before I added my bacteria to start the tank cycle, and with the salinity at 1.030 as I trusted the Hanna.

I am on a well so no chlorines to remove, but explains the high nutrients IMO.

So my results at a 1.030 salinity. The critical items I highlighted.

 

[K7BMG]

 

[K7BMG]

 

[Larry L]

Everybody has high TIN. Don't know why but its true.

Tin is used as a stabilizer during the production of PVC. There's also some speculation that if a glass aquarium is built with any of the panes facing float-side in, then some tin might leach from the surface (since float glass is usually floated on tin).

I had high tin on my first ICP test, ran some Poly-Bio-Marine Poly Filter pads for a while, has not been a problem since.

 

[K7BMG]

Tin is used as a stabilizer during the production of PVC. There's also some speculation that if a glass aquarium is built with any of the panes facing float-side in, then some tin might leach from the surface (since float glass is usually floated on tin).

I had high tin on my first ICP test, ran some Poly-Bio-Marine Poly Filter pads for a while, has not been a problem since.

Hey thx for the input.
I will have to check out the pads and run them for a while as well.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Everybody has high TIN. Don't know why but its true.

I just got my results back today.
The tank is completely new just starting the cycle.
The sump is new.
The only thing I have used for my old system is the Varios 8 return pump, and that is less than a year old, and has been closely inspected.
100 lbs of bleach cleaned, then soaked in Prime for 48 hours, then dried for two months rock.
80 lbs of new triple rinsed by myself crushed coral for the bed.

So there is no tin item or other metal item corroding in or around the tank or sump.
I use Tropic Marin Pro salt that is Triton recommended by the way, but my Tin is through the roof.

My RO/DI system is above and beyond most others and have replaced all the media prior to making the water for this tank.
In this order

One Big Blue canister filter with a 5005 sediment filter before the BRS 7 stage RO/DI unit
One new BRS Sediment filter
Two new BRS charcoal cartridges
Two new BRS RO filters.
fresh BRS DI resins installed to include
20 inches of Cation
20 inches of Anion
20 inches of mixed bed
All were replaced before I made the water for this system.
Salinity was read by my Hanna HI98319 to read 1.026. Was actually 1.030.
(I now know the Hanna was faulty, link to my Hanna post .)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hanna-hi98319-salinity-checker.685821/
I took the sample before I added my bacteria to start the tank cycle, and with the salinity at 1.030 as I trusted the Hanna.

I am on a well so no chlorines to remove, but explains the high nutrients IMO.

So my results at a 1.030 salinity. The critical items I highlighted.

well, let’s not exaggerate. I had no detectable tin in my Triton icp testing.