ticked off euphyllia

[Protodad]

Quick question. I have a torch and a hammer that have thrived over the last 6-12 months. Over the last 2 weeks they have both pulled back slowly and now you can see individual heads. They come back a little and then go back.

They are my only euphyllia in the tank but my chalice, zoas and mushrooms all look great.

Nitrate - 0 (Hanna HR, low but likely not zero)
Phos - 1.24 (turned up my GFO, it’s coming down
Salinity - 1.026
Alk - 10.4
Calc - 460


None of these are far off from what my tank has been since the tank was set up.
I wonder if my fish are bugging them. I started feeding in that area and I’m contemplating feeding more as my nitrates are so low.

Also, I’m surprised anything can affect the torch. It sat face down in the sand in an old tank for far too long. It maybe had half a head 6 months ago. It has 6 now.

 

[Glenner’sreef]

Yes. Phosphates and Alk are both a bit high. Chalices can be real aggressors when it comes to stinging other nearby corals, whether that be your Euphillia or other softies that will then in turn send out toxins. Toxins can’t be seen or test for. But they definitely can have adverse affects on neighboring corals.

 

[blaxsun]

Hard to say without any images, but coral warfare and water parameters could be underlying issues. Definitely get the phosphates down.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Phos is likely your issue. Alk in range (8-11) . There a few things to know when it comes to any euphyllia care. Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
I asked about age of tank because hammer and other euphyllia require STABLE conditions. New tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Location as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Hammer is Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
For torch, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including a temperature around 78 degrees, a specific gravity of about 1.025, ph of about 8.2, and a calcium level of about 400 ppm. Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.

 

[Protodad]

Yes. Phosphates and Alk are both a bit high. Chalices can be real aggressors when it comes to stinging other nearby corals, whether that be your Euphillia or other softies that will then in turn send out toxins. Toxins can’t be seen or test for. But they definitely can have adverse affects on neighboring corals.

They are a good 10” away. I’ve never seen warfare at that distance.

 

[Protodad]

Phos is likely your issue. Alk in range (8-11) . There a few things to know when it comes to any euphyllia care. Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
I asked about age of tank because hammer and other euphyllia require STABLE conditions. New tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Location as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Hammer is Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
For torch, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including a temperature around 78 degrees, a specific gravity of about 1.025, ph of about 8.2, and a calcium level of about 400 ppm. Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.

I’ve had the torch for a good 18 months, much of its life in a tank with far poorer conditions than it has now, the hammer for 6+ months. I’ve also had many euphyllia over the last 15+ years. I never would consider them a challenging coral to keep.

 

[Protodad]

Hard to say without any images, but coral warfare and water parameters could be underlying issues. Definitely get the phosphates down.

Looks like my GFO wasn’t tumbling at all. I cranked it up.

 

[blaxsun]

Looks like my GFO wasn’t tumbling at all. I cranked it up.

It's not supposed to tumble, btw. You want flow through it but no tumble. Tumbling will just break it down and end up getting through the sponge into the tank.

 

[Protodad]

It's not supposed to tumble, btw. You want flow through it but no tumble. Tumbling will just break it down and end up getting through the sponge into the tank.

It wasn’t moving at all. I broke it up so it moves (simmers). Carbon you iFIT want just flow but GFO needs some movement to keep from clumping.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’ve had the torch for a good 18 months, much of its life in a tank with far poorer conditions than it has now, the hammer for 6+ months. I’ve also had many euphyllia over the last 15+ years. I never would consider them a challenging coral to keep.

Stated- they can be challenging especially torch
I’ve been doing this 36 years and seen euphyllia challenge the most experienced hobbyists
They have requirements many hobbyist do not meet especially with basics such as skeletal care(calcium), light and water flow it’s a general belief you have to blast torch and is not the case

 

[Lavey29]

You already got some good reply info that I agree with. 0 nitrates is bad for coral. High phosphate can also have an impact or cause nuisance algae. Even though you have had these for months they can slowly be deteriorating during that time and then reach a receding point like now.

How about water changes? This is what maintains your trace elements also.

Did you change lighting at all?

 

[Protodad]

You already got some good reply info that I agree with. 0 nitrates is bad for coral. High phosphate can also have an impact or cause nuisance algae. Even though you have had these for months they can slowly be deteriorating during that time and then reach a receding point like now.

How about water changes? This is what maintains your trace elements also.

Did you change lighting at all?

No lighting changes. Planning to do water change this weekend. I usually do 20% every couple weeks. Working on setting up a salt mix station to make it easier.

 

[DrZoidburg]

I see here maybe they don't like something like the alk, light, or flow. Don't rule out something bacteria, and zero anything is not good. l. A picture says 1000+ words.