Thoughts on this cyno / dino / algae?

russell.dexter

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
82
Reaction score
62
Location
Nassau, Bahamas
What state or country do you live in
Other International
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi guys,

This is in a 36 bow. Four months old with seeded live rock. It's been going quite well until the outbreak of this slime that's suffocating most of my macro and irritating most of the corals.

Alk: 9
Calcium: 405
Mag : 1200
Nitrate: 0 (for a long while now)
Phos: 0.015 (barely noticeable on salifert higher sensativity test)

Any ideas?
BB83962C-8C4A-41BF-B6EB-3FFFBBCB93A2.jpeg
54CABB67-4951-4ABF-B6A4-216B5C0F9EB7.jpeg
 
That could be cyano due to your nutrients being too low. I’d try raising the nitrates and phosphates to see if that helps. You could add more food or use nitrate and phosphate supplements. Brightwell makes some good ones.
 
That could be cyano due to your nutrients being too low. I’d try raising the nitrates and phosphates to see if that helps. You could add more food or use nitrate and phosphate supplements. Brightwell makes some good ones.
Thanks a lot for your feedback. It's been frustrating seeing the levels continually drop no matter how much I feed etc.

I had been using an api test kit during startup and never really picked up any nitrates after the inital cycle had finished - I switched to salifert kits to confirm the readings.

Nitrates are always zero- occasionally I will be able to notice a slight colour change when testing for phospates after a heavy reef roids feeding, but it always bottoms out the next day. (And it's never more than a slight colour change from clear- doesn't register on the chart)

It's legal where I live to collect live rock - so I'm wondering if I just managed to collect an absolute beast strain of de-nitryifing bacteria. I had a few species of macro in the display but they just collapsed and dissolved over time - and I am having to manually remove films of cyno from covering corals daily.

Both soft and lps have never really grown - and I'm sure it's because of the lack of nutrients.

I'm getting some Brightwell by mail order within the next week and will try dosing.

I'm not sure how I ended up with a ULNS system.
 
Last edited:
Thanks a lot for your feedback. It's been frustrating seeing the levels continually drop no matter how much I feed etc.

I had been using an api test kit during startup and never really picked up any nitrates after the inital cycle had finished - I switched to salifert kits to confirm the readings.

Nitrates are always zero- occasionally I will be able to notice a slight colour change when testing for phospates after a heavy reef roids feeding, but it always bottoms out the next day. (And it's never more than a slight colour change from clear- doesn't register on the chart)

It's legal where I live to collect live rock - so I'm wondering if I just managed to collect an absolute beast strain of de-nitryifing bacteria. I had a few species of macro in the display but they just collapsed and dissolved over time - and I am having to manually remove films of cyno from covering corals daily.

Both soft and lps have never really grown - and I'm sure it's because of the lack of nutrients.

I'm getting some Brightwell by mail order within the next week and will try dosing.

I'm not sure how I ended up with a ULNS system.
I recommend Hanna Checker for PO4 testing and Nyos for nitrates. You might also be dealing with inaccurate test info.
 
I recommend Hanna Checker for PO4 testing and Nyos for nitrates. You might also be dealing with inaccurate test info.
Thanks for this. I've thought about this too- I switched to salifert from api, but it is possible of course for this test to be off too...

I actually am going to the mainland at the end of month and will take some tank water in for testing at an LFS to recheck.

I may go ahead and order the test kits you suggest in the meantime though.

I would hate to start dosing nutrients and then realise my tests were just inaccurate. :/
 
Are you running a fuge or any nutrients reducing chemical media? Did you dose MB7?

I had to double dose neophos and neonitro for several weeks to get measurable numbers. Cut your lights back to 6 hours with no whites to slow the spread until you balance your parameters.
 
Are you running a fuge or any nutrients reducing chemical media? Did you dose MB7?

I had to double dose neophos and neonitro for several weeks to get measurable numbers. Cut your lights back to 6 hours with no whites to slow the spread until you balance your parameters.
No fuge -( no sump actually). Just two HOB's with mechanical and chemical media. I was using chemipure blue but pulled it when I couldn't get a reading for phospates or nitrates. I have replaced with regular carbon.

