Tiny organisms in my tank!

[jeremyg]

Ph is very low. I don't even think it should be this low for a saltwater. Ph should be 8.0-8.4, ideally 8.3.

Tested with my pool PH test kit and that's showing ~8.2

 

[WheatToast]

Thanks everyone…(nonexistent) crisis averted!

No problem!
For hitchhiker identification, this is the place to go:
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/hitchhiker-critter-id.895/

Ok the tank is just over 2 years old. I only have some API test strips.

Sorry, I mentioned in an earlier post, this is a fish-only tank (~170 gallons). Could be these test strips are not accurate. Can I use a PH test from my pool?

Test strips are said to be more inaccurate compared to other testing methods compared to drip test, Hanna checkers, etc. Not sure if the pool test would work properly.

 

[lulubap]

Tested with my pool PH test kit and that's showing ~8.2

Ok, that's much more reasonable, but I'd recommend upgrading your tests. Like @WheatToast said, get a hanna checker or other non-test strip test. They seem to be less of a headache.

I'm not well versed on IO salt, but I can't see the labels giving any detailed parameters that aren't salinity (which I wouldn't worry about since you don't have a reef)

Also, API tends to be frowned upon by reefers due to large margins between measurements and overall inaccuracies. If you would like test strips, I'd recommend salifert or red sea. Haven't heard many complaints about them.

Other than that ph scare (seriously, I was amazed at how your fish were surviving), your parameters aren't bad for a fowlr. Nothing crazy going on, just some fish living their life.

Best of luck.

 

[Lavey29]

I view it like this. You have copepods all over your glass during daylight hours where they are easy targets for fish. They should be hiding in the rocks and sand and come out at night. Why are they out? Is the cloudy water an algae bloom and they are feeding on the glass film algae? Is there an imbalance in their environment forcing them out as a last ditch survival effort? Its not normal pod behavior in daylight hours. The low salinity of a fowler tank can explain some of your other low numbers but what is causing the cloudy water? Did you dose anything?

 

[jeremyg]

I view it like this. You have copepods all over your glass during daylight hours where they are easy targets for fish. They should be hiding in the rocks and sand and come out at night. Why are they out? Is the cloudy water an algae bloom and they are feeding on the glass film algae? Is there an imbalance in their environment forcing them out as a last ditch survival effort? Its not normal pod behavior in daylight hours. The low salinity of a fowler tank can explain some of your other low numbers but what is causing the cloudy water? Did you dose anything?

I have not dosed anything. I recently started some new foods (Formula 2 flakes, freeze dried mysis shrimp, and purple seaweed on a clip) which may have caused some extra dirtiness. I am waiting on some additional frozen foods from my local supplier (apparently my Hippo Tangs have HLLE and need better nutrition).

I did a 20% water change on Sunday, and hosed off the 2 powerheads which release a lot of junk. I have an aquaclear powerhead/filter as well which got loaded up quickly and I didn't realize, so the water got pretty cloudy after that. Changed the filter pad in the aquaclear and it's been clearing up since, but still a bit cloudy.

Should I do another water change? I was planning to change the aquaclear filter pad again in a day or so to make sure all the junk is out.

 

[jeremyg]

Not sure this picture helps but here it is just in case:

 

[bxclent]

This is a fish-only saltwater aquarium. 170 gallons. Water is a bit cloudier than usual.

Ammonia <.02
Ph 7.2
Nitirate / nitrite 0

Copods.... don't worry, be happy

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok well I just reported what this is showing. Is this measurable ammonia?

These to me are innacurate and also apply to fereshwater making it less reliable. These stay in water full time whereas strips have to be removed in 1-2 minutes also queationing reliability.
I will never trust a badge, test strip kit or $24 master kit to sustain a few hundred in fish and coral.
0.25 is considered an industry maximum allowable

 

[jeremyg]

These to me are innacurate and also apply to fereshwater making it less reliable. These stay in water full time whereas strips have to be removed in 1-2 minutes also queationing reliability.
I will never trust a badge, test strip kit or $24 master kit to sustain a few hundred in fish and coral.
0.25 is considered an industry maximum allowable

Being a fish-only tank, I was basically taught to "not worry unless something looks off" and not bother testing the water unless there is a reason to suspect an issue. I have pretty much only monitored the temp (with heater and fan connected to a controller) and salinity (when doing water changes).

