Thoughts on this QT Protocol

SaracensRugby

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So, I was recently burned by brook and lost roughly 14 fish, so anything going in my 315 needs to be free and clear. Thoughts on the below process?

1. Utilize TTM, with a Reef Rally Pro 45 minute bath in between two of the transfers.
2. Dose prazi towards the end of 2 different transfers to give 24 hour exposure before moving on to next transfer.
3. Watch in QT tank for 2 weeks post TTM, with introduction of new black mollies at the start of week 2 to ensure all clear.

That cover it all? What am I missing?
 
So, I was recently burned by brook and lost roughly 14 fish, so anything going in my 315 needs to be free and clear. Thoughts on the below process?

1. Utilize TTM, with a Reef Rally Pro 45 minute bath in between two of the transfers.
2. Dose prazi towards the end of 2 different transfers to give 24 hour exposure before moving on to next transfer.
3. Watch in QT tank for 2 weeks post TTM, with introduction of new black mollies at the start of week 2 to ensure all clear.

That cover it all? What am I missing?

Are you positive you lost those fish to Brooklynella? Brook is typically restricted to clownfish, and then, usually with new wild caught clownfish.

TTM is not effective against Brooklynella, and even the addition of Rally Pro doesn't make it much better.
I don't use black mollies as indicators - this seems like a cool idea, but it only works for calling out Cryptocaryon, and there are some drawbacks to this technique (introducing euryhaline trematodes, for example).

Our current quarantine protocol is here: (but it isn't designed to control Brook)


Jay
 
I agree with @Jay Hemdal - Curious why you think its brooklynella?

Did all of your fish die? Did they have any other symptoms, etc?

Just to be clear - If all of your fish died, I would use the QT protocol that Jay outlined. If some of your fish still are alive, I would use a hospital tank approach based on what the exact diagnosis is.

No offense - since you asked - I do not think your current protocol in your OP would be any more effective than just observation alone. Prazipro is not normally dosed for a 24 hour period, The protocol above is designed to take care of MOST of the common pathogens that might come into your tank. The durations of the treatments, and the treatments used were designed based on known life cycles. etc. If I were you I would not try to 'reinvent the wheel'.

Lastly, you have a big tank, and I assume larger expensive fish, etc. So sorry that you have to go through this!!
 
So I had posted pics in this forum, and Jay and others best guess was brook. First time I dealt with it so wasn't sure. Part of the method above, came from what I read on another site that discusses all things fish disease. I have read that the fish losses tend to be fairly high when treating with copper, so looking for the easiest way to deal with ich, while treating for other diseases as well. Thanks for the feedback so far, and for sending the link above.
 
So I had posted pics in this forum, and Jay and others best guess was brook. First time I dealt with it so wasn't sure. Part of the method above, came from what I read on another site that discusses all things fish disease. I have read that the fish losses tend to be fairly high when treating with copper, so looking for the easiest way to deal with ich, while treating for other diseases as well. Thanks for the feedback so far, and for sending the link above.
If one uses copper - it has to be done very strictly - i.e. following levels, making sure the proper product (ionic vs other types) levels are being measured, Some people would suggest that copper can affect the immune system - and other organs - which may show up 'over time'. I'm not sure there has ever been any kind of controlled study comparing longevity after copper - but your comment reminds me that I wanted to look that up again.

One of the main reasons people fail with QT (medication) -is that they do not follow directions absolutely to the letter (i.e. - they do not know the actual water volume in their tank, etc).

You're welcome for the feedback:)
 
Good to know on fish loses ie following directions. Given that A. I have all of the treatments on hand now, and B. I am recently scarred from losing so many fish, I will follow the recipe to the T. I have both copper power and cupramine, as well as a hannah checker for copper (for copper power). There are 50 ways to skin a cat it seems in this hobby, but I want to make sure I am reducing risk. 1st time shame on you, 2nd time shame on me. :)
 
@Jay Hemdal and @MnFish1 , question for you both. I am trying to learn, not challenge here. What is the weakness of the TTM for ich, relative to your procedure sent above?
Thanks in advance!
 
@Jay Hemdal and @MnFish1 , question for you both. I am trying to learn, not challenge here. What is the weakness of the TTM for ich, relative to your procedure sent above?
Thanks in advance!
There is the increased stress from moving the fish, plus the potential ammonia issues. Then, you need a clean tank to move the fish to for two weeks to ensure it worked. For me though, the deal killer is that it does not help against flukes and velvet.
Jay
 
Good to know on fish loses ie following directions. Given that A. I have all of the treatments on hand now, and B. I am recently scarred from losing so many fish, I will follow the recipe to the T. I have both copper power and cupramine, as well as a hannah checker for copper (for copper power). There are 50 ways to skin a cat it seems in this hobby, but I want to make sure I am reducing risk. 1st time shame on you, 2nd time shame on me. :)
just a comment - do not mix copper power and cupramine. they are not equivalent
There is the increased stress from moving the fish, plus the potential ammonia issues. Then, you need a clean tank to move the fish to for two weeks to ensure it worked. For me though, the deal killer is that it does not help against flukes and velvet.
Jay
He covered it:).
 

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