I will cut my lights back to six hours tomorrow

No MB7 but I did have some aquavitro seed from when I started the tank.... I have been dosing that daily.

I should have the Brightwell products early next week and will get in another brand of nitrate test kit to double check the prams.

Something is definitely up with nutrients though - I have been struggling to get even gsp to spread - and all the corals look small and dull. Of course the sheets of cyno is irritating the whole tank as well...

It just seems so strange that a tank with no sump, no fuge and just a few hobs could not have nitrate or phosphate - but it's been an issue from the end of cycle
 
No fuge -( no sump actually). Just two HOB's with mechanical and chemical media. I was using chemipure blue but pulled it when I couldn't get a reading for phospates or nitrates. I have replaced with regular carbon.

I will cut my lights back to six hours tomorrow

No MB7 but I did have some aquavitro seed from when I started the tank.... I have been dosing that daily.

I should have the Brightwell products early next week and will get in another brand of nitrate test kit to double check the prams.

Something is definitely up with nutrients though - I have been struggling to get even gsp to spread - and all the corals look small and dull. Of course the sheets of cyno is irritating the whole tank as well...

It just seems so strange that a tank with no sump, no fuge and just a few hobs could not have nitrate or phosphate - but it's been an issue from the end of cycle
Mines 65g DT and 15g sump and I feed heavy and still had bottomed out my nitrates and phosphate some months back and I was only running a skimmer and a bag of carbon. This caused all kinds of algae problems but when I got those numbers up you could just see the difference in the tank with water clarity and coral health. Everything came alive and the bad stuff went away albeit slowly over months. Now I'm struggling a little with slightly elevated levels but everything looks good so I'm not reacting to it really. I'm trying a more natural approach with the fuge and probiotics bacteria to see if I can lower my numbers a bit.
 
Mines 65g DT and 15g sump and I feed heavy and still had bottomed out my nitrates and phosphate some months back and I was only running a skimmer and a bag of carbon. This caused all kinds of algae problems but when I got those numbers up you could just see the difference in the tank with water clarity and coral health. Everything came alive and the bad stuff went away albeit slowly over months. Now I'm struggling a little with slightly elevated levels but everything looks good so I'm not reacting to it really. I'm trying a more natural approach with the fuge and probiotics bacteria to see if I can lower my numbers a bit.
 
Its cyano
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
With only two clownfish and only spot feeding the lps, the first thing I tried to do was increase feedings.

In fact the day after I dose the whole tank with reef roids is the only time I can detect any colour change in the phosphate test - but the day after its always at zero again.

After I get the Brightwell products I'm going to see where dosing gets me. I'll just make sure and check with another brand of nitrate test first.

Really looking forward to a happier tank.
 
Just an update. I'm still waiting on my Brightwell nitrate and phospate products via mail order, along with the nyos nitrate test and hanna ULR phospate checker to confirm my salifert readings.

I've also been dosing 3.2ml of peroxide 3% every night. (Tank is a 36 gallon bowfront) the only effect I've seen on the inhabitants is that the zoas close and Florida rics shrink a bit for thirty minutes or so after dosing. I haven't noticed the cyno recede by much if at all.

After flake feedings and heavy reef roid feedings I'm managing to see a colour change on the salifert nitrate test - and it's just barely a colour change, I can see a slight pink haze that I take to mean my nitrates are just above zero. Phospates are still firmly at zero according the salifert test.

I'm going to manually try and remove as much cyno as I can this weekend and do a 50% water change. I plan to also toothbrush as much of it off of the rockwork as I can. (I have some epoxy work to do in the top 1/3 of the tank as well so I will be moving the rockwork anyway.

I've also been running only blues for about 8 hours per day.

Any feedback on my course of action so far?

Also- is the cyno a result of my nitrate and phospate bottoming out or is the cyano literally using up all of the available nitrate and phospate in the water column? I'm trying to understand the process. For example- when I dose nitrate and phospate will the cyno simply absorb it to make more cyano? This might be over simplistic lol

Thanks for the feedback - you guys are great!
 
Last edited:
Well I received the nyos nitrate kit and the Brightwell products - getting a 1ppm on the nyos scale.

Waiting on the Hanna ULR but unsure if to dose or not.

Any thoughts or opinions?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top