 

[Lavey29]

I have not dosed anything. I recently started some new foods (Formula 2 flakes, freeze dried mysis shrimp, and purple seaweed on a clip) which may have caused some extra dirtiness. I am waiting on some additional frozen foods from my local supplier (apparently my Hippo Tangs have HLLE and need better nutrition).

I did a 20% water change on Sunday, and hosed off the 2 powerheads which release a lot of junk. I have an aquaclear powerhead/filter as well which got loaded up quickly and I didn't realize, so the water got pretty cloudy after that. Changed the filter pad in the aquaclear and it's been clearing up since, but still a bit cloudy.

Should I do another water change? I was planning to change the aquaclear filter pad again in a day or so to make sure all the junk is out.

Seems like you have identified some of your maintenance issues and are correcting them. Hopefully that clears it up for you but as others mentioned with a nice tank and fish get some good test kits to help you monitor your tank environment...good luck

Curious though how do you think copepods got into your tank? Hitchhiker on a fish? Most of us seed the tak with them.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Being a fish-only tank, I was basically taught to "not worry unless something looks off" and not bother testing the water unless there is a reason to suspect an issue. I have pretty much only monitored the temp (with heater and fan connected to a controller) and salinity (when doing water changes).

A tank not yet matured must be tested. . . you will not want to wwait until a problem arises , but rather stay ahead of it. Fish dont talk, Test kits Do.
You will go through a series of spikes and chemistry changes until the tank matures and is deemed stable. At least a weeklt test is essential and sooner if Yes, something is off, or loss of fish.

 

[jeremyg]

A tank not yet matured must be tested. . . you will not want to wwait until a problem arises , but rather stay ahead of it. Fish dont talk, Test kits Do.
You will go through a series of spikes and chemistry changes until the tank matures and is deemed stable. At least a weeklt test is essential and sooner if Yes, something is off, or loss of fish.

This tank has been setup for 26 months now. At what point is it "mature"?

I did a quick search of the forums for test kit recommendations and got many differing options. What would you recommend for a 2+ year old fish-only tank?

 

[wonroc]

BURN THE TANK IMMEDIATELY

 

[vetteguy53081]

This tank has been setup for 26 months now. At what point is it "mature"?

I did a quick search of the forums for test kit recommendations and got many differing options. What would you recommend for a 2+ year old fish-only tank?

I was under assumption newer tank. . . LOL
Tank is qite mature and as for kits, hanna and salifert are known reliable

 

[jeremyg]

BURN THE TANK IMMEDIATELY

at this point I think I’ve embarrassed myself enough and we should burn this thread.

 

[Lavey29]

at this point I think I’ve embarrassed myself enough and we should burn this thread.

Nay there's no shame in your reefing game. Your tank looks great. Love the full canopy open peninsula design.

 

[jeremyg]

Nay there's no shame in your reefing game. Your tank looks great. Love the full canopy open peninsula design.

Thanks! We definitely love the tank so far.

I've been thinking of removing (some of) the decorations and adding some dry rock, but not sure if it's worthwhile.

 

[jeremyg]

Tank is qite mature and as for kits, hanna and salifert are known reliable

What tests would I need for occasional use in a fish-only tank? It seems ammonia isn't needed unless cycling. And calcium (and alkalinity?) shouldn't matter with no corals.

 

[Lavey29]

Thanks! We definitely love the tank so far.

I've been thinking of removing (some of) the decorations and adding some dry rock, but not sure if it's worthwhile.

Would look more natural.

 

[vetteguy53081]

What tests would I need for occasional use in a fish-only tank? It seems ammonia isn't needed unless cycling. And calcium (and alkalinity?) shouldn't matter with no corals.

Ammonai-nitrate=ph
Ammonia readings that are higher than .025 can lead to a higher pH level which will cause ammonia gas which can be deadly to fish. This is often reduced by beneficial bacteria but when levels climb, you dont know until it may be too late, hence reason for monitoring ammonia levels.
With regular water changes, you reduce chances of ammonia levels rising to toxic levels but does not gurantee you have none present due to biological